Chains Newbie! Can't even tension chain!

taylormade93

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Dec 21, 2014
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How you going guys,

I'm a complete newbie to the motorized bicycle game. I got my bike yesterday (already built) and when I was riding today the bike suddenly cut out and tire did a loud screech. At first I was confused and had no idea what happened.

However it appears that the chain got jammed up the top area (not sure what it is called) so had to get it put in a maxi taxi to take it home as the back wheel would not move forwards or backwards. Now I believe I have re-aligned the chain but I HAVE NO IDEA HOW TO TIGHTEN THE CHAIN :confused::confused:

I don't think the chain on there is too long as the previous owner told me he never had a problem with the chain.

I really want to get back to riding this thing as I love it! So if I could get some advice that would be greatly appreciated.

Pictures are attached for reference.

Cheers 1.jpg2.jpg3.jpg4.jpg
 


If you don't have a bench grinder you can just file the pin down. You can also get a chain breaker tool from tractor supply, but they're a little pricey and you'll probably never use it again
 
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Is there a reason for why I would now need to shorten the chain if it was previously okay?

I don't have many tools at all at my place so was hoping it would be an easier fix.

So I need to take off chain from masterlink, then file down and punch it out and put it back on? actually sounds easy enough but is it necessary?

Cheers for the reply.
 
It sure does look as though you need to shorten it. The previous owner said all was okay there? I can't account for that. But that chain needs to be shortened. The slack is the reason that it jumped the sprocket and jammed up your rear wheel.

It's also possible that your axle slid forward a bit, contributing to the slack. But that wouldn't account for that much slack.

One thing that I would recommed, too, is shortening that engine chain until you can get it nice and tight without a chain tensioner at all on that side. Then you're liable to have trouble tensioning the pedal chain. The tensioner can be used there.

tensioner on pedal side.jpg

This takes a whole lot of stress off of that tensioner and makes your engine chain more reliable. By subtracting a source of trouble.

And you probably should resign yourself to keeping some more tools around and being ready to use them. These bikes are just great. But tinkering is a must. They demand it.

Best of luck.
 
yes you need a shorter chain when I first started reading this I assumed you were talking about the motor chain that chain does not belong to that bike that is clearly visible you should not need an idler pulley on the chain you pedal with the idler pulley or chain tensioner as so many people like to call it is there to guide band I just very slight amount some slack mainly its for guidance
 
yes you will have way too much slack you should move idler pulley closer to the motor and you may need to remove a link or two also on the idler pulley you can loosen that I noticed it was halfway up put it all the way up slide closer almost right next to the tire - mine is about 3 centimeters behind tire and it is in the all the way up position sometimes you need to bend themso they line up right
 
assuming it was reasonably tight when you got it, it won't get that loose unless the engine has come loose or the rear wheel has slid forward, or the tensioner has moved closer to the engine

first, be sure you cannot move the engine while holding it on top and holding frame near the gas tank

next, see if you can loosen the rear wheel & move it farther back in the dropouts

next, move the tensioner closer to the rear wheel, and then raise the pulley to a point at which chain is tight enough

if this doesn't do it, then something serious is going on so you might want to call the guy that built it
 
Thanks for the replies guys,

Firstly I went and checked the engine - there is A LOT of movement there, so I slide it back up closer to handlebars and that cut the amount of slack in half - but not sure where to tighten to keep engine steady? Also my exhaust fell off somewhere when riding yesterday would this contribute to the issue at hand?

Secondly, I couldn't really move the back wheel in the dropout, I got it to move maybe half an inch but didn't do much. I'm going to go play around with the tensioner and see if that will get rid off the remaining slack.

Lastly, even though I have unjammed the chain I can still not roll the wheel forwards or backwards??? The clutch isn't connected at the moment so that shouldn't really cause an issue right?

Cheers
 
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Thanks for the replies guys,

Firstly I went and checked the engine - there is A LOT of movement there, so I slide it back up closer to handlebars and that cut the amount of slack in half - but not sure where to tighten to keep engine steady? Also my exhaust fell off somewhere when riding yesterday would this contribute to the issue at hand?

Secondly, I couldn't really move the back wheel in the dropout, I got it to move maybe half an inch but didn't do much. I'm going to go play around with the tensioner and see if that will get rid off the remaining slack.

Lastly, even though I have unjammed the chain I can still not move the wheel forwards or backwards??? The clutch isn't connected at the moment so that shouldn't really cause an issue right?

Cheers
You have to get your engine mounted so tight you can't move it no matter how hard you try.
You can get to making the chain right after that.

Your wheel doesn't spin even with no chain on it?
That is the grubee back wheel with a band brake or bearing problem, they have to be done right to work.

Hope that helps.
 
Update: Manage to move the engine even more towards handle bars and now their is minimum slack.

Is there just two bolts on the bottom for tightening the engine?

Chain is still on the bike but the wheel won't roll which is confusing. I can rotate it maybe a quarter turn forwards and backwards but that is it.
 
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