No spark??

[junglepig]

Here is one more point of caution. I ordered a spare CDI through AliExpress. At the time I ordered, I was not aware of the two different "stock" CDI types. I received a "TZ" type CDI, which is what I wanted, BUT The photo in the listing is of an "SD" type. The one in the photo is marked "BT" on the bottom and has the plug and magneto wires exiting from the same side of the potting, rather than diagonally opposed as the larger "TZ" type.
So you don't necessarily get the part shown in the photos when you buy a generic part through eBay or AliExpress.
(The stator in the photo in my earlier post was from an Ebay seller in Houston. The photo showed the old 3-wire with lighting coil. I wanted the lighting coil. I contacted the seller, and he said they no longer had that style.)

Based on my recent experience ordering some parts, it seem like the TZ style parts are kind-of the default. The SD components are perhaps older and harder to acquire. But unless you have the 12:15 magnet, this should be OK. Does everyone reading this agree?

 

[Hell on Wheels]

I'm still a little confused about what you're trying to do with an additional wire to the plug base for grounding. Your plug threads are more than adequate for a good ground connection at the plug. Just be sure the engine has a good ground connection to the black wire of the magneto.

And avoid cranking the engine over without the plug wire connected. If there is no path to ground for the spark, it can damage your CDI.

In the absence of any testing, if all the connections look OK, I'd also suspect a fried CDI as the likely culprit.
A cheap stock CDI should make it run.

I'm confused too. My 2stroke 49cc is connected. Blue to green. Black to yellow. Why are you grounding a wire to your spark plug? Are you trying to run additional lighting?
First try connecting everything how its suppose to be. Get it started then customize your ground wire.
Starting issues most always electrical. Unless you cracked your engine somehow and without compression. Won't even fire.. It Will sound like an electrical issue..

Reason is I was unsure if the anodizing made grounding to the plug worse. I was trying anything to give the ignition the best shot at firing. AKA controlling variables.

 

[Hell on Wheels]

Interesting. I have a SD coil and magnet. Any known vendors or is it hit or miss?

 

[junglepig]

Interesting. I have a SD coil and magnet. Any known vendors or is it hit or miss?

Is that magnet compatible with the BBR Stage CDI then? Because it seems the timing would be way off unless there's a switch on it to tell it you have the differently keyed magnet. (Edit: I fired off an email to ask this at BikeBerry - If I get a response I'll let ya know - By the way, their set of product claims for this unit reads like snake oil. I sure as hell wouldn't be sold based on the stuff they say.)

Have you tried using your SD CDI instead of the BBR unit?

 

[Street Ryderz]

Here is one more point of caution. I ordered a spare CDI through AliExpress. At the time I ordered, I was not aware of the two different "stock" CDI types. I received a "TZ" type CDI, which is what I wanted, BUT The photo in the listing is of an "SD" type. The one in the photo is marked "BT" on the bottom and has the plug and magneto wires exiting from the same side of the potting, rather than diagonally opposed as the larger "TZ" type.
So you don't necessarily get the part shown in the photos when you buy a generic part through eBay or AliExpress.
(The stator in the photo in my earlier post was from an Ebay seller in Houston. The photo showed the old 3-wire with lighting coil. I wanted the lighting coil. I contacted the seller, and he said they no longer had that style.)

Based on my recent experience ordering some parts, it seem like the TZ style parts are kind-of the default. The SD components are perhaps older and harder to acquire. But unless you have the 12:15 magnet, this should be OK. Does everyone reading this agree?

Mixing up the stator,mag(rotor),cdi's is not a good idea unless you fully understand them.There are two stock types and an upgraded stator that can easily be found on ebay and mistaken for your stock replacement.this is the third one It's been marketed as the screaming roo or oz and now is also showing up as just an 80cc bicycle enine wire loop(stator)whatever they call it.

Then there are three cdi's but the last is noticeably different.

Aswell there are two crank types (keyway position) the 25 degree and the 15,So the fact that the rotor,stator,cdi are all meant to work together on their crank type can lead to issues if mixed without a full understanding of what that will do to your timming.For example and the most commen one is to have a rotor on a different crank,if a 12:15 (15 degree) rotor is used on a 1:00 (25 degree) crank it see's even more advance timming witch is great for low rpm engine's and helps accelerate faster but craps out up high and shakes the engine to death in no time.Then of course the oppisite occures the other way,many have also bought the fat boy stator and tried to use it with stock or even the aftermarket cdi's only to be upset not realize that the coil is saturating the cap faster with also end's up advancing timming.There are so many variables that research is needed to get the right stuff for your engine and as was pointed out above you don't always get what's pictured unless your dealing with a known reputable vendor and I know that's hard LOL

 

[Hell on Wheels]

Is that magnet compatible with the BBR Stage CDI then? Because it seems the timing would be way off unless there's a switch on it to tell it you have the differently keyed magnet.
Have you tried using your SD CDI instead of the BBR unit?

I have the TZ magnet and coil on the blown engine but it didn't work there either.

 

[Hell on Wheels]

Mixing up the stator,mag(rotor),cdi's is not a good idea unless you fully understand them.There are two stock types and an upgraded stator that can easily be found on ebay and mistaken for your stock replacement.this is the third one It's been marketed as the screaming roo or oz and now is also showing up as just an 80cc bicycle enine wire loop(stator)whatever they call it.View attachment 85088
Then there are three cdi's but the last is noticeably different.View attachment 85089
Aswell there are two crank types (keyway position) the 25 degree and the 15,So the fact that the rotor,stator,cdi are all meant to work together on their crank type can lead to issues if mixed without a full understanding of what that will do to your timming.For example and the most commen one is to have a rotor on a different crank,if a 12:15 (15 degree) rotor is used on a 1:00 (25 degree) crank it see's even more advance timming witch is great for low rpm engine's and helps accelerate faster but craps out up high and shakes the engine to death in no time.Then of course the oppisite occures the other way,many have also bought the fat boy stator and tried to use it with stock or even the aftermarket cdi's only to be upset not realize that the coil is saturating the cap faster with also end's up advancing timming.There are so many variables that research is needed to get the right stuff for your engine and as was pointed out above you don't always get what's pictured unless your dealing with a known reputable vendor and I know that's hard LOL

Dodged a bullet there. I went from normal coil to fatboy on the old engine.
Well, looks like once I get my CDI in I'll check timing as best I can.

BTW, do resistor spark plugs wires hinder performance any? Pros and cons?

 

[Street Ryderz]

Dodged a bullet there. I went from normal coil to fatboy on the old engine.
Well, looks like once I get my CDI in I'll check timing as best I can.

BTW, do resistor spark plugs wires hinder performance any? Pros and cons?

The name say's it all LOL,barely negliable IMO but that's a debate waiting to happen.If your using a cycle comp or speedo thaen the resistor type helps to keep the signal clean to them but still may also require sheilding.I use non resistor ngk wire and boot with the wire sheilded and see around 40k volts for every bit of spark energy I can get but on a stock one it's not a big deal again IMO anyway.

 

[junglepig]

BTW, do resistor spark plugs wires hinder performance any? Pros and cons?

Pros: Reduced EMI on any electronics on your bike or nearby radios. Potentially protects against damage to your CDI from undamped noise reflections from the plug. Causes a somewhat longer duration spark which may improve ignition.

Cons: The longer duration spark will be somewhat "cooler."

Personally , I'm just starting to do some experimentation/investigation along these lines.
My stock TZ style CDI was having no issues producing a good looking spark of 15mm across an open air gap, through a 5 K-ohm NGK plug and then across its 0.030" gap on an idling engine today.

I just got my adjustable spark gap tester today and didn't have much time to play.

I plan to use a system with a resistor in it unless I find a really good reason not to. When I'm done, my bike will have an electronic tach and some other electronics on it that will appreciate not having an undamped spark gap transmitting at all frequencies and high energy.