Over time my bucking bar's engagement point changes and the clutch slips, turning the flower nut forward then back fixes it...

[extremeodd]

So I've been having a rather odd issue with my Zeda 80 ever since I got it. After you get the clutch flower nut and cable in the perfect spots, the engagement point of the bucking bar starts shifting "inwards" like the flower nut is unwinding. I'll first notice it when the rear tire starts getting a little power will the clutch handle all of the way in (but if I roll forwards or backwards about 6in to a ft itll stop. You can have the bike on the stand, engine started, clutch lever full in and if you rotate the tire there are certain points where it'll start to grab and get driven by the motor) then the clutch will slip a little when trying to pedal start the bike. When it is at it's worst, the bucking bar will have a ton of play. Then if I simply pull the clutch cover, remove the set screw and adjust the nut out a full turn or so then back in everything "pops" back into place. The bucking bar will suddenly have no play in it at all and no matter the rear tires position, with the clutch lever held it never gets driven.

Any ideas what might be causing this? When it gets to the weird point again (give it a few days) I'll record a video of it happening along with how it suddenly stops with the flower nut adjustment. I'm almost to the point of just drilling an access hole in the clutch cover to make this a faster fix.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

My first thought is insufficient lubrication.

 

[Spare_Parts]

Well could be the cam on the actuating lever is worn, the bucking bar has a divot or the rod on the other side of the bearing has a divot. Even the sprocket cover wears out. These parts need high pressure grease. Once they start to wear they wear faster.

 

[extremeodd]

The bucking bar is in excellent shape, like I said the problem 100% gets fixed when I loosen and tighten the flower nut. FurryOnTheInside is probably on the right track with insufficient lubrication. It seems like over time the shaft that the bucking bar moves doesn't return fully due to binding or something.

 

[Lukesky36]

Did you put the return spring on that goes on the cable the little one? and also is the screw that holds the flower nut secure there?

 

[Spare_Parts]

You don't need the spring on the cable.

 

[extremeodd]

I should clarify as I just remembered that the bucking bar and the shaft with the flat spot are 2 dfferent pieces. I was referencing the shaft within the motor that pushes the clutch plate. Also with the clutch disengaged, should that geared wheel with the clutch pads have play? Mine has a fair bit or rotational and in/out play which all goes away when the clutch is engaged.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

I should clarify as I just remembered that the bucking bar and the shaft with the flat spot are 2 dfferent pieces. I was referencing the shaft within the motor that pushes the clutch plate. Also with the clutch disengaged, should that geared wheel with the clutch pads have play? Mine has a fair bit or rotational and in/out play which all goes away when the clutch is engaged.

Ideally it wouldn't but they generally do have play in the bearing.

 

[Lukesky36]

You don't need the spring on the cable.

Unless you ride in the winter and the motor melts the snow and it gets in the cam near the bucking bar when it freezes over and gets stuck i learned that the hard way the spring does help it a lot in that situation

 

[extremeodd]

Thank god for that Arizona sunshine. Easily 360+ rideable days, 365 if you don't mind riding in a monsoon or hurricane remnants.

Strangely now that I've left my cover off to make this repair easier, it doesn't seem to be reforming... I think it knows I mean business now. This issue had me most of the way to installing a centrifugal clutch kit (I still might, its only $50 and shouldn't require TOO much "clearancing of the crank" with a grinder) just to reduce how often the bucking bar even gets touched.

EDIT: Well, spoke too soon. Rode 14 miles with my neighbor yesterday and when I went to ride today the problem was back. Also found out that running without a cover when your fuel line has a slow drip will get fuel/oil onto the clutch pads, makes them slip like crazy for a bit. Tried the standard trick to get it to "reset" which failed, seems like this time the cable slipped some. I'm just going to accept that this motor will require fiddling with the clutch once a week, not a big deal.