New Staton axle mounted kits

I have communicated with staton-inc.com and they to me have told that the shaft is truncated specially since the standard shaft with clutch drum didn't approach for Honda GXH50. They had to put another clutch drum and other shaft.
 
I too so consider. I have found out in more details:
This reducer 5:1 in standard execution doesn't approach for Honda gxh50 because of a thick shaft of a reducer (it awakes to touch clutch) - staton have changed a shaft and clath drum. This pinion gear has appeared too long for gear box - therefore they had to cut off the superfluous. Therefore the shaft sits on one bearing. It will reduce reliability.

If I foreknew these details, I wouldn't buy a reducer.
Now I do not know what to do.
It is possible to buy standard clath drum, a shaft and to use with small engines as Honda gx 35.
 
It seems a very efficient way to mount a motor and the short drive chain has got to be better.
I have a problems with it-
#1- vulnerability to impact damage. how many of us have snapped off the rear derailleur? that's why most high end frames have replaceable derailleur tabs.
Id have to rig some sort of bash bar that attaches to the frame to take the hit first.(these things aren't built for impact and they aren't cheap)
#2- Main weight imbalance. My first "purchased" kit was a 31cc Honda 4 stoke island hopper rack type friction system, it was also mounted on the left, these suckers are heavy and i noticed quite a bit of left side weight bias as i was riding, it was most noticeable when changing directions fast.
I solved the problem by mounting one of those small 1 gall. gas cans on the right side of the rack with a hand made alum. strap bracket system.
(when full) the weight of the fuel equaled out the weight of the motor and BINGO!... my handling problem vanished, gradually returning as the fuel was used.
Not the perfect solution buy id say it was a small price to pay to solve.
I like the low mount, center of gravity is like a foot lower, now to figure out a bash bar and some kind of right side ballancer.
Id say go for it.
 
1 year update

Just thought I would give a one year update.

The gearbox is very normal sounding. I hear the sound of the motor over the gearbox.

It has turned into my now 16 year old son's ride. He puts 5+ miles a day on it. The set up is virtually maintence free. Everytime I ride my friction drive, I get jealous of the axle mount. The only negative is changing the tire or tube. If you get this set up, get a extra thick tube, fill it with slime and get kevlar tires or inserts.

If you are looking for consistent maintence free setup, this is the ticket.

I never did put the higher gear ratio on. Still sitting in my tool box if anybody wants to buy it. 28mph is fast enough for my son to go.
 
wow

thats cool !!! sounds like a good trouble free ride.. That's the most important thing to me is reliability !!!
My GEBE has been the same.. No prob.. Just jump on and go...
yea I did the bullet proof tire thing as well,because the GEBE is axel mount also...
 
Strotter,

Just curious, how far from the ground is the bottom of the gas tank on this unit. Can you measure how many inches it is?

I am intrigued by this axle mount.

Thanks
 
For a little over two months now I've been riding a Staton-inc axle-mounted kit using a Robin-Subaru 35cc (technically it's 33.5cc) 4-stroke engine and a 12 tooth sprocket on the gearbox (and a 60 tooth sprocket on the freewheel). I have some questions which I'd like to ask on this website but I don't know if I need to start a thread in order to do that and, if so, how to do that. Any suggestions? Basically, I want to know if any other hefty folks (250 lbs plus) have this particular kit with this particular engine and also have experience climbing steep hills using a 12 tooth, 11 tooth, or 10 tooth sprocket on the gearbox. With my current 12 tooth I can reach 25 mph on the flats without pedaling, but the engine bogs down too much on steeper hills, even when pedaling with the engine. So I'm wondering if I should get the 11 tooth or the 10 tooth sprocket for more hill climbing power? Or maybe I'm just too fat for a 33.5 cc engine? I'm also wondering what kind of hill climbing power a Grubee Skyhawk frame-mounted 48cc or 49cc 2-stroke happy-time engine has, for example. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks.
 
you have to go to a smaller sprocket - probably a 10 for you weight -i went to 11- the Subaru that i had could beat the 50cc happy time because its 4 cycle it can really lug low- but i had street tires he had trail tires
 
Thanks, robin bird, for your reply. But what do you mean your Subaru could beat a 50cc happy time? Do you mean the top end speed on the flats or do you mean the top end speed climbing a hill? And what do you mean by a 4 cycle can "really lug low"? Does that mean a 4 cycle has more torque than a 2 cycle &/or more climbing power on hills? Thanks.
 
Back
Top