New spiders from sbp

[Pablo]

Now you can trim weight from your bike with alternatives to heavier steel chainring discs, by using your favorite chainring and a new lightweight spider that mates to our freewheels.

The spiders are made from AL 6061-T6, an "aircraft" grade aluminum alloy with high tensile and yield strength and superior resistance to corrosion. At 4.8mm thick they are strong and resilient yet still save well over half the weight of an equivalent size steel chainring disc. They fit onto our flanged crankset freewheels, attached through one of two sets of five holes in the spiders. One set of holes handles countersunk screws, especially for spiders set on the outside of the freewheel flange. The other set of holes handles any standard flat-bottom machine or cap screw.

For some builds you are going to want our low cost steel chainring, but for many setups you want a different look and lower weight.

We are making them available in the most common sizes for all styles of cycling.


· The 4-arm 104mm BCD (Bolt Circle Diameter) spider mates with virtually all MTB chainrings and those on many city bikes. Only 54 grams, less than 2 ounces.


· The 5-arm 110mm BCD spider is compatible with many city, road and cyclocross chainrings. 70 grams, 2.5 ounces.


· The 5-arm 130mm BCD spider is compatible with serious road chainrings. 84 grams, still less than 3 ounces.

http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23&products_id=163

http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23&products_id=164

http://www.sickbikeparts.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23&products_id=165

 

[Fabian]

Does that mean i can get rid of the 36T sprocket which currently drives my rear cassette and replace it with a larger 38T or 40T or 42T sprocket.
Having said that, my preference is to ditch the full steel 36T and replace it with a full steel 40T.

I'm not convinced that the flimsy aluminium mountain bike sprockets will take the punishing torque dished out by the 9T and 48T jackshaft sprockets.
That said, my preference is to ditch the 48T sprocket and replace it with a full steel 54T sprocket; of which both of the above combinations are not available through SBP and aluminium mountain bike sprockets would be my last choice of material.

 

[Pablo]

Those sound like the trade-offs.

 

[Fabian]

Not when you run a quad front chain ring setup with a low range 24T sprocket

Similar top speed but with more heavy duty hill climbing power.

 

[Fabian]

Is there any chance of SBP designing a set of left and right hand side chain tensioners for the shift kit because i've been asked more than once to make a copy of my chain tensioners.
Some people have had enough of constantly f*&king around with the chain tension.

My preference is for the manufacturer to make a properly engineered and integrated set of chain tensioners for their product.

 

[Pablo]

Sorta :OT:
You shouldn't need a tensioner for the left side. Properly shimmed it works fine. I can see a small minority of people, especially with aluminum frames, needing a chain tensioner for the right side. A contact chain tensioner is not a desirable thing.

 

[Fabian]

I agree that it's OT, but it needs to be said, going by the amount of people wanting replicas of my left and right side chain tensioners.

Shims are useless when the chain is tight as a drum at a specific point in the rotation of the output sprocket and looser than a hard working call girl 180 degrees later. This causes vibration which is reduced significantly with a chain tensioner, because the chain isn't flapping about like a tea party supporter.

A right hand side chain tensioner is "vital" especially when riding in harsh conditions when dust, mud or sand are being thrown at the jackshaft chain, causing it to stretch at a rapid rate, which requires stops every 10 minutes to take up the chain slack with the threaded tensioner. I've had chain stretch go from 25% to 80% in 3 hours of riding. It would have been 10 hours of riding if faffing about adjusting the threaded chain tensioner every 30 seconds.

It's easy to make the problem go away: design and offer SBP engineered chain tensioners as an optional accessory.

That said, i still say that the Sick Bike Parts shift kit is the best thing since sliced bread. If it wasn't, it wouldn't be on my bike.

 

[Pablo]

Thanks - let's also agree you are definitely above average on all accounts:

Yes we are looking into several options including a SBP engineered chain tensioner, but for the majority of users it simply won't be a necessity.

 

[Fabian]

Awesome. How far away is the SickBikeParts engineered chain tensioner???

I just want one or maybe two if they come in left and right side versions

Now i don't have to bother sending my chain tensioners to an engineer to get them professionally reproduced for others wanting replicas of my chain tensioner designs.

SickBikeParts has full authorisation to reproduce my designs or concepts if it's the best option.

 

[bobo333]

i havnt had any trouble with my right side chain coming loose after the first 30 mins or so of riding, it seems to have stretched to a certain point then stayed there nicely, ive put probably 2-3 hours on it since the last adjustment (obviously nowhere near the loads your putting on it though Fabian)

The left side is much more difficult to tension though so a spring loaded tensioner on the left is what il be making soon as it has stretched quite loose (not as bad as the left did though because the chain is so short)

Back on topic those Alloy spiders look great, not really necessary on my current build but if i do another build thats more concentrated on weight and/or speed is definitely purchase them