Jackshaft Not maintaining enough to get up hills

[Sitherus]

To EVERYONE
This is what i found today by performing tests asked of me yesterday.
I ran it on the flatest road i could find. It's hill was maybe 10 degrees.
My TOP SPEED was 26MPH
My Hill Climbing SPEED was 12-14MPH

I have an air leak that is where my intake connects to my port

All Parts I have Installed Are My Only Parts
With one exception. I have 2 Delarto clone carbs one is missing its pin, and 2 clutch buck bars.

I don't know how to check compression
Its 100+ dollars for a compression test tool.

The Engine came with a sticker on it.
Its a (stinger) for whatever that means.
https://motoredbikes.com/threads/sd-stinger-vs-grubee-motors.27000/
https://motorbicycling.com/threads/stinger-motor.19454/
for what its worth it seems that they arent made anymore.
Also I have no clues as i am no expert on porting but there are bigger holes in my cylinder than my last 3 bikes.
the person i bought it from on craigslist said it has a GT50 cylinder but i can neither confirm nor deny this.

Sick bike parts shift kit parts i have
EVERYTHING IS STOCK FOR PART BELOW
http://sickbikeparts.com/2-stroke-hd-or-uhd-shifter-kit/

 

[Sitherus]

My plan is to get new gaskets for my exhaust and intake ports, get that shimano extreme up hill freewheel, and report back unless you guys tell me otherwise.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

It isn't $100 for a typical compression tester. It's only a 300psi pressure gauge and a bit of tube and a few brass fittings. $15-20 (I paid £11 after reading the reviews for that exact product to be sure I got one that works)



1-get a compression gauge
2-get the bike up to operating temp.
3-turn it off and remove plug using care not to get burned
4-install compression gauge
5-ground plug wire
6-kick start bike with the throttle held wide open as many times as necessary until the comression guage doesn't go any higher.
7-record reading and how many kicks used so I can repeat accurately

Google is a wonderful thing

 

[Sitherus]

It isn't $100 for a typical compression tester. It's only a 300psi pressure gauge and a bit of tube and a few brass fittings. $15-20 (I paid £11 after reading the reviews for that exact product to be sure I got one that works)



1-get a compression gauge
2-get the bike up to operating temp.
3-turn it off and remove plug using care not to get burned
4-install compression gauge
5-ground plug wire
6-kick start bike with the throttle held wide open as many times as necessary until the comression guage doesn't go any higher.
7-record reading and how many kicks used so I can repeat accurately

Google is a wonderful thing

ive kick started my engine so many times my kick stand is bent i trie to bend it back but it just made it easier to bend.
I need a way to prop my bike or get a pull start before attempting this. I have an ol nos gauge laying around i guess i could fab something.
and before you say it I cant replace my kick stand as its built in to the frame.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

ive kick started my engine so many times my kick stand is bent i trie to bend it back but it just made it easier to bend.
I need a way to prop my bike or get a pull start before attempting this. I have an ol nos gauge laying around i guess i could fab something.
and before you say it I cant replace my kick stand as its built in to the frame.

You don't actually have to start it. Just turn it over so it pumps and the gauge can read the cranking pressure. That won't need to be as fast as you normally would be turning the engine over to start it.
I can get up to 90psi just by turning the tyre with my hand. I have to fit the pedal chain in the next few days to get a reading of the actual cranking pressure. I'll be testing it cold to be comparable with others on the forum who I think are testing the compression cold.
My squish gap was 1.2mm with the aluminium gasket but reduced to 0.55mm when I switched to a twisted Teflon tape gasket (for easy replacement). Idk if I made that correctly though. I'll have to make a thread about it soon.

 

[crassius]

most auto parts stores will loan a compression gauge for free

hopefully, the guy that built the motor didn't get a wrongly ported top end resulting in a weak motor

my guess would be that fixing the air leak & getting a better gear ratio will fix all

 

[Frankenstein]

most auto parts stores will loan a compression gauge for free

hopefully, the guy that built the motor didn't get a wrongly ported top end resulting in a weak motor

my guess would be that fixing the air leak & getting a better gear ratio will fix all

Well the air leak needs addressing, his top speed is so freaking off for having a shift kit that beyond a doubt fixing that should give him nearly twice the power back, may be possible he can take hills once it's patched.

 

[Sitherus]

I just lost my car and with it my driving job. Its why im so focoused on getting the bike running. I dont want to seem like im arguing with people just trying to help, but 20 dollars more for a simple gauge is too much. I cant pay more than 5 for something im only going to use once. This build gives a different impression. Ive spent over 800 dollars on it but it has been over the course of 3 years of collecting parts. I was making money, but ive never made enough to spend on things i wanted. I just did it anyways. I have $35 left until october 16. I want to fix this and if there are parts i need ill find a way.

Im hoping that my local auto store or maybe a mechanic would let me borrow a compression tester.

Or someone could tell me where to get a cheap fitting for my spark plug hole so that i can make one.

I was coming back home tonight from the store.
My engine toped out in first gear to the point which i could pedal faster.

Now i agree something is wrong.

Do i need to fix my leak before i run a compression test?

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Yes you do. Definitely!
Btw I hope you have a torque wrench, that's pretty essential. 19Nm is what I'm doing and it's actually less than I thought.

Teflon plumbers tape was my best £1 spent on my build, I reckon. Although I have not started the engine yet lol but it's a well known thing on here.
If you can detect a head gasket leak (blowing on your skin or lighter flame or whatever) then you can get a roll of Teflon plumbers tape for maybe $1 that is good for making many twisted Teflon tape gaskets (and they end up thinner than the shi*ty single use aluminium gasket, so that actually boosts compression as well as actually sealing!).
Check your head is flat and not warped. If you have some 320-400 grit sandpaper and a sheet of glass you can get it a bit flatter on that then ...
Take about 50cm (20") of the Teflon tape and double it over then twist it up into a 2-3mm string and lay it on the top of the cylinder around the bore about 1mm from the edge (with a tiny bit of thick grease on the top to stick the tape in place), cross it over in line with a stud (and I have been untwisting the tape slightly just where it crosses).

Check that the piston clears the head and measure the gap using some 1.5mm soft solder.

You can use the same tape on the carb end of your inlet tube where the carb fits over it. Wind some on flat and just reaching over the end then it will seal that join really well too.

Now I'm off to play with my new air filter. Best £5.40 I've spent on this thing.

 

[Sitherus]

So today I replaced my gasket with a cereal box gasket and tightened to the specified above. I've never used a torque wrench on this application. It seemed right but who am I to argue. I got on it and it ran much better. Not better enough but close. I got 10 more mph as I heard a noise and the engine was rough and hard to maintain. Then it just died. I had a hard time starting it and maintaining it. Then I realized there was a piece of the cylinder body mining from the intake. I'd over tightened the nut causing it to crack. Now I'm left with two things. I pedaled the bike to oriley auto and got Quick Steel cold welder and I'm working on filling the hole. I plan to sand it down flush for a new gasket, ( I picked up games material from the auto store) them drill a new stud hole and rethread it. Then re mount my carb.

There is nothing wrong with the intake hole just the threads and stud

This is temporary while I did a high performance cylinder body on the cheap.