On the occasion of a new Hyper Cruiser purchase

Motor

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Greetings, Gentle Readers...

I thought that I would share with you my recent experience with the purchase of a new Hyper Cruiser 26"
bicycle. It was ordered from Wally and arrived shortly after at my house in a corrugated cardboard box.
There was no internal damage and the tires still held air from China. Having been poor as a child it was
necessary for me to make my own bicycles out of what I could acquire, so I was not intimidated by having
to assemble it from the box. The following is my experience...

All the parts were there! Nothing missing or deranged in transit. So far so good. But then...

Every possible bearing was overtightened and "crunchy."

So I started with the steering head. The big crown nut was very tight and the "keyed" washer underneath
had sheared the little tab that rides in the groove of the fork so as not to transfer torque to the bearing
adjustment cone was, well, transfering torque to the adjustment cone. This required the use of water pump
pliers to unscrew it. Afterwards it was a straightforward procedure to apply extra high temp grease to the
caged bearings, squeeze the keyed washer some and re-assemble. It adjusted well and would spin several
revolutions when spun by hand.

Moving on to the pedal crank, it was also straightforward. Dis-assemble, grease and re-assemble. The
pedals would spin almost a minute when tested. So far, so good.

Well, let's see about the "crunchy" front wheel. Should be easy, just re-adjust the bearing cones, right?
NO! Hell no! No stamped steel cone wrench would have served the purpose. Oh! I know, I'll just grind a
regular open end wrench to a narrower profile and be able to use that. So with the narrowed wrench in hand
I put another wrench on the cone's locknut. It must have been laughing at me! The other side was no
different. That's OK, I put a torque amplifier on the narrowed wrench and brought out a 1/2" breaker bar
with appropriate socket. Now we'll get some action! And for sure there was action... a jaw on the narrowed
wrench flew about two feet and my fist punched the floor. In my mind I could imagine somebody laughing at me
with a Chinese accent...

"Oh Motor... how you may, how you can now?"

The bearing was still "crunchy." At this point the average Father assembling the bike might have just bolted
the wheel in and said "Ride it slow at first, Son, some machines just need a gentle break-in."

But, if I can build a Harley but not get the bearing right on a bicycle then I will have to re-evaluate my
mechanic skills. This was hurting my feelings not to mention my fist punching the floor.

So I brought out my propane torch and wondered how this would affect my new bike warranty. The torch should help
and I can always just replace the axle and cones if necessary. So I took off the other axle nut and put my
breaker bar on the opposite side locknut. Had a box-end wrench, with appropriate torque amplifier, at the ready
and lit the propane torch and played it on the remaining lock nut. When the grease started to drip some I started
to twist the locknuts apart and it started to move, along with the bearing cone, of course. About the time that
I started to wonder if there was a caged bearing or loose rollers inside I heard three of them fall out. Well,
that answers that question. After turning off the locknut with my brute strength the cone was free to be removed.
Well, after it cooled off, that is...OUCH!

So, after searching for the three ball bearings for a few minutes the cone was removed. The ball bearings were
counted and found to be ten on each side. I rolled the axle and found it to still be straight! After greasing and
re-assembly the wheel would spin a long time when held in the front fork, upside down, of course.

I considered myself fortunate that the cone on the other side was still in place and I did not have to "center"
the wheel on the axle. But now I still have to get a cone wrench to be able to tighten the locknut properly.

That leaves the back wheel still not turning freely but I will leave that for the next installment of this
sorry tale. I am sure that my impacted fist and burned finger will be alright by then.

Motor
 
Greetings, Gentle Readers...

I thought that I would share with you my recent experience with the purchase of a new Hyper Cruiser 26"
bicycle. It was ordered from Wally and arrived shortly after at my house in a corrugated cardboard box.
There was no internal damage and the tires still held air from China. Having been poor as a child it was
necessary for me to make my own bicycles out of what I could acquire, so I was not intimidated by having
to assemble it from the box. The following is my experience...

All the parts were there! Nothing missing or deranged in transit. So far so good. But then...

Every possible bearing was overtightened and "crunchy."

So I started with the steering head. The big crown nut was very tight and the "keyed" washer underneath
had sheared the little tab that rides in the groove of the fork so as not to transfer torque to the bearing
adjustment cone was, well, transfering torque to the adjustment cone. This required the use of water pump
pliers to unscrew it. Afterwards it was a straightforward procedure to apply extra high temp grease to the
caged bearings, squeeze the keyed washer some and re-assemble. It adjusted well and would spin several
revolutions when spun by hand.

Moving on to the pedal crank, it was also straightforward. Dis-assemble, grease and re-assemble. The
pedals would spin almost a minute when tested. So far, so good.

Well, let's see about the "crunchy" front wheel. Should be easy, just re-adjust the bearing cones, right?
NO! Hell no! No stamped steel cone wrench would have served the purpose. Oh! I know, I'll just grind a
regular open end wrench to a narrower profile and be able to use that. So with the narrowed wrench in hand
I put another wrench on the cone's locknut. It must have been laughing at me! The other side was no
different. That's OK, I put a torque amplifier on the narrowed wrench and brought out a 1/2" breaker bar
with appropriate socket. Now we'll get some action! And for sure there was action... a jaw on the narrowed
wrench flew about two feet and my fist punched the floor. In my mind I could imagine somebody laughing at me
with a Chinese accent...

"Oh Motor... how you may, how you can now?"

The bearing was still "crunchy." At this point the average Father assembling the bike might have just bolted
the wheel in and said "Ride it slow at first, Son, some machines just need a gentle break-in."

But, if I can build a Harley but not get the bearing right on a bicycle then I will have to re-evaluate my
mechanic skills. This was hurting my feelings not to mention my fist punching the floor.

So I brought out my propane torch and wondered how this would affect my new bike warranty. The torch should help
and I can always just replace the axle and cones if necessary. So I took off the other axle nut and put my
breaker bar on the opposite side locknut. Had a box-end wrench, with appropriate torque amplifier, at the ready
and lit the propane torch and played it on the remaining lock nut. When the grease started to drip some I started
to twist the locknuts apart and it started to move, along with the bearing cone, of course. About the time that
I started to wonder if there was a caged bearing or loose rollers inside I heard three of them fall out. Well,
that answers that question. After turning off the locknut with my brute strength the cone was free to be removed.
Well, after it cooled off, that is...OUCH!

So, after searching for the three ball bearings for a few minutes the cone was removed. The ball bearings were
counted and found to be ten on each side. I rolled the axle and found it to still be straight! After greasing and
re-assembly the wheel would spin a long time when held in the front fork, upside down, of course.

I considered myself fortunate that the cone on the other side was still in place and I did not have to "center"
the wheel on the axle. But now I still have to get a cone wrench to be able to tighten the locknut properly.

That leaves the back wheel still not turning freely but I will leave that for the next installment of this
sorry tale. I am sure that my impacted fist and burned finger will be alright by then.

Motor
I totally love how you tell a story Motor...lol...lol.
Just a couple words of advice since I have a Hyper myself and @Gordy has one as well.

The Hyper frame is a well built super strong frame to motorise but the rims are total junk and will NOT withstand operating at the speeds of a motorised bike since they are only designed to withstand the usual average of 11 MPH of the single speed non motorised speeds of a regular bicycle, the rear coaster brakes on all bicycles are also junk when it comes to motorised bikes and will usually seize up/lock up on you and send you flying.

Get a set of good street mags like mine or a set of spoke rims like what @Gordy has bought since they will be able to take the punishment...lol.

You will also need to remove the fenders or do some real heavy duty reinforcement of them as they always break off at the tabs that are supposed to hold them on...Again it is speed and vibrations that cause the fenders to to wrap around and cave ion the wheels and cause major accidents resulting in major bodily damage or death.

You can also just replace them with "shorty" plastic fenders like I have done that needed only minor reinforcement at its metal attachment areas that I double up with plumbers strapping on my bike.

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You will find that the frame is a great choice for a motorised bike though...I have been using this one for the last 5 years 4 months on an almost daily basis here in the high deserts of New Mexico...Most of the usual China Girl motors available are around 2.5 to 3 HP...This motor I am using, the Phantom 85 is somewhwere between 5 to 6 HP and everything is holding up beautifully for me.

Keep us posted on your progress and I am sure that when @Gordy sees this report on your Hyper, he will include some pics of his Hyper and links to the spoke rims he is using to replace those awful rims they come with.
 
Roger, @Damien, I intend to ride this around, with the fenders lol, with just human power for a short while. The wheels are inadequate for a motor. I can hold up the complete wheel with just my little finger.

I got this bike on the recommendation of people on this forum, yourself included. About five years ago I got a Huffy Nel Lusso with the intent of putting a motor on it but it didn't happen until now. I will leave that story for another time.

I still have to go through my China Love Doll to look for swarf and probably upgrade bolts. I will at least get a stout rear wheel at first when the motor goes on. Maybe both.
 
I was impressed when I pulled mine from the box. The frame is wayyyy heavier than anything comparable. Thicker steel tubes too. But the wheels were the first thing I noticed. Never even put them on the bike. I regreased everything with lucas red n tacky.


This is why you don't run fenders...

And my bike build...

Should have all the links to the major parts I used.
 
I was impressed when I pulled mine from the box. The frame is wayyyy heavier than anything comparable. Thicker steel tubes too. But the wheels were the first thing I noticed. Never even put them on the bike. I regreased everything with lucas red n tacky.


This is why you don't run fenders...

And my bike build...

Should have all the links to the major parts I used.
YEP...I forgot to post this URL about "Beware the fenders" when I posted my post...lol...lol.

 
I'm planning on upgrading to a hyper based on @DAMIEN1307 and @Gordy Recommendation.
1000000742.jpg
I'm currently running a old giant 760 i got used. Its a chrome moly frame with aluminum after market parts its a great riding bike but i don't think its strong enough for the motor. I bought it before i found the forum. Its a dominator 85 bought from CMB (yes I know about CMB now). I had go through and adjust everything. Weirdest thing was there was two gaskets on the already installed intake with one of them being for a 66cc, and there was a weird casting short on the bottom of one of the open transfers. 200 miles on it so far its been going well way more power than I expected can accelerate up a hill with a 325 pounds of me, bike, and tools. I have been running it stock on 20 to 1 for the break in period. I'm currently buying the parts I need for the engine and new frame I have a 21mm PWK carb and carbon fiber intake kit from hybridpowerbikes, and I plan on tearing the motor down adjusting my squish (currently 1.2mm) I may go to the CDH 110 piston and going through it with a degree wheel and porting if nessary (I will definitely need help finding the numbers I need to aim for). I have 12 gauge heavy duty spoked rims and 36 tooth sprocket from gomaxind. I plan on going to disk brake front center pull rear but im open to suggestions. What I'm also hoping someone can help me with is knowing which forks I should buy, (was planning on a triple tree) is the hyper 1inch or 1 1/8 threaded or not, and what pipe would fit best side pipe or belly pipe MZ65 for avenger? I know I'm doing this backwards, but the bike I'm running is currently my daily driver until the snow flies.
 
I'm planning on upgrading to a hyper based on @DAMIEN1307 and @Gordy Recommendation.View attachment 234961 I'm currently running a old giant 760 i got used. Its a chrome moly frame with aluminum after market parts its a great riding bike but i don't think its strong enough for the motor. I bought it before i found the forum. Its a dominator 85 bought from CMB (yes I know about CMB now). I had go through and adjust everything. Weirdest thing was there was two gaskets on the already installed intake with one of them being for a 66cc, and there was a weird casting short on the bottom of one of the open transfers. 200 miles on it so far its been going well way more power than I expected can accelerate up a hill with a 325 pounds of me, bike, and tools. I have been running it stock on 20 to 1 for the break in period. I'm currently buying the parts I need for the engine and new frame I have a 21mm PWK carb and carbon fiber intake kit from hybridpowerbikes, and I plan on tearing the motor down adjusting my squish (currently 1.2mm) I may go to the CDH 110 piston and going through it with a degree wheel and porting if nessary (I will definitely need help finding the numbers I need to aim for). I have 12 gauge heavy duty spoked rims and 36 tooth sprocket from gomaxind. I plan on going to disk brake front center pull rear but im open to suggestions. What I'm also hoping someone can help me with is knowing which forks I should buy, (was planning on a triple tree) is the hyper 1inch or 1 1/8 threaded or not, and what pipe would fit best side pipe or belly pipe MZ65 for avenger? I know I'm doing this backwards, but the bike I'm running is currently my daily driver until the snow flies.

Be aware that the prices of the Hyper Cruiser just went up 50 bucks since last I wrote about it.
What I bought for 100 bucks back in May of 2020 has now doubled to 200 bucks...WOW.

 
(was planning on a triple tree) is the hyper 1inch or 1 1/8 threaded or not,
This I can tell ya about since I recently replaced my stock Hyper forks with a triple tree back in April of this year.

  • Steerer: Threaded 1" (22.2mm Inside Dimension)
  • Steerer Length: 350mm (222mm Threaded)
  • Brake Mount: Disc
  • Axle Size: 3/8

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084FL7K5...=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1

It is available in black or chrome, the chrome actually costs less than the black one...lol...lol.

Triple tree fork.jpg


The outermost tops of the forks I needed to cut off exactly 4 and 3/4's of an inch each one to fit it perfectly on my Hyper.

This is how it looked on my Hyper when I had it finished on 4-23-2025.

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And how my bike looks now since I bought new baskets, rear trunk carrier, and front handlebar tool roll...lol.

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