Newbie, expands skills, pulls head bolts..sort of..

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by TYFOON, Jul 18, 2010.


    TYFOON Member

    So I pulled out my Park tools torque wrench today and threw it on the rear left head bolt (acorn bolts. I know I know!) and torqued to 10 ft/lbs. CREEK! bolt turned. My sphincter tightened and I panicked. I KNEW to change the head bolts. So I unturned it and the whole bolt came out. The bolt came loose. A good thing. I pulled it out and looked it over. Made the decision to get better nuts. Went to ACE and got all new 8x1.0 nuts and red loctite. Redid the all.

    Used the factory bolts but used better nuts so I can see what turns when I torque. + the red loctite. Thanks Ron.

    Torqued and letting it cure over night. All was on a cold motor.

    Plus I noted some oil on the top of the head. The spark plug was loose.

    I also found out the chain tensioner had pooooor hardware and nearly broke the roller nut. This is the cheap one with out barings. I ordered a tall HD good one on ebay today. going to replace that asap. Used epoxy to lock the bolts for screwing around but tomorrows maiden 12 mile journey to work for the first time is on hold.

    Thanks for letting me vent all,


    15 or so miles so far on the new ride.

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 18, 2010

  2. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Good nuts are no good without good studs. Nuts most likely a grade 8.8 but the studs are still **** and can stretch..go to a grade 5 (8.8 metric) anything over that is a waste and overkill.

    On these cases 6mm torque to 50-65 INCH pounds...8mm 150-200 INCH pounds, and red lock tite. I use 50 and 150..never a problem. Nice build..very sharp.
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2010