Newly installed, but need help

[Keepthedrivetommy]

Hi all,
I just finished puting everything together last night, but I am very nervous. I still dont know if I am doing things completely right. I went to the gas station and got 93 octane gas, mixed one gallon of it with 7 ounces of 2 stroke oil, penzoil, and then I put some in, started pedaling and engaged the clutch. The engine kicked in, but wasnt actually helping me move, I had to continue pedaling or the bike would stop and the engine sounded like it would die. Also, I had the throttle going as much as it would twist, but the engine still didnt sound like it was working that hard. The thing I am very confused about is all the switches. There are two. One that says fuel and is on the filter that goes directly into the gas tank, this is the DAX kit, and there is a switch on the Carb. There also is a little screw on the carb with a spring. What do all three of these things do, and when do I use them, or not use them? Like for instance, when I am riding the bike, which way should the switches be turned, and when I am not riding it, when it is sitting in my garage, how should the switches be. And does it sound like I need to tighten something on the throttle? Or during the breakin period, is it just that the bike cant go very fast? I really dont want to mess up the engine.

 

[Patch]

well, to start...7ounces in a gal is alittle too much oil. I like 6.4 ounces and thats still very generous on the oil.

Second, the lever on the carb (next to the black intake cover) is the choke. You use this to get more or less gas into the chamber. For starting, have the lever all the way up (closed choke) and start pedaling like crazy and slowly let the lever down (once the clutch is out). Once you here the engine start to pop keep the lever there for a while. ONce she's running, let it down alittle more until she's warmed up. Then you can let it down all the way (5-10mins in warm up)

the valve lever on the tank is the fuel valve. This allows gas to the engine. If the lever points with the fuel line, it is on. If it's perpendicular (pointing AT it), it is off.


The skrew with the spring is the idle adjusting screw. If when at a stop, the engine seems to be reving really high or to slow...adjust the skrew in or out to increase or decrease the RPMS accordingly.


When sitting in the garage, your fuel valve should be off (pointing at the line) choke can be where ever, and the idle adjuster should be where it was running best on the last run (for easy starting)

Well that's all you need and MORE
PS keep at it- mine took for ever to start just keep pedaling around and mess with the choke (make sure fuel vlave is on)for a long time and she'll start at some setting

 

[gone_fishin]

i think you should take a minute to read thru the forum
there's good info here for you at this stage, keep us posted on how it goes

 

[Guest]

Tommy- I'd run what you mixed, then go to 32 or 36 to 1 mixture after that.

As for the engine not starting up right away, after you run it for a half hour it will get A LOT better. Just play with the choke setting as each engine is a little different depending on your altitude, weather, ect.

For me- push the button on the left side of the carb for 2 seconds, use 3/4 choke and when I let the clutch out I have to open the throttle just a crack. Then once it starts to fire, I turn the choke off about halfway and run it until it's warm.


You will get used to the right hand on the throttle, left hand reaching across/down to the choke lever routine.

 

[Keepthedrivetommy]

Here is the other thing that I was concerned about. The throttle does not spring back to its original position when I let go of it, as though something in it is too tight. So if I turn the throttle all the way up, which doesnt actually help move the bike, and I am afraid that I might not be properly breaking in the motor, the throttle stays at that position and I have to turn it back down. Is that normal? Also, when I disengage the clutch, the motor dies, rather than idling, but maybe that is normal for a new motor?

 

[SlicerDicer]

Tommy what I did was tear apart the throttle you will end up with a plastic shaft. Insert the plastic shaft over the bicycle handle bar till you find the rubbing point. Once you locate this you can file/grind that area down just a smidge. The throttle will spring back without issue

Its just a snug fit and by grinding it as I did made it less snug and allowed it to rotate freely.

 

[JosephGarcia]

Tommy what I did was tear apart the throttle you will end up with a plastic shaft. Insert the plastic shaft over the bicycle handle bar till you find the rubbing point. Once you locate this you can file/grind that area down just a smidge. The throttle will spring back without issue

Its just a snug fit and by grinding it as I did made it less snug and allowed it to rotate freely.

Also use a small bit of grease, I have a very light coat of lithium grease on mine. it just makes the twist feel alot smoother.

I haven't found any reasons not to use grease if there are let me know so I can edit this message from false info.

 

[SlicerDicer]

I dont know about grease but the grinding was a obvious choice for me. It was right at the end of the plastic tube where it inserts over the handlebar. I just took a knife and ran it around the plastic sheath once and it was golden. I did not have a need for grease or anything.

I suppose both methods would work. I live in a area where there is metric tons of dust and sand so anything exposed to air is going to get dust thats another reason for greaseless if possible.

 

[go you good thing]

I use a bit of graphite powder on mine.

Works well and is not 'wet' so will not clog with dirt n dust.

 

[SlicerDicer]

Graphite is dangerous...

http://www.jtbaker.com/msds/englishhtml/g8122.htm

I am leery of the stuff myself I use it for some purposes but its highly limited.