I was curious about what needed to be done to get that head to work. Now I know, thanks. Do you happen to know the thickness of the a35 head?Gary nailed it as always, but one small thing to add:
If you are running the stock head, you can fix the crush ring using an old piston attached to a drill and some sand paper. I just stuck a bolt through the wrist pin hole of an old piston, welded a stud to it. then put it in a drill in a vice. Taped a strip of sandpaper to the top, then lock it running and gently place the head on top and it will properly shape and clearance the head you can zero deck it and get your ideal squish. With a CNC head you can just mount an old plug in the head and attach to that to spin the head and hold the piston, but you can't do that with a stock slant head for obvious reasons lol.
This is what I did to properly run an A35 moped head, since the tiny stock chamber would physically hit the piston unless I used two head gaskets. Now it matches perfectly (stock on left after removing the little ridges, modded on right). Cools better than the CNC head did and stock length b6hs plug won't shroud in the thread like some of the knockoff CNC heads do.
View attachment 88750
I did something similar with a bolt in a hole drilled through the top center of a piston. Then I bolted the head that had a bad squish angle to a old cylinder, lightly oiled the piston and cyl. and used a drill on the bolt to shape the chamber. That was my answer to no drill press. You could look in the cyl when bolting up the head to see how centered the chamber was. I think I got the idea from Steve Best in 1 of his head experiment posts.Gary nailed it as always, but one small thing to add:
If you are running the stock head, you can fix the crush ring using an old piston attached to a drill and some sand paper. I just stuck a bolt through the wrist pin hole of an old piston, welded a stud to it. then put it in a drill in a vice. Taped a strip of sandpaper to the top, then lock it running and gently place the head on top and it will properly shape and clearance the head you can zero deck it and get your ideal squish. With a CNC head you can just mount an old plug in the head and attach to that to spin the head and hold the piston, but you can't do that with a stock slant head for obvious reasons lol.
This is what I did to properly run an A35 moped head, since the tiny stock chamber would physically hit the piston unless I used two head gaskets. Now it matches perfectly (stock on left after removing the little ridges, modded on right). Cools better than the CNC head did and stock length b6hs plug won't shroud in the thread like some of the knockoff CNC heads do.
View attachment 88750
In which direction? Quick rough measurement and total height with fins tapers from just under 2" in the front to 2.7" in the rear. Mine is decked roughly 1mm to keep chamber volume down after increasing the squish taper. I can grab the calipers for a more exact measurement in mm if you'd like.I was curious about what needed to be done to get that head to work. Now I know, thanks. Do you happen to know the thickness of the a35 head?
Just a rough estimate is good. I'm limited for clearance so I just needed a rough guesstimate to see if it's even worth trying. Thanks a bunchIn which direction? Quick rough measurement and total height with fins tapers from just under 2" in the front to 2.7" in the rear. Mine is decked roughly 1mm to keep chamber volume down after increasing the squish taper. I can grab the calipers for a more exact measurement in mm if you'd like.
Its huge, so if you already have an expansion pipe it will likely need modding to fit. I did the head before I did my pipe so just worked around it. Downside is that pipe has to come off to remove head.
Lol im pretty sure it's not going to fit on this bike. Maybe for the next bike tho.Damn you Chris, you cant run that head! I was planning on getting one for the new engine to keep the heat down. Maybe even mount it sideways lol.