No start

Wolfie65

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Aug 24, 2015
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218
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Albuquerque, NM
Brand new engine, brand new everythjng, in fact.
Carb needle at factory setting, which is 2 notches from the top, iirc, idle screw turned in 1o times, getting fuel.
Engine fights me pretty hard when dropping the clutch, so no lack of compression and plenty of buddah-buddah sounds, so piston's moving well.
Visual inspection of magneto reveals no issues, it is, as stated, new, never got wet or dirty. Blue wire goes to blue wire from CDI, black to black, CDI also new - tried 2 different ones, in fact - also tried 2 different spark plus, the kit one and the NGK. Hard to tell if I'm getting spark, haven't been able to check it in darkness yet.
Electrical connections may not be ideal - not soldered - but they should be solid enough to at least start the bike. I did not want to chop off the white wire, but I do have the end taped and tucked away from everything else. The green wire from the kill switch goes to blue, the black&white wire to black, but it doesn't seem to make a difference if I even have the kill switch hooked up. Ohm meter shows resistance at all points.
Got $ 2 worth of regular, a little over 1/2 gallon, mixed with about 1.6 oz of 2-cycle oil, which should give me a mixture of roughly 1:30-something, should be close enough.
So far maybe 100 tries and no start.
 

Chainlube

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Disconnect the kill switch and try again, sounds like it's faulty.
 

Wolfie65

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It ain't the kill switch, makes absolutely no difference it it's connected or not.
I'm thinking it's the carb - Boafeng brand - because while fuel is getting to it, it doesn't seem to be getting into it.
I took it apart, the float bowl was barely even moist and I found no evidence of even 1 drop of fuel ever having visited any other parts of the carb, not even by smell.
I will try another carb, which will also give me the perfect opportunity to upgrade to the aluminum throttle, I can already tell that the plastic one wouldn't have lasted very long.
Also upgraded the bolt that holds the swing arm of the spring-loaded chain tensioner to a much longer one, secured with two BlueLoctited nuts.
Original nut came off the very short stock bolt, even after Loctite treatment.
Mony - It's a 49cc from Monsterscooterparts.
 

mony0_3

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Jan 18, 2020
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It ain't the kill switch, makes absolutely no difference it it's connected or not.
I'm thinking it's the carb - Boafeng brand - because while fuel is getting to it, it doesn't seem to be getting into it.
I took it apart, the float bowl was barely even moist and I found no evidence of even 1 drop of fuel ever having visited any other parts of the carb, not even by smell.
I will try another carb, which will also give me the perfect opportunity to upgrade to the aluminum throttle, I can already tell that the plastic one wouldn't have lasted very long.
Also upgraded the bolt that holds the swing arm of the spring-loaded chain tensioner to a much longer one, secured with two BlueLoctited nuts.
Original nut came off the very short stock bolt, even after Loctite treatment.
Mony - It's a 49cc from Monsterscooterparts.
Fuel, compression and fire at the right time. Try the new carb and see if you're getting fuel.
 

Chainlube

Well-Known Member
Local time
5:58 AM
Joined
Jan 5, 2020
Messages
6,989
It ain't the kill switch, makes absolutely no difference it it's connected or not.
I'm thinking it's the carb - Boafeng brand - because while fuel is getting to it, it doesn't seem to be getting into it.
I took it apart, the float bowl was barely even moist and I found no evidence of even 1 drop of fuel ever having visited any other parts of the carb, not even by smell.
I will try another carb, which will also give me the perfect opportunity to upgrade to the aluminum throttle, I can already tell that the plastic one wouldn't have lasted very long.
Also upgraded the bolt that holds the swing arm of the spring-loaded chain tensioner to a much longer one, secured with two BlueLoctited nuts.
Original nut came off the very short stock bolt, even after Loctite treatment.
Mony - It's a 49cc from Monsterscooterparts.
Attach a short piece of new fuel line to the inlet on the carb and blow through the carb, if air goes through, then the carb is OK.
 

Wolfie65

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Aug 24, 2015
Messages
218
Location
Albuquerque, NM
Neither very thin fishing line nor air will pass through.
Must be a manufacturing defect, it's brand new.
I've installed the NTC carb, but not tried it yet.
 

Wolfie65

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Messages
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Location
Albuquerque, NM
Success !
Bucked like a young Bronco for a while, but fires up nicely with the choke all the way down and runs well.
Engine dies when I disengage the clutch and let off the throttle, maybe the idle's a little too low.
 

2speedboi

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Messages
419
Maybe it's just poorly made, cheap junk..

I AM MAKING a suggestion to your problem in getting a quality engine and just be gone with these problems!

Ever since I dumped my china "girl" (more like a turd than a women) and went japanese I haven't had one issue in 3 years. It's not that I couldn't work on it, but just that I simply was TIRED of the constant problems.

I'll just make the note;

I know the die hards love problems to fix, things to work on etc.. but everyday I get on this forum it's a least one new post about how so and so has a bike they just built and it won't run right, or at all.

Anyone who has asked me about these kits I turn them another direction, and Wolfie: I would think that someone so critical of Walmart and all the other rip off companies would not have considered such a cheap purchase.

If I were you, I would sell it off to another fool and get a quality engine, and make your own mounting kit and run something like sidewinderjerry has made, or go friction drive. You know, support some American business in some way.

This suggestion may not fix your current problem, but may prevent a future full of them. And I may sound like a jerk, but I am just trying to be honest about what you have. And of course the choice is yours!


Good luck!

FYI: for all the die hards out there, I want to see just 1 of these cheap kits make it 2500 miles in stock form. No mods, no replacements, as you should be able to buy a product that actually works. Not just words but documentation and very real proof. This ain't some right wing conspiracy that one can just toss into the atmosphere. You got 2500 miles on that mid frame? Prove it.

Here's a fun fact, the most recent documented cross country trip via MB was done on a friction drive unit. Although I am not a fan of his poor filming and random racist rants, Jarrod D on YouTube proved it. I've never seen a mid frame kit make it that far. At least with proof. And yes, I am sure a whizzer would make it cause you know.. it's quality shines, but again no proof.
 
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