Chain Tensioner No tensioner: How to get the chain tension even on both chains?

Discussion in 'Transmission / Drivetrain' started by Fletch, Oct 12, 2010.

  1. Fletch

    Fletch Member

    I am having major issues with getting the stock tensioner to work, so I've decided to not use one for now. So I need to get the tension on both chains even, and I'm doubtful about my ability to do it without messing up yet another chain.

    Does anyone know what the science is to this? So far I have just been kind of guessing at it and how many links to take out. This has cost me a few chains and I need to get this thing riding!


  2. bikeman6969

    bikeman6969 Member


    carry your *** to tractor suppy and buy a 41 chain it comes in 10 foot lenghths and than get yourself some half links you can use the chain on both sides of the bike it will fit i have done this and with the half link you can get the right size chain lengh on both sides and you wont need a tensioner have fun
  3. Fletch

    Fletch Member

    Haha, I definitely would carry my *** to tractor supply if they had any where I live. I wanted to buy the spring tensioner there. You can order the tensioner online but not the spring... sucks.
  4. motorpsycho

    motorpsycho Active Member

    if you plan it out right, take your time and use 1/2 links, you can get both chains tight.
    the 1/2 link is the key in most cases. you can get 415 1/2 links and regular bicycle chain 1/2 links.
    if you get both chains right, you don't even need a tensioner.
  5. pbeggs

    pbeggs Member

    #41 chain is availible online from industrial supply places ,.. most hardware stores have #41 halflinks
  6. Bobbyoutback

    Bobbyoutback Member

    Check if the Chinese back sprocket is in round , I've had 2 that were not cut true center .
    If you have a one thats not perfect you will need a spring tensioner on the chain or your going to run over tight then loose until something breaks !

  7. blckwlfny1

    blckwlfny1 Member

    Definately us the 1/2 links for extra adjustment. You can also use shims in the rear motor mount. That will take up space in the motor chain only just in case you can get both chains to line up right. i hate the chain tensioner too, they're noisy and when they go bad, they have a nasty habit of swinging down and putting themselves through your spokes. On the other hand, I have also seen the tensioner used on the pedal side of the bike leaving the rear wheel tensioned to the motor chain. This way, the tensioner is only used on he more forgiving (and lower rpm) side of he bike.
    As far as placing the chain on, this method worked for me:
    you'll need to use a chain breaker. pop a link and wind the motor until the middle of the chain is around your drive sprocket. Then take the two open ends and loop them over the rear sprocket such that they meet at a point where the sprocket holds the two ends securely. tighten the chain as much as you can by slidng the chain links over the teeth, using the sprocket to hold the opposite end in place. once you have it tight enough, mark how many links you need to remove. Remove them with the chain breaker and then reassemble the chain by using the rear sprocket teeth to hold the ends together while you pop the pin back ino the chain. I hope this description was clear enough
    Last edited: Oct 18, 2010