Not sure if clutch/chain are properly installed

Discussion in '2-Stroke Engines' started by Spence37, Sep 10, 2016.

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  1. Spence37

    Spence37 Guest

    Hey, I'm doing my first build right now and I'm definitly a newbie here. I've installed everything according to youtube videos and what I've found on this forum here, and I think I've got it right. However, when I just try to walk the bike, the wheel won't even turn. Shouldn't the back wheel be able to turn freely when I'm holding the clutch in? If it should and it isn't, what might the issue be?

    Also, how tightly does the engine need to be mounted, and how can I mount it tighter? It wobbles side to side and I know that's not good, but I can't seem to get it tighter.

  2. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    Clutch is not adjusted properly, pull the clutch horizontal arm further up the clutch cable.

    Finer adjustments with the flower nut under right side cover.

    Very tight, like the motor and bicycle are one solid hunk of metal, the slightest push or pull to the motor head should result in the rest of the bike moving with it.

    Big problem is the stud holes in the motor itself, they can be rather weak and that ends up in stripped threads, picking up a helicoil kit in the size your mounting studs are will be very helpful in the long run. You'll be able to torque them down untill it's as solid as a rock. Also head out to your local hardware store for replacement bolts/studs in the highest grade they have (8.8 is most commonly found in Lowe's and home depot) so you'll be able to torque it without stripping the bolt too, get a handful of matching nuts and lock washers, blue threadlock if you are feeling amped (the store probably has a helicoil set anyways, 2 turds 1 bone)

    Double check to make sure you are properly mounting the engine with the required spacer on the rear and that your seating good on the front. If the front mount isn't meeting quite flush with the tube the maybe a slight modification would be in order, use a large rounded file to file the engine front mount to match the angle of the tube a bit better. I had to use an angle grinder on mine to match the almost 2 inch tube my bike has, a file would've taken years...

    You can remove a hefty portion of that mount area without risk of harming the motor, it's there for show and not to much else. Helicoil those stud holes definitely.

    After an afternoons worth of work, you'll have a very strong engine mount, you really can't have flex otherwise the chain will begin wearing badly, even breaking, or slipping off the rear sprocket. The motor will be subjected to more vibration rather than sending it into your hands like a properly mounted motor should, which just causes the engine to break down faster...

    Good luck, welcome to the very painful world of bicycle motors. Once you get used to the 80 or 90 things that go wrong on a roughly bi-monthly basis you'll enjoy it.
    FurryOnTheInside likes this.
  3. SpenceDawg

    SpenceDawg New Member

    Thanks for the help! I took of the rubber mounts I idiotically tried to use for the mount originally and I've got it on there real solid now. That meant I had to resize and attach the chain, and everything now works fine in that department!
  4. Frankenstein

    Frankenstein Well-Known Member

    No problem, rubber mounts are Uh... Questionable. If it's a thin layer between the motor mount and the frame, like a layer or 2 at most of something like an inner tube then that can be OK, still tighten it down hard. This just helps with vibration a bit apparently, I never used it but I could see it being benifitial if the motor is closely mounted to a weld on the frame, being that the forces and vibrations can Crack them.

    Anymore problems just post! Read more, have fun, wear a damn helmet.