no low end torque after dremmaling the woodriff key on the magnito

[ben4221]

yeah ive doubled heaps with a 44 and 40 tooth sprocket any thing lower than that would hurt the motor id say, i tried with a 32tooth and it was never going to happen

 

[You need people like me.]

Okay I adjusted the timeing as close to stock as i could with the play that was there but the low end torque is back, but I think when i regapped the spark plug by tapping it down a little about the width of a finger nail when i looked that up google said a nail is .5mm i may have caused more issues. i have another ch7hs plug the one in now is c67hs i think and the colors nice and tan but lost of carbon build up from the cheap oil.

So its back to how i like it with the low end but its still bogging at almost full throttle. when i just open it up all the way when going mid speed it boggs then starts to speed up to top speed then starts bogging keeps doing this on the high end its drive able but it feels less smooth. Its fine during the low to mid range.

Some guidance would be much appreciated?
I made up my mind to use it as transportation and not for fun.

 

[Street Ryderz]

Okay I adjusted the timeing as close to stock as i could with the play that was there but the low end torque is back, but I think when i regapped the spark plug by tapping it down a little about the width of a finger i may have caused more issues. i have another ch7hs plug the one in now is c67hs i think and the colors nice and tan but lost of carbon build up from the cheap oil.

So its back to how i like it with the low end but its still bogging at almost full throttle. when i just open it up all the way when going mid speed it boggs then starts to speed up to top speed then starts bogging keeps doing this on the high end its drive able but it feels less smooth. Its fine during the low to mid range.

Some guidance would be much appreciated?
I made up my mind to use it as transportation and not for fun.

Now it will be the jetting that needs to be a bit leaner for full topend,go down 1 jet size at a time until desired performance is attained.

 

[Steve Best]

I've used a 12v timming light that has it's own power source (12v battery) on all the cdi's currently available.You've got it backwards since ALL performance 2t's have a retarded curve for the high side if the timming was advanced then as you said it will fire prior to the piston reaching tdc making detonation more likely and a big loss of power! ALL high rpm 2t's fire at close to 0 at 10k and above for this very reason.if you look at this!View attachment 85702

Excellent graph StreetRiderz! The reason for the rpm timing retard is because 2 strokes typically fill the cylinder much more efficiently with rpm, ESPECIALLY if there is a tuned pipe is involved. Low volumetric efficiency at low rpm calls for more timing advance, yet it needs to back off at rpm because the greater cylinder filling builds huge pressures and faster burn. The retarded spike under 1000rpm is to assist starting because 30 degrees advance would give bad kick-back.

Before 1970 most cars had vacuum advance to advance timing during low load (low cylinder filling) to improve fuel mileage and mid-range response. In the mid-70s some emissions related vacuum controls were installed on most engines including a timing retard, often along with the vacuum advance. Here is an example with vacuum lines on both sides of the diaphram:

 

[LewieBike]

Okay I'll do that I spent most of the day studding the tires and swapping the axles out so i can add peggs dose anyone know if it will be safe to ride with two will the engine over heat or? together were going to add up to about 300 pounds.

You'll probably destroy your rear wheel. bicycles are marginal for their strength with engine power as it is and you want to carry a passenger?

You need to get a real motorcycle.