Outfitting That Rugged Worksman Wheel

[Hal the Elder]

HEY!

I'm really impressed at the construction of my new 26" Worksman Coaster Brake Wheel!

As for installing the sheave, I can use a drill shank as an arbor for opening up the pockets for clamping the sheave to the spokes, but if I use an arbor of the same diameter as the spokes (#31 drill bit, 0.120"), there won't be much grip, so I can use a slightly smaller shank to assure that the clamps will exert some pressure on the spokes when tightened.

I can go to a #32 (0.116"), a #33 (0.113"), a #34 (0.111"), or a #35 (0.110"), or even smaller. What do you think? I would just force open the pockets by tapping the drill shank into them with a hammer.

Also, don't you think it would be better to mount the tire before installing the sheave?

As for installing the sheave, I was thinking of using a large round trash can as a working support.

All tips will be appreciated!

HAL

 

[RdKryton]

Hi Hal
You must be very careful not the nick the spokes with a clip that is too tight. I think you will see it will be a perfect with the #31 drill. Maybe Quenton will be able to shed more light on this for you. I don't think mounting the tire first will make any difference.

Jim

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Hal,
There are several ways to center the sheave. I have a special fixture to center my wheels. I have been told to loosen the screws, start the motor and the sheave will center itself. I have never had any luck with that method. If you want a very easy way, mount the wheel in the frame, wrap a piece of wire [coat hanger works well]around the frame and use it as a guide to center the sheeve.

Have fun,

 

[Hal the Elder]

How 'bout this method?

With wheel atop large round trash can, use 6" machinist's rule to obtain equidistant spacing between sheave and rim at all 9 points.

I checked the wheel while rotating in the bike frame...there's no radial or lateral runout...it runs true. (Thanks, Worksman!)

HAL

 

[RdKryton]

That should work.

Jim