Now I'm really worried HELP! 1/7/7 UPDATE!

Edward is right. Here's a copy of the instructions I have....

1. How to Adjust Clutch if signs of slipping or squealing are encountered :
A) Disengage clutch by pulling handle bar clutch lever inward and lock into catch lock.
B) Remove right side engine clutch cover and remove small locking screw on center *Clutch Adjust Nut.
C) Pull clutch arm on left rear engine inward. Back off *Clutch Adjust Nut ¼ turn counterclockwise.
D) Release handlebar clutch lever and check for slight 1/16" free-play on engine clutch arm.
E) Readjust *Clutch Adjust Nut as required to get required 1/6" clutch arm free play.
F) Tighten *Clutch Adjust Nut on clutch plate clockwise until just snug.
G) Then re-install small locking screw in outer edge of *Clutch Adjust Nut .
H) Good idea to place a small gob of grease at gear mesh area. Use grease sparingly! Then replace cover.
I ) Squirt light grade oil down clutch cable sheathing to reduce friction and make for easy lever pull.

59_06_1.jpg


59_05_1.jpg

*Clutch Adjust Nut and Lock screw--- aka...gland nut
 
Last edited by a moderator:
alright thanks guys I'm going to go try this right after I walk the dog and run some errands - it does sound like slippage could be my problem. I use the clutch A LOT whenever I need to slow down I disengage, rev up the engine and then pedal and then let the clutch back in to get going again.
 
nope that didn't do anything it doesn't seem to matter how I adjust the clutch it still won't make the piston go up and down when the clutch is let out.

I'm going to cry :(
 
srdavo said:
Edward is right. Here's a copy of the instructions I have....

1. How to Adjust Clutch if signs of slipping or squealing are encountered :
A) Disengage clutch by pulling handle bar clutch lever inward and lock into catch lock.
B) Remove right side engine clutch cover and remove small locking screw on center *Clutch Adjust Nut.
C) Pull clutch arm on left rear engine inward. Back off *Clutch Adjust Nut ¼ turn counterclockwise.
D) Release handlebar clutch lever and check for slight 1/16" free-play on engine clutch arm.
E) Readjust *Clutch Adjust Nut as required to get required 1/6" clutch arm free play.
F) Tighten *Clutch Adjust Nut on clutch plate clockwise until just snug.
G) Then re-install small locking screw in outer edge of *Clutch Adjust Nut .
H) Good idea to place a small gob of grease at gear mesh area. Use grease sparingly! Then replace cover.
I ) Squirt light grade oil down clutch cable sheathing to reduce friction and make for easy lever pull.

59_06_1.jpg


59_05_1.jpg

*Clutch Adjust Nut and Lock screw--- aka...gland nut


unless I'm retarded and I just keep doing it wrong.

I pulled the clutch handle in

took off the clutch assembly cover on the right side and removed the locking screw

I pulled the clutch lever arm in 1/8" and rotated the clutch adjust nut 1/4 turn counterclockwise

I walked the bike and saw that it is still not engaged when the handle is in, the engine is engaged when the lever is let out, but the piston doesn't go up and down.

I did the same thing but brought the clutch adjust another 1/4 turn counterclockwise, same thing except this time the clutch was not letting out when I 'popped the clutch'

did the same thing again except the other direction coming back to 3/4 turn back the other way this time the clutch was engaged still a little bit when I pulled it in.

can I mail this POS to someone and have them look at it for me?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
you said the piston is moving with the sparkplug out?
hmmmmmm? my first one did that to me....but I wasn't getting any spark, a new plug fixed it for me. I'm baffled????
 
Dennis Foster

Sideshow call Dennis Foster at Gurbee he is their go to guy when it comes to these things he is a walking bible........his e mail ad is dlfoster@neok.com but it is better to talk to him at 918 855-1807

He has helped me out a lot and loves these little rice burners :)

Cookie
 
sideshowsideswipe, what's going on?

from your "report" i suspect there is something mechanically wrong/broken, but i'm sorry, i don't have a clue without seeing the engine. was dennis able to help?
 
no response from dennis I emailed dax and he asked me if I can turn the engine over by directly turning the front sprocket nut with the spark plug wrench. I haven't tried it yet, but what would it mean if I either can or can't ? it's like pulling teeth here...

I have to;
1)tell someone the problem,
2)get an answer,
3)try something else,
4)order a part
5)start at 1 again

so pissed off guys...
 
i know, man, bummer :?

ok, dennis wants to know what i've been trying to figure out...is there a solid connection from the crank-gear, thru the clutch, to the drive sprocket? i.e. is something broken, or merely misadjusted?

the best way to diagnose this kind of issue IS static, the bike propped up so you can spin the wheel by hand, better still, chain off & spin the sprocket manually.

lesson learned for all of us: all of these other try's have been sadly out-of-sync, when giving symptoms, you have to wait for the crowd to weigh-in & discuss it, don't jump at every reply right off...also, you have to educate yourself at least enuff to be able to technically describe your problem, the wrong terminology can get us looking for an "ignition problem" when we should be looking for a "mechanical problem" or vice-versa. also, when you're trying to help someone, qualify your level of surety, we all can make some pretty good educated guesses, but the "patient" has to know it's only your best-guess & not a sure-fix.

sideswipe, are you willing to try this again, one step at a time? start with chain off, both side-covers off, plug in, exhaust and carb outta the way. turn the drive sprocket by hand, watching both sides of the mechanism. tell us what happens, reporting all the way thru the power-train: does sprocket spin the shaft, does flywheel/clutch turn, does it drive the crank-gear, is the piston moving? we're looking for anything stripped, chipped, or slipping, it could be any one of those points, look closely enuff to be sure, don't assume anything. noise, & where it's coming from, is important, too.
 
Back
Top