On the occasion of a new Hyper Cruiser purchase

[robe]

Not finished yet but here is a pic of CDH 1 1/8 suspension forks on a frame that I modified the head set to fit 1 1/8 from 1.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

Not finished yet but here is a pic of CDH 1 1/8 suspension forks on a frame that I modified the head set to fit 1 1/8 from 1.

I'm glad you did it and not me...lol...lol...I took the easy way out...lol...lol.

Damn you experts...lol...lol...lol.

 

[robe]

At the time I couldn't find any that would ship to Canada that didn't cost an arm and a leg.
I'm hardly an expert but thanks anyway.

 

[Gordy]

I'm planning on upgrading to a hyper based on @DAMIEN1307 and @Gordy Recommendation.View attachment 234961 I'm currently running a old giant 760 i got used. Its a chrome moly frame with aluminum after market parts its a great riding bike but i don't think its strong enough for the motor. I bought it before i found the forum. Its a dominator 85 bought from CMB (yes I know about CMB now). I had go through and adjust everything. Weirdest thing was there was two gaskets on the already installed intake with one of them being for a 66cc, and there was a weird casting short on the bottom of one of the open transfers. 200 miles on it so far its been going well way more power than I expected can accelerate up a hill with a 325 pounds of me, bike, and tools. I have been running it stock on 20 to 1 for the break in period. I'm currently buying the parts I need for the engine and new frame I have a 21mm PWK carb and carbon fiber intake kit from hybridpowerbikes, and I plan on tearing the motor down adjusting my squish (currently 1.2mm) I may go to the CDH 110 piston and going through it with a degree wheel and porting if nessary (I will definitely need help finding the numbers I need to aim for). I have 12 gauge heavy duty spoked rims and 36 tooth sprocket from gomaxind. I plan on going to disk brake front center pull rear but im open to suggestions. What I'm also hoping someone can help me with is knowing which forks I should buy, (was planning on a triple tree) is the hyper 1inch or 1 1/8 threaded or not, and what pipe would fit best side pipe or belly pipe MZ65 for avenger? I know I'm doing this backwards, but the bike I'm running is currently my daily driver until the snow flies.

I'd suggest using your wheels or getting better ones. And definitely upgrade brakes.

 

[Gordy]

I'm interested in trying one of those dominator engines. They're injection mold instead of sand cast amd have fully open transfers. Much better jug than the avenger. One would be very nice to port

 

[Darwin]

Greetings, Gentle Readers...

I thought that I would share with you my recent experience with the purchase of a new Hyper Cruiser 26"
bicycle. It was ordered from Wally and arrived shortly after at my house in a corrugated cardboard box.
There was no internal damage and the tires still held air from China. Having been poor as a child it was
necessary for me to make my own bicycles out of what I could acquire, so I was not intimidated by having
to assemble it from the box. The following is my experience...

All the parts were there! Nothing missing or deranged in transit. So far so good. But then...

Every possible bearing was overtightened and "crunchy."

So I started with the steering head. The big crown nut was very tight and the "keyed" washer underneath
had sheared the little tab that rides in the groove of the fork so as not to transfer torque to the bearing
adjustment cone was, well, transfering torque to the adjustment cone. This required the use of water pump
pliers to unscrew it. Afterwards it was a straightforward procedure to apply extra high temp grease to the
caged bearings, squeeze the keyed washer some and re-assemble. It adjusted well and would spin several
revolutions when spun by hand.

Moving on to the pedal crank, it was also straightforward. Dis-assemble, grease and re-assemble. The
pedals would spin almost a minute when tested. So far, so good.

Well, let's see about the "crunchy" front wheel. Should be easy, just re-adjust the bearing cones, right?
NO! Hell no! No stamped steel cone wrench would have served the purpose. Oh! I know, I'll just grind a
regular open end wrench to a narrower profile and be able to use that. So with the narrowed wrench in hand
I put another wrench on the cone's locknut. It must have been laughing at me! The other side was no
different. That's OK, I put a torque amplifier on the narrowed wrench and brought out a 1/2" breaker bar
with appropriate socket. Now we'll get some action! And for sure there was action... a jaw on the narrowed
wrench flew about two feet and my fist punched the floor. In my mind I could imagine somebody laughing at me
with a Chinese accent...

"Oh Motor... how you may, how you can now?"

The bearing was still "crunchy." At this point the average Father assembling the bike might have just bolted
the wheel in and said "Ride it slow at first, Son, some machines just need a gentle break-in."

But, if I can build a Harley but not get the bearing right on a bicycle then I will have to re-evaluate my
mechanic skills. This was hurting my feelings not to mention my fist punching the floor.

So I brought out my propane torch and wondered how this would affect my new bike warranty. The torch should help
and I can always just replace the axle and cones if necessary. So I took off the other axle nut and put my
breaker bar on the opposite side locknut. Had a box-end wrench, with appropriate torque amplifier, at the ready
and lit the propane torch and played it on the remaining lock nut. When the grease started to drip some I started
to twist the locknuts apart and it started to move, along with the bearing cone, of course. About the time that
I started to wonder if there was a caged bearing or loose rollers inside I heard three of them fall out. Well,
that answers that question. After turning off the locknut with my brute strength the cone was free to be removed.
Well, after it cooled off, that is...OUCH!

So, after searching for the three ball bearings for a few minutes the cone was removed. The ball bearings were
counted and found to be ten on each side. I rolled the axle and found it to still be straight! After greasing and
re-assembly the wheel would spin a long time when held in the front fork, upside down, of course.

I considered myself fortunate that the cone on the other side was still in place and I did not have to "center"
the wheel on the axle. But now I still have to get a cone wrench to be able to tighten the locknut properly.

That leaves the back wheel still not turning freely but I will leave that for the next installment of this
sorry tale. I am sure that my impacted fist and burned finger will be alright by then.

Motor

You forgot to adjust the brake chain slack. Need to get right on that, capiche?

 

[LewieBike]

I'm planning on upgrading to a hyper based on @DAMIEN1307 and @Gordy Recommendation.View attachment 234961 I'm currently running a old giant 760 i got used. Its a chrome moly frame with aluminum after market parts its a great riding bike but i don't think its strong enough for the motor. I bought it before i found the forum. Its a dominator 85 bought from CMB (yes I know about CMB now). I had go through and adjust everything. Weirdest thing was there was two gaskets on the already installed intake with one of them being for a 66cc, and there was a weird casting short on the bottom of one of the open transfers. 200 miles on it so far its been going well way more power than I expected can accelerate up a hill with a 325 pounds of me, bike, and tools. I have been running it stock on 20 to 1 for the break in period. I'm currently buying the parts I need for the engine and new frame I have a 21mm PWK carb and carbon fiber intake kit from hybridpowerbikes, and I plan on tearing the motor down adjusting my squish (currently 1.2mm) I may go to the CDH 110 piston and going through it with a degree wheel and porting if nessary (I will definitely need help finding the numbers I need to aim for). I have 12 gauge heavy duty spoked rims and 36 tooth sprocket from gomaxind. I plan on going to disk brake front center pull rear but im open to suggestions. What I'm also hoping someone can help me with is knowing which forks I should buy, (was planning on a triple tree) is the hyper 1inch or 1 1/8 threaded or not, and what pipe would fit best side pipe or belly pipe MZ65 for avenger? I know I'm doing this backwards, but the bike I'm running is currently my daily driver until the snow flies.

I'm going to wade into this post because I've been in the bike industry for two decades plus, and I'd first like to say that an early 1990's MTB is exactly the first bike frame I would recommend for a CG kit motorized bike.

That this bike's frame is CroMoly is a plus that should not be dismissed. with the stock brakes I would stay under 25 mph max

These frames are lighter and far stronger than any mild steel cruiser frames. If the fork is also CroMoly, it's an additional plus as these forks and frames are going to work well together for head angle and fork rake and trail.

With the tapered chain, seat and fork tubes, setting these up for disc brakes will be a little trickier. Having some fabrication skills to mount a set of disc brake caliper mounts would be a help, you're going to have to do this with the Hyper cruiser anyways.

Using the already mounted canti rim brakes is better than a single coaster in the back.

The wheels on this bike are also going to be higher quality in bearings, rims, spoke and from factory tensioning. Most bikes from this price point and era came with better grade of stainless steel 14 gauge spokes that are properly interlaced and tensioned. The downside is that a rag-joint sprocket mount on this bike's rear wheel is not a great option to power the bike. Replacing the hub with a disc brake compatible, thread on freewheel rear hub, that is laced up with 13~12 gauge stainless spokes would be best. Once again if the old rims are still in good shape, they will be better quality than the rims you could get from some motorized bike parts supplier place like BikeBerry. They will need to be professionally re-assembled.

 

[Dogsoldier]

I know everyone likes and prefers steel frames, except me! I personally prefer the aluminum tank frames. Any material will crack and brake under the right conditions, vibration is a cruel b**ch in the mechanical world. My build #3 has the minimum gussets at what I believe to be the major stress points and has never shown no separation or cracking at 65+ mph. My build #4 was tested with an accelerometer and a chladni plate and showed exactly where stress points were. I then decided to gusset these places extensively! Even with the additional gussets it still weighs less than steel and just as safe, in my opinion. The main thing is, I trust it. This build should be a 70+ mph easy.

 

[DAMIEN1307]

This build should be a 70+ mph easy.

Better you than me...lol...lol...lol.

70+ on a bicycle with me on it ???...lol...That is Soooooo not happening...lol.

 

[Dogsoldier]

Better you than me...lol...lol...lol.

70+ on a bicycle with me on it ???...lol...That is Soooooo not happening...lol.

That won’t happen on any public road, only on a closed runway. 30-35 on roads.