Noob looking for upgrade reviews for my zeda 80.

[RB55]

The thrust is not a good pipe, especially not from bikeberry. Be careful of youtube reviews, many of them dont truely know what they're putting in their bike. The thrust is not a real expansion pipe so all thatll happen is it will be LOUD with little to know performance gain

I agree, but it will give you a 3+ mph gain minimum from stock just due to it being free-flowing. Best is a real mz65 from Zeda (NOT knock-offs) which can give you another horse or so.

 

[RB55]

Update, I got a 36 tooth chainring. It lost a bit of pick-up speed but it m sure it goes a little faster.
I've been ripping with that a few months and only thing that I had to change was the bearings in the clutch, luckily there was a good video on the YouTube and easy fix...

I have the mz65 (from mzmiami) heading to me but not get that yet...

Today I fitted a high performance carb and I've only had a little ripp onit, to test it worked. The cable was a bit of a b*tch with the gasket in the right place, I was supposed to bend the wire around the right angle bit on the raising piece, right?
The fuel line being on the other side was a bit annoying, as the fuel ine barely fit across but just made it but moving the input on the carb a touch, which is a nice feature.

I think it may have got a little more pick up back, but will know for sure tomorrow when I've had a few miles into it and had a chance to compare.
I'm sure it made it sound different haha, quieter and whispyier sounding.

Can't wait to get the exhaust!

Don't waste your time with the "high performance carbs". Trust me, this comes from experience. They are even worse than the stock HTs as they are jetted far too rich from the factory which will cause 4 stroking and quite a bit of power loss. Even if you get them jetted properly, they offer no real performance gain from stock as the inner diameter of the carb is basically identical, meaning that it does not allow more air/fuel mix to enter the cylinder than stock which is the whole point of upgrading a carburetor.

Your best bet is to tune the stock HT well which already works well for the engine. I always remove the stock air filer or fit a better flowing one as it's extremely restrictive. Factory jetting is #70 but most people find that #65 or #66 works the best (#65 worked best for me). I bought a set of micro drill bits from Amazon, removed the stock jet, soldered the hole up, and drilled consecutively larger until it worked the best. Remember that the optimal carburetor jetting will depend on your throttle use; for example, #67 may work best at full throttle but #65 will perform better at the lower end. Either way you will still be getting at least a few more MPH though. With a completely stock engine, 38T sprocket and free-flowing exhaust I was able to gain about 4-5 MPH with the carburetor tune. (hit 38 mph top!)

If you really want more power than porting your engine is the best way to go. Raising comp ratio will help a lot with lower RPM torque but at least for me I had very marginal gains with increasing the compression a little (1-1.5 MPH) at the top end, and since I always ride full throttle as fast as possible it wasn't a substantial upgrade for me. Increasing compression however will add more strain to these already very poor quality engines (bearings, studs, etc.) so I would not recommend raising it too high. Zeda showed on a video on their youtube channel a well-ported Zeda 80 with a Mikuni vm18 carburetor and mz65 expansion pipe producing 4.75 HP on the dyno. Keep in mind that everything else was stock, so with a better head and well-tuned carburetor you could get all the way up to 5 HP. Stock engines usually make 1.8 HP. Finally using slick or smooth tires will help you go a bit faster.

Hope this helps.

 

[Frogslayer]

That post should be a sticky all by itself @RB55 Very nice, very realistic, write up with great advice.

 

[Leighton]

Slight update, ride it to work this am. I actually have the opposite reaction to it now and had to do a fair bit of research last night to understand what was happening.

The different noise was the idle speed screw needed a little adjusting.

I actually think the nt carb is the better carb, def runs better and smoother throughout. Just it leaks like a mofo!

Thinking of putting the nt back on - hopefully I can steal the intake sealing ring.

Found it was 4 stroking much more so swapped the jet to the nt stock one and it was a little better but still felt a bit less somehow. Def feels less when you go from pedaling to engine on and picking up speed compared to the nt.

Also, both seemed to have a point when full accelerating approx 20-23mph ish where it would get to a point and 4 stroke, then if you give it a little wiggle left and right you can get a little more out of it and it would then further accelerate.

The high performance one seemed to 4stoke at top end and the nt would just scream.

What should I do you think?
Trying to get more jets but hard finding a UK supplier that sells all sizes & not just 60, 65, 70, 75 & 80

 

[GreasyChris]

Both carbs operate completely different than one another. The NT carb uses a needle and clip. If its 4 stroking at WOT then it's to rich and you need a smaller main jet. The position of the clip on the needle controls the fuel from off idle to 3/4 throttle if it four strokes in that range then raise the clip. The HP carb uses an emulsion tube to syphon fuel from the bowl and atomizes it before going into the cylinder. You can drill an extra hole in the emulsion tube to get better atomization of the fuel. If it four strokes the jet is too big there is no other adjustment. Both of these carbs probably require different jets but they take the same style jet and 70 is stock for both. Neither of these carbs provide a very reliable idle in my opinion and I think the NT is probably the better of the 2

 

[RB55]

In my opinion, tuning the stock NT is the best way to go for your engine. If you get a free flowing/better exhaust or really want a better carburetor than I would shoot for a genuine Mikuni vm18 but those run for $90 to $100...alternatively you can get and mount up Oko 21mm but I would doubt it would do too much unless you open up the exhaust. They run for $33 or so on eBay. Either way they are a bit easier to tune practically speaking since you can order 5mm jets and easily screw them in. I ordered a pz20 carburetor off eBay for $12, figured I can’t go wrong for the price. It’s 21mm so quite a bit larger than the stock carb. I’m using in on a professionally ported Zeda 80 engine. Made an custom intake out of a chopped off stock exhaust pipe to mount it to the engine and some Jb weld putty. Also had to cut off the carb side mounts. I have no idea if it will work or not but it’s worth a shot...let me know your opinion or if you’ve tried a pz20 before!

 

[Member 30059]

yea keep in mind just because the NT and SHA are the same venturi, they work off of completely different principals. Needle vs tube, round slide vs flat slide. I personal HATE NT carbs, theyre leaky and unreliable, not very reponsive in my opinion. Ive always preferred a proper tuned SHA carb

 

[Frogslayer]

You talking air leak or fuel leak? Air leak is the intakes fault. A new intake with an o ring won't leak air. As for fuel leak. Never mine, clementine.

 

[Leighton]

The nt carb worked fine, don't get me wrong. It just leaks badly. Mostly around the float bowl and the bowls drain hole and no amount of tightening or cleaning around the gasket areas worked.
My tickerler dissintergrated in the fuel somehow and I had to bung that hole up with a load of shrink tubing.
Mine seemed to seal around the intake ok tho.

I'm currently in the process of re-jetting the h/p carb and I'm at 67 jet size. It runs ok but when I'm at redlining at top speed, it does 4stroke a bit.

I should have the mz65 this coming week they tried to deliver it to my work today, but we were shut.

 

[RB55]

The nt carb worked fine, don't get me wrong. It just leaks badly. Mostly around the float bowl and the bowls drain hole and no amount of tightening or cleaning around the gasket areas worked.
My tickerler dissintergrated in the fuel somehow and I had to bung that hole up with a load of shrink tubing.
Mine seemed to seal around the intake ok tho.

I'm currently in the process of re-jetting the h/p carb and I'm at 67 jet size. It runs ok but when I'm at redlining at top speed, it does 4stroke a bit.

I should have the mz65 this coming week they tried to deliver it to my work today, but we were shut.

A new NT carb is 12$ on eBay, not too expensive. Pick up some better quality fuel line and a better fuel filter as well for a few bucks. Gas leaks are not fun...