On going project -fastest motorized bicycle ever- pics

I still have a few things to do but so far it is going fast. Thought I would show it off well doing maintenance

What do you guys think would look good on it?


And yes it will be cleaned soon

 

[Chainlube]

Knock the center out of one of these, https://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/7-8-in-brake-disc/A-p8404352e

 

[FNTPuck]

Yeah, heat sink and tig if you got access. Rivets for me, I’m cheap.

I made a mistake. Typical bicycle rotors are 1.8 or less mm and should be replaced at 1.5mm. I was working in the garage and saw the mongoose wheel and remembered the rotor was thicker than average. The mongoose rotors actually are 2mm. So maybe run 3 regular rotors stacked up and riveted. I’ve seen rotors thinner than shimanos 1.8mm.

The next issue is the bolt strength. 5mm+ length of shear action is a lot for an M5 disc hub screw with a minor diameter around 4mm. I’d see about drilling and tapping to 6mm or even 1/4-28 if the rotor webbing allows. Cobalt drill.

Or get one laser cut? Will it warp?

Keep us posted. I need it too... that 3” long moped disc pad is really something.

Correct, it is a standard 203mm Shimano RT66 rotor that is 1.8mm thick. When compared to a generic ebay rotor, even though it is the same thickness it is noticeably stiffer and doesn't bend/warp as easily so its harder steel.

Just to test it out, I will bolt them together tightly and attach a heatsink and try to see if I can tack weld them without warping or damaging them as practice. They are mismatched rotors but same size so should work for a test even though technically one side will have different grip and wear characteristics. If it works, I will get two of the thicker 2mm mongoose rotors and use those. Bike is probably around 150lbs so while its heavy for an MB, its nothing too insane and heavier mopeds use 3mm rotors which is thinner than two standard MTB rotors.

Bolts are grade8 studs that the rotor sits onto and the flywheel screws over them to sandwich against the hub. Would have to replace them with 2mm longer ones but with everything mounting flush I doubt it would even have the weight and traction needed to shear 6x 4mm grade8 bolts even if I braked as hard as I could on a hot dry surface. Guess I will find out! Can probably tap them to 5mm and run larger stainless bolts if needed but more than that and I would start to worry about making the wall thickness too thin since they are pretty close to the edge IIRC. Would have to pull the flywheel off and check.

Also the rear wheel is 22lbs not 24, found the pic where I weighed it and just remembered wrong. Might go tubeless and drop another 2lbs from it by ditching the heavy dirt bike innertube. Honestly could probably limp home with a flat rear tire anyway since the sidewalls are so much stiffer on a motorcycle tire lol. Its like a run flat on a car.

 

[Frogslayer]

That's part of what makes motorcycle wheels a little more dangerous, they can look inflated, yet have little to no air pressure. Really have to check with a gauge.

 

[FNTPuck]

That's part of what makes motorcycle wheels a little more dangerous, they can look inflated, yet have little to no air pressure. Really have to check with a gauge.

Yep, especially on a touring bike with square-ish profile tires.

I didn't notice the rear tire was low on my Connie until it was down to like 10psi! On my Ninja I can almost instantly tell when it goes under 30psi.

 

[Ralpho]

Dang, I always keep around 70 or 80 + on a bicycle even if it's rated for 60 something. Helps keep from getting flats. Just now playing with some high pressure Continental road bike tires and they are not fun to mount, I punctured a tube before I learned how to mount them. These see 90+ as slicks. I won't be running these motorized, just playing with what I got from Craig's list. Paid 30 for this bike I'm building right now. The tires are worth more than I paid and I have to say the Continental tires are pretty cool.

 

[Wrench]

Yea, I have been riding my Harley on the freeway doing 85MPH and get off at an exit to discover that I have a Flat Rear Tire.
Just the centrifugal force kept the tire round at high speeds. But once I stopped I had to call AAA.
I run Michelin Commander 2.

He rode it a bit and said night and day difference. He had bought the bike used and was riding it for a couple weeks often doing 90+ on the freeway. He did not know how long the tire was flat.

Moto tires or possibly safety beads save lives!

That must of been that guys first motorcycle.
If the tires are low on air or flat the Motorcycle rides like a tank. Hard to lean and turn.

 

[Chainlube]

The last time I had a flat on my motorcycle, I ended up with a big hole in my knee.

 

[Frogslayer]

My motorcycle tires are sidewall reinforced, says with the literature when you get them you may not notice underinflation so check with a gauge.

 

[Wrench]

My motorcycle tires are sidewall reinforced, says with the literature when you get them you may not notice underinflation so check with a gauge.

What brand tires ya run? Pretty sure all Full Size M/C tires are sidewall reinforced.
Yea, ya really won't notice a low tire Unless it's really low.
If my tires get 5 PSI low I really don't notice un till I put air back in then it rides and leans sooo much better.
If ya like , over inflate 3 to 5 PSI Then it really feels loose and will dive into the turns
I try to check my PSI at least once a month. I hook up my air pump and it turns off when it reaches the PSI I have set.
I skip using the Tire pressure gauge there is one on the air pump. But I still carry one in my M/C tool bag.

 

[Pixelcreator1]

Damn, and I thought my garage was a mess. I dig the banana seat, though.

you ain't seen s**t XD