Chains newbie chain issue

Discussion in 'Transmission / Drivetrain' started by alpha, Feb 25, 2012.

  1. alpha

    alpha Member

    ok i have every thing mounted, but one i still have to much slack on the chain, so i need to shorten that and i have ruined a chain breaker doing so, or trying to.

    the other issue is even with the clutch depressed the engine is not letting the sproket move freely. is that due to the clutch being to tight and needing to be broken in?

    other than that i have installed a CNS carb and make a custom intake. everything seems to be holding up on it, i just wanna get the thing started...

    and this might not be an issue, but there is around an inch of fuel line on my system not including my fuel filter, so there is not much distance, is that ok as well?

  2. VROOM

    VROOM Member

    I always use a dremil to shorten my chains. Just grind the little nipple off and then open the link with a flat headed screwdriver.
    Im sure your short fuel line is fine.
    As for the clutch it sounds out of adjustment.
  3. alpha

    alpha Member

    ill have to try the dremel, as for the clutch how would i fix that

    there a linky for it
  4. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    yuo can just grind off the ends of the pins on the chain and remove as many links as yuo need.
    you'll just have to get a master link to put the chain back together.
    grind the heads of the pins off, and drive the pins out with a hammer and punch.
    remember that your master link will be "male" so both ends of the chain will need to be "female" for it to go back together.

    do you mean that when you have the clutch handle squeezed in, the rear wheel doesn;t want to turn when you roll the bike forward?
    if so, you need to adjust your clutch cable more.
    pull more cable through the clutch arm.
    when your clutch handle is squeezed in, you should not be able to move the clutch arm with your fingers...the clutch arm should feel tight.
    (the clutch arm on the left side of the engine that is). when your clutch handle is released you should be able to move the clutch arm back & forth easily with your fingers...the clutch arm should feel loose.
    when your clutch handle is squeezed in, you should be able to roll the bike forward and the rear wheel should turn easily...there will be a little resistance because of the drive chain, but it should roll easily.

    yes your fuel line will be fine. you may wnt to try getting a filter in it tho, and you may have to loop the line to make a filter fit.
    as long as it isn't kinked or pulled really tight, it'll be fine. you can get these really small in line fuel filters at autozone, which are for lawnmowers.
    if you need more fuel line, you can get a small roll of 1/4" clear fuel line from autozone as well, and it's also for lawnmowers.
    if you don't have an autozone nearby, any auto parts store should have's just 1/4" gas line.
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2012
  5. alpha

    alpha Member

    here is my set up

    clutch engaged

    clutch free

    it has a bit of slack when its engaged, and no slack when you pull the handle, still no free movement, wheel locks up, is the clutch just really really tight
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2012
  6. The_Inventor

    The_Inventor New Member

    The wheel should turn freely when you pull in the clutch. If it doesnt you will injure yourself or someone else. The clutch will wear as you use it overtime so it will need to be readjusted sometime in the future. It looks like the cable is nicely adjusted so you will have to adjust the flower nut. The flower nut is on the clutch disc which is behind the clutch cover. There should be a page on this forum telling you how to adjust it. Good luck
    Last edited: Feb 25, 2012
  7. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    if its a new engine, and you havent yet "cracked" it...

    the clutch jams up during storage. every one ive had has been stuck until first rolled... some more than others. then theyre fine. but trying to turn them over by hand when new is next to impossible. need that wheel on there!

    by the look of the cable everything is correct. cept you mislabelled them :p

    assuming you have tried to ride, with no improvement, then yes. youll need to peek under the covers and fiddle with the...flower nut. its a fairly descriptive name. pull the clutch in when you try turning it!
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2012
  8. alpha

    alpha Member

    i can turn the engine with the magneto bolt. witch in turn spins the output sprocket.

    i have not been able to ride due to not having the chain shortened. so once i do so ill try to get it free.

    i understand what the flower nut is, im not quite understanding what to do with it, if it spins with or without the clutch...
  9. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    yes the flower nut spins with the clutch. the flower nut is on the outside of the clutch pressure plate (if you remove the right side engine cover, you will see the flower nut in the center of the clutch pressure plate (which is towards the rear of the engine).
    you adjust the flower nut in or out, to give more or less clutch.
    it's an internal adjustment that allows you to make bigger adjustments than what you can do with the cable.
  10. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    how to unstick it without the chain.

    jam something in between the sprocket and case.

    take youre 14mm spanner on the magneto nut and turn it clockwise, whilst holding the clutch in.

    should crack fairly easily. turning anti clockwise will loosen the magneto nut...

    as mentioned by everyone...grind the chain shorter.

    a chain breaker is handy, but not necessary.

    it is a bit fiddly. you need to feed the chain through the engine, mark the chain, double check the mark! dont try to make the chain too tight! they can be run fairly loose without dramas. tight breaks things.

    its nice to wrap the chain with some waste rag before getting grinding dust all over it.
  11. alpha

    alpha Member

    so if i back the flower nut that should help. correct.

    i already broke a chain breaker already, so ill just cut a link and do a master link.

    thanks everyone for the help.
    i feel a bit stupid, im a car guy, and i can do anything to a car, but im afraid to break something. its only pop metal, very impressive for what that engine does
  12. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    if you screw the flower nut in, it will give you more clutch.
    if you screw it out, it will give you less clutch.
    so if your clutch is slipping, screw it in.
    if your clutch doesn't want to fully release, screw it out.
    this takes trial and error and a 1/4 turn makes a big difference.
    don't forget to put that set screw back in that locks the flower nut in position.
  13. alpha

    alpha Member

    makes sense to me. thanks for the help. ill have to play with that
  14. alpha

    alpha Member

    well i played around with some stuff. now the only thing i really need to get done is shorten the chain.

    at first when i was depressing the clutch handle the flower nut and pressure plate were not moving together. just the flower nut, so i desided to unbolt the flower nut and take the pressure plate off.

    so i took it off, and the pressure plate had to be gently pried off and it came off with a nice crisp "POP".

    it loked like this[​IMG]

    so it was stuck. the clutch fibers got stuck on the pressure plate. so i decided to clean up the plate. and put it back on and now the wheel moves.


    other than that here is the look of the clutch, everything is preaty new. never fired so soon to be running RAW Engine.

    Last edited: Feb 26, 2012
  15. The_Inventor

    The_Inventor New Member

    Just remember to ALWAYS adjust the clutch using the flower nut. NEVER use the cable to adjust it. Adjust the cable so it has just a little slack is good.
  16. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    yep, your clutch was stuck
    you want to have a little free play in your clutch lever when you make the adjustments.
  17. HeadSmess

    HeadSmess Well-Known Member

    at least i got that one right :) needed "cracking"

    freeplay... a standard figure is 10mm at the end of the lever, on the handlebars that is.

    about 5mm or less at the cable-nipple-brass-thing-that-makes-a-great-cable-cutter-but-not-much-of-an-adjustable-nipple-but-hey,-i-havent-got-anything-better... :p
  18. alpha

    alpha Member

    worked great thanks