Karl Snarl
Well-Known Member
I'd love to see what you are doing to them. I think it would solve my problem. I've done pretty much every thing else i can, minus backing off the timing. The only place I can find a big enough schematic of jags, the pic is all blurry so i cant get a parts number or value off any of the electronics. The wires and jumpers are easy to see but the parts values are so blurry i cant read them. I'd like to chat at ya about how you did your cdi, if your down sometime.5 degrees works well, as rpm climb unfortunately so does the advance. I've built a timing rig using an old bottom end, crank with no rod that has been statically balanced and the stock magneto. When this is spun up driving the clutch shaft I only need 2,500 rpm to get 10k at the crank being a 4:1 ratio and this is achieved easily just with a drill, then with spark strength tester attached along with two stroke timing light and a degree wheel attached to the crank shows me the advance or curve through out the rpm range. I making a video of this unit testing and showing the commonly used cdi's it's just a matter of finding the time. The adjustable cdi schematics that are out there like Jags still need some refining for high performance use, and if your good with electronics there are very good cheap options Like my current go to is using the super charged cdi that can be found for 20 bucks and I have it reworked at a cost of 15 bucks and the end results are base timing 15 degrees btdc rather than 20-25 and peak rpm is 15-18 rather than 28-32 mind you this is in conjunction of 4-5 degrees on the crank, this has been the most cost efficient way for me so far and people love it, helps smooth out the upper rpm range so it saves engines and rides better.
Your way seems a more affordable way to reach the same end. An id like to see your set up on the timing of them. Im kinda stumped on how to see where im at on these. Lol. My truck i just bang bang and look at the spot as the crank goes around. . 4 strokes make it so easy.