Overall...When these are running properly..are they as safe.



As say...a moped for riding in the city traffic?

I want something that I can do 35 mph on, I AM willing to wait for break-in, but I want something that can do 35 mph safely on.

Will this bike work for it? Will I need to get the 36 tooth Sprocket?

How safe will my bike be? I have a V-brakes, are they safe enough to stop me from higher speeds? Or not.. The thing is, there are roads here labeled 35 mph, and I would like to keep up.

Thanks for your info. I already have the kit and I am assembling it currently. I use to have it on another bike, but it would take forever to start, and throttle went in and out as it pleased. I want something reliable, and granted I changed the positiion of the carborator and stuff.

I have a small motor mechanic who repairs cycles, mopeds, snowmobiles, dirt bikes, and atv's that is willing to look at it and fine tune it. Would you trust it to be safe if I keep it in good condition?

Can I get it to idle properly?

I am still confused about how idling works on this motor. If I peddle it up to speed, and pop the clutch, and the motor starts, then if I approach a stop sign, should I just leave the clutch out and motor engaged? Should it stay idling, and then I can just twist throttle and go? or do I need to pull the clutch lever back in, (usually when I did this, engine just turned off...didn't idle), and then peddle back up to speed and pop clutch again?

I don't know what I am looking to do.

Any comments would be greatly appreciated, and btw...my kit is on a Schwinn High Sierra 26" Mountain Bike.
these things are very much like motorcycles, some mc experience is alway helpful but not necessary.

the clutch is either "engaged" ie the torque is being applied from the engine to the rear wheel, or "disengaged" ie the engine is idling but not driving the back wheel. let out the clutch-lever to engage, pull the clutch-lever to disengage.

to start the bike: disengage the clutch, start pedaling up to speed, pop the clutch (rapidly engage it), the torque from the rear wheel will turn the engine over and start it running.

to take off under power: start pedaling, increase the throttle while slowly engaging the clutch. this WILL get easier to do with experience.

to stop or slow down: decrease the throttle, disengage the clutch and lock it, use your brakes to slow down or stop.

to idle in place: disengage the clutch and release the throttle, lock the clutch lever for extended stops.

now, another thing about a motorized bicycle being like a motorcycle is USE YOUR HEAD: be safe, don't go faster than your brakes can safely stop you, always assume you'll need to stop NOW. in traffic, that's the only way to be...save the wilding for open roads.

TIP: disengage the clutch while slowing or stopping. only an experienced rider should use the engine as a braking force, these 2-strokers easily stall under hard braking and will stop you on a dime. guess what, then? hint: an aerial view of your handlebars usually means you just flew over them, get ready for an owie :eek:

hope that was helpful, if i missed anything, someone else will surely fill you in 8)
Thanks for the insight.

The issue I had is that my engine would never idle.

When I would pull the clutch lever in, it would just totally kill engine, so I would have to take off from a dead stop.

I am just curious, if it is idling with clutch disengaged (pulled in) at a stop sign, can you just then put out the clutch and accelerate, or do you need to pedal? If the engine is already running, can you start from stand-still, or do you need to peddle up to 5 miles an hour again, and pop clutch?

I mean I know if you peddle, much faster acceleration, but it is required to start moving?

Yes it does idle at a stop with the clutch disengaged. Since there is no real transmission with gears you do want to pedal up to about 5 MPH and the let out the clutch even when taking off from an idle.
you can get up to about 30 with a stock 55cc, maybe 35. i have a completely stock 80cc kit on one of my bikes and it goes about 30 to 35 easy. i ride in traffic almost at a daily basis on my other bike with a 36t sproket and can get up to 40 to 45, i beat cars accross town or most of the way there, rush hour there isant a chance to keep up with me.
as i recall, the idling problem was about having the carb sideways, correct?

well, when built right, they will idle very nicely, screw the idle screw all the way in, then back off about 4 turns, that'll get ya started, then tune the idle for your conditions.

when stopped and idling, simply start to pedal & as you gain speed you can slowly (or quickly, hehe) hit the throttle & release (engage) the clutch.
ok well maybe this is why I'm having my engine locking problems because sometimes I stop at a light or stop sign, pull in the clutch, then just pop the clutch and revv up the throttle to get going again - I don't always peddle to get started again...
that's a real possibility, 'sideswipe, your feet have to be 1st & 2nd gear 8)
Do they make left-side derailers?

Cause if so..that would be the most kick ass motor bike ever.

Flip a bicycle tire around, rather than have the 44 tooth sprocket, and then just have a shifter. It would have 5 gears, that would kick ass. No pedaling required then. :)
there has to be a way to rig up a left side gear but it doesn't seem safe to me now that I think about it - my bike gears slip out all the time but at 5 or 6 mph not at 30 mph...