One rubber on ragjoint work?

[extremeodd]

Here is what happens to your spokes after just a month or two of running with no outer rubber ring. Ignore the broken spokes they were from a separate issue.

 

[LewieBike]

If you look careully I'm running chunks of the rubber rag-joint material on both sides of the left hub flange, in addition to the bolts passing through doughnuts of rubber fuel hose in the hub flange holes. There is no contact at all with the spokes to the sprocket. The sprocket is isolated from the hubflange and has a tiny bit of flex and give, much like a full size motorcycle has with a sprocket cush drive, except much lighter and less complex...

 

[Frogslayer]

Holy smokes you just made me think that if a company could make a shaft drive kit for MAB, like a lighter version of a shaft drive for a motorcycle, it could be ultra smooth and quiet, ultra reliable, transfer mad amounts of power, and allow for rear suspension. Would probably be expensive and require a rim that's made for it. Maybe there's not even enough room? Just spit ballin.

 

[Frogslayer]

Actually, as i take another toke, that is stupid. An old way of thinking. Novelty. Just go electric and be done with drive train issues entirely.

 

[LewieBike]

Actually, as i take another toke, that is stupid. An old way of thinking. Novelty. Just go electric and be done with drive train issues entirely.

I don't have over $2000 to buy a decent electric bike, and my bike is lighter and can go farther than a 48v 16 amp hour capacity E-bike.

Plus I get the satisfaction of knowing everything on my bike and being able to troubleshoot issues, Good luck with your battery powered bike.

 

[daveet66]

- first- breath. You started this thread about 24 hrs ago. Take a step back and do something else, read a book, go for a run, have a beer, pick some corn, watch Russian pole dancer videos, anything but wrenching on your bike.

You don’t have to be a mechanic, you need patience. That stupid sprocket is the worst part of this whole process- many MANY people get super frustrated with that- it’s not just you. You can do some other things before returning to the sprocket hassle.

The adapter and sprocket can be had for 30-40 bucks- yes it sucks to fork over maybe 200 just to find out you need to pay more. Some guys get by with the rag joint others need the adapter- like I did.

Do post pictures- detail what you have trouble with- and answers will come. I’m still rather new here but if you humbly accept help, folks are eager to help. You are joining a relatively small community- they (dare I say we) want to see it grow and thrive, and you sir are going to help make that happen.

Don’t make decisions when you are angry, or hungry, or tired, or lonely. Give it at Least 24hrs, then think it through after a good nights sleep.

You can do this!

Got ya doc yeah I appreciate the advice and your right gonna keep at it till I get it right!

 

[daveet66]

Ok guys gonna try this one more time I got nuts hand tightened these are only tools I have to work with! What is the key to getting everything tightened evenly?

 

[LewieBike]

Ok guys gonna try this one more time I got nuts hand tightened these are only tools I have to work with! What is the key to getting everything tightened evenly?

There's a youtube channel: The Project Farm where the host built a HT engined bike, he used medium sized cable ties to space the sprocket center to the left hub flange's bearing housing. The nutted side should always be inside the spokes, looks good so far

 

[daveet66]

There's a youtube channel: The Project Farm where the host built a HT engined bike, he used medium sized cable ties to space the sprocket center to the left hub flange's bearing housing. The nutted side should always be inside the spokes, looks good so far

The nuts are on the inside

 

[Greg58]

Dave, I turn the bike upside down and tighten the bolts evenly till snug, then spin the wheel watching for run out, I find the spot that need tightening and adjust. Keep this up till it spins true.