Jackshaft Not maintaining enough to get up hills

[Frankenstein]

You are mistaken I believe... A right hand drive is right hand threads, always, out of necessity.

The little seal/retainer that's removed with a spanner is usually left hand thread. If you misread the arrow they print on it pointing counterclockwise indicating the way the seal is removed as how the freewheel is removed then it should be very hard to remove. Actually it should freewheel and make things worse.

Anyway it sounds like a freewheel, go to some place that sells them or order one online, they are usually all the same size if I remember, or at least very often, something like 24mm or 24tpi, get one with at least a 34, I would at the minimum use a 36 preferably 38 with what I think I can see by your chainring ratio, which is closer than most I think.

 

[Sitherus]

just found this thing http://sickbikeparts.com/megadrive-14-34-shimano-7-speed-freewheel/
I dont know if its compatible with my bike, an I just cant see my derailleur making that jump back to first from second.

 

[Sitherus]

Well in a manual I start in first gear and move up, since I don't take transmissions apart I wouldn't know what size the gears are inside, but I would assume if the largest is last gear than those different sized gears are the input to the rest of the drivetrain.

On a bike the rest of the drivetrain is the gears, so smallest towards the outside is last, and largest is first.

All language aside, you need a bigger biggest sprocket, if you picked up a 34 and moved the first into second, and so on until 3rd or 4th, wherever the hub stops keeping big holed gears, then you'd have a good enough set, I would personally like to have a 38 in that first slot but I weigh a lot for these little motors and my bike is slowly getting heavier (102 pounds last weigh in) so I need it to get up hills, especially with an extra 100lbs in groceries in the tow behind.

You have a freehub or a freewheel? One's a lot harder to dork with than the other.

I got my wheels from a walmart bike. this (to me) most likely means its a free wheel not a free hub.

 

[gary55]

What gear are you using on the inside at the pedals? If it's a 40 you could drop to a 36 and get a little better hill climbing.

It still sounds like something is not right with the engines performance. check the compression. Is the head labeled as to it's cc volume? Try it out with a NT carb.
All of the bolt on performance parts help a little, but if the cylinder has no work done to it it's quite possible the ports are so small and rough that the bolt ons can't reach their full potential.
It could be that you have a 8cc head which without decking of the cylinder would have reduced your compression 30lbs. +- lower than a stock slant plug head. Something is not right because that bike should be a screamer.

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

In my opinion, you're undergeared*.

The simplest and cheapest solution is to
change the 10t jackshaft gear to a 9t gear.

Looks like your bike weighs ~80lbs.
It takes a LOT of power OR low gear ratio to
push a 250lb. rider up hills.

*http://jimsitton.net/ratiocalc/

 

[5-7HEAVEN]

just found this thing http://sickbikeparts.com/megadrive-14-34-shimano-7-speed-freewheel/
I dont know if its compatible with my bike, an I just cant see my derailleur making that jump back to first from second.

You NEED that gearing.
Use a matching derailleur and chain that'll
jump from first to second gear.

What sizes are the sprockets on the chainring?

Let me guess.
You have 17t and 10t jackshaft gears.
You have 44t and 36t chainring sprockets.

With a 14t-28t, your 1st gear is 24.43:1 gear ratio.
That's equivalent to a 58t 1st gear.
And a 12.22:1 6th gear equivalent to a 29t final drive.

In comparison, my bike has a
1st gear equivalent to a 110t rear sprocket.
And a final drive of a 36t rear wheel sprocket.

My bike weighs about 80lbs and I weigh 215lbs.

There is no hill I cannot climb.

 

[gary55]

5-7 has the easiest fix for better hill climbing. Then if you still want more it's either the sick free wheel hub providing or the inner sprocket at the pedals. I have little experience with the derailleur shifters. Had one in for some work a couple of years back that was stock accept for SBP chamber. I can't remember the gearing, but it climbed great and was very fast on top end. The shifting was terrible and convinced me to make mine either internal geared or nuvinci.

 

[Frankenstein]

The derailleur doesn't actually do any jumping, it's an indexing type piece of equipment, all it does is move the feeding position of chain and provides tension to keep the chain slack even enough.

When it moves one way or another, the chain is being "let go" (hopefully) directly under a selected gear, you or the bike pedaling forward will pull what's on top and the fed chain will start comming off the gear the derailleur is set to.

More or less if the freewheel is supposed to be compatible with what derailleur you have, then it is, just be sure to set the limiter screws so the feed cog doesn't sit too high in first gear, which would cause grinding.

 

[panmines]

just found this thing http://sickbikeparts.com/megadrive-14-34-shimano-7-speed-freewheel/
I dont know if its compatible with my bike, an I just cant see my derailleur making that jump back to first from second.

I have the same derailleur as you and it can reach the 34t cog no problem. Can you please tell me the number of teeth on each sprocket in between the engine and the casset? I have a feeling you used the stock ones that came with the kit.

 

[Sitherus]

What gear are you using on the inside at the pedals? If it's a 40 you could drop to a 36 and get a little better hill climbing.

It still sounds like something is not right with the engines performance. check the compression. Is the head labeled as to it's cc volume? Try it out with a NT carb.
All of the bolt on performance parts help a little, but if the cylinder has no work done to it it's quite possible the ports are so small and rough that the bolt ons can't reach their full potential.
It could be that you have a 8cc head which without decking of the cylinder would have reduced your compression 30lbs. +- lower than a stock slant plug head. Something is not right because that bike should be a screamer.

all it says is
6.0 High Compression Head