Ordering T-66/80cc replacement Motor Tips?

[Philandra Chambliss]

unless you weigh about 300 pounds, it sounds like your motor isn't running properly

Which is why the blocks going in the garbage.

New motor time,

 

[crassius]

then I'd not change sprocket or anything else until you see how the new one runs

 

[Philandra Chambliss]

then I'd not change sprocket or anything else until you see how the new one runs

Now let me be honest my last issue is the same issue, that im having as well i am considering a braze repair, clipping a small piece of rod off inside the failed area then braze around it, and yes its that failed bolt ~,~ it re stripped the helicoiled threads.

yeah i know i got skepticism coming my way but at the end of the day cutting budget is what its all about.

Im tired, and my vehicle is always under budget against its will.

 

[Philandra Chambliss]

then I'd not change sprocket or anything else until you see how the new one runs

Hey crass so I cut a deal with the lady devil, *hints marriage joke*

Anyway, so I decided to buy the full 80cc kit replace the cylinder and fix the old stud and throw the old kit on another bike do you have any cons that may determine rather why I should stay at 50cc or go with the 80cc?

At best I could keep the old kit for a custom build as a rat rod off road racer, I have the old bike still as well and would be great for off road fooling around....

Possibly filling the damaged drop outs with with quiksteel fallowed by collard brazing to keep budget low possibly thinking 2wd between the Briggs and the 50cc hogged out.

 

[crassius]

I never recommend the small motors - I only sell the 40mm stroke 70cc type now - one can always add a sticker saying 49cc to it.

 

[Philandra Chambliss]

I never recommend the small motors - I only sell the 40mm stroke 70cc type now - one can always add a sticker saying 49cc to it.

For that I might as well put in for the 49cc hard backed covers that say 49cc I've been looking at bike berry stuff but we know those reviews are fixed so I went to Amazon and most of their products are 3 1/2 stars I feel that it's best not go waste on any kit cause at the end of the day it's all the sang same already eBay is the lowest in price.

I have only decided to put in for a whole kit so I can have the extra parts which interchange between 48cc-66/80cc kit the only parts non interchangeable are the piston and jugs excluding the cylinder head and gasket.

If I also swap to a puch head using 2-3 head/base gaskets I could experiment with the old motor.


From what is known between YouTube members as shown:

2 stroke stuffing

&

JuiceMotoparts

The top end for that which is considered a high CR head on our bikes is by far the cheapest MOD next to the bbr and the RSS heads.

Where problems arise is that our stock heads have about a 9-10cc head liquid volume test as shown by juiced motor parts.

Mean while the tomos, puch, garnelli, and similar heads of its time have a 7cc volume capacity.

The fitment is proven accurate by .200 via micrometer as demonstrated by 2 stroke stuffing

Stock: 54mm

Puch etc brands under that listing 54.2mm


As stated in earlier postee/ers posts the compression for our motors is safest at 178 PSI of compression BUT most two strokes range at 150- 200PSI PER HEAD GASKET is about 20-50 PSI pressure drop.

One could also in theory install a polini minarelli nos dished piston to compensate the 2-3 cc loss in volume and drop that rate off at 8.5-9.0cc