O-ring on carb

[retrophoto]

I had to buy a pack at home depot. Definitely not a couple of cents but it was money well spent.

 

[Mogyver69]

I ended up noticing that the carb when you slide it onto the manifold bottomed out onto the intake and really didnt give me any indication of how far it really went into the carb. What Ive done is removed the clamp and ground down the area on the carb where the clamp sits to see if the intake manifold was seating all the way inside the carb. It turned out I was able to slide the carb almost another 1/8 inch which gave me a much larger seating area for the carb and manifold to seal. I completely disassembled the carb to be sure no metal shavings got inside. So I guess the seal trick probly would of been just fine to fill that gap. But well I like trying new things.

 

[Mogyver69]

HI Guys, Ive been having the same issues with a vacumm leak at the carb where the intake and carb slide together. I did shave the clamp area as suggested and was able to slide the intake manifold about a 1/8 inch in further which gave me a much nicer seat but even after doing that and firmly pressing the carb back onto the intake and tightening the clamp. I still had a leak . I liked the seal idea but felt in order to get a nice seal your really going to need a soft black rubber seal. I found the perfect oring. The size is 5/8" ID (3/4" OD X 1/16" Wall. I purchased it at lowes back in the plumbing section for under $1. The seal fits in side the carb very nicely and carb isnt forced out a great deal like with the thicker orings . Ive yet to fire up my engine since I just finished putting it all back together this evening. If your using the seal method you dont need to trim the clamp area on the carb. The seal fills the voided area very nicely. I will attach pics to show. Hope this helps somebody!!!
Pic 1 illustrates a stock connection. pic2 illuistrates the area the seal needs to go. pic 3 illustrates the seal and the area it will be going. pic 4 illustrates the seal in place and pic 5 illustrates the intake and carb connected together and the very slight gap caused by the seal. Id say this is a perfect fit.

 

[Large Filipino]

Very nice Mogyver! I'm running over to Lowes right now. I can't believe all these miles and I've never done this. THANK YOU!!

 

[Mogyver69]

Very nice Mogyver! I'm running over to Lowes right now. I can't believe all these miles and I've never done this. THANK YOU!!

Yep, and it worked great. I finally fired my bike last week after playing with the jet sizes alittle and took her for a spin. Finally The bike runs and Idles and the choke is able to sit in the run position.

 

[danlandberg]

I had a problem with my RAW 80 kit that was opposite. Did not need to choke to start or run! It would not idle. 4 stroked at mid & high rpms. I dropped the needle down. moved the clip up one grove (away from pointy end). Knew I needed more air to fuel %. I'm at 5500 ft.above sea level. I also cut the tube in the exhaust off. I've had it to 35mph so far, but my goal is 50 mph!!! Got another prob now. The fuel jet and tube broke and fell into the bowl. I sent it to Disney Land to have it repaired till I can get a new carb. Micki Mouse is my friend!!!

 

[arceeguy]

I just wrap some teflon pipe seal tape on the intake pipe and it ensures a good seal.

 

[danlandberg]

There is a sealant by three bond that is a case sealant ( 1104 ) that will seal an 1/8" gap under pressure or vacuum. Let it set 20-to 30 minutes before assembly.(It does not harden) It will make an O-Ring

 

[Junster]

I bought Viton o-rings from SBP they come in a 3 pack. Viton is resistant to almost any chemical. You may find a standard o-ring will swell after a while. If it swelled to much it could get sucked into the carb.

 

[danlandberg]

Got the carb back, installed it and had to bend float arms down a tad to stop flooding. Going to try it out this morning. Need to know what NGK plug to use for stock engine?