Pending future build.

I suppose I'll consider this more of what I have planned and add to it as it all begins to happen... I'm still unsure as to what bike style I'd like to go with but I am fairly certain as to the motor id like to start of with.

The Zeda motors stand out for me on a personal level and I think I can accomplish some good things given some of the specs and features they claim.. After having seen some videos of these motors in action I'm fairly sold....Pricing is around $130 from the zeda website for the kit and that's plenty fair compared to some $100 plus engines I've seen with far less features out of the box.

The motor will be upgraded in stages with first utilizing as much of the stock components as possible to see how far i can personally take it.

So far this is my plan for the motor after its received.

1.) Disassemble, inspect and thoroughly clean everything up in the bottom end then Lube where needed and reassemble.

2.) A light resurfacing to the case, jug, head, as well as the carb mounting surface to ensure everything is flat and seals up good.

3.) Break in the motor then replace the plug and tune the carburetor to see how it does.. I want zero 4 stroking with clean throttle response and power as my first goal.


To be continued.

 

[6blueoval9]

I'm a bit bored so I'm here typing my mind and I've been thinking about how I'm going to start the stages of mods to this motor in the future.

I'm adding a step to the above before even the break in period.

I dont personally have the tools to do a proper crank balancing and truing but I'm sure I could find a local speed shop that can do this for me.

My thoughts are this; it's not really a performance MOD in my mind.. It is the way it should've been done to begin with or at least to a lesser degree of off balance.

Lets look at it as if a high end company was manufacturing these engines and not a low quality factory over seas... would Yamaha or Honda put out a reciprocating assembly like these motors have... I think not.

So,as part of the first stage of this motor I'm adding the crank work as part of being "stock".

I may also have the connecting rod shot peened for some added strength all though I don't hear much on rod failure...No performance gains here but maybe a little more insurance against rod failure.

At this point I guess I would be sort of ready for a break in after reassembly..Even though I've read you can get a Stock NT carb to work fairly well I'm not so sure this is for a 69cc motor so much as it is for a 49cc motor...ill also pass on the "Speed" NT carb. ..I want full tuning capabilities and it just doesn't have tuning features i want to tune the motor so my first upgrade will consist of a Mikuni VM16 carburetor to fine tune the otherwise stock motor.

No porting.. No exhaust or intake manifold upgrades.. No increased compression.. No cdi upgrades.

In my mind this is what the motor should've been stock... Properly balanced with a capable carburetor...So these changes will represent what I consider proper stock and I'll move along from here.

I'll ramble more later as to what would be happening next at a different time.. I'll be enjoying a full weekend off after 65 hours of work this week.

As Zeda gets closer to receiving there new batch of motors around the 22nd I'll be placing my order for the kit.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

What are you doing for the flange mount? 48mm hole spacing so our kit parts don't fit.. do you weld? oh wait, dragonfly75.com (Jaguar) said JNMotors does a manifold to fit the VM18 so that's probably the same spacing.

 

[gary55]

I'm a bit bored so I'm here typing my mind and I've been thinking about how I'm going to start the stages of mods to this motor in the future.

I'm adding a step to the above before even the break in period.

I dont personally have the tools to do a proper crank balancing and truing but I'm sure I could find a local speed shop that can do this for me.

My thoughts are this; it's not really a performance MOD in my mind.. It is the way it should've been done to begin with or at least to a lesser degree of off balance.

Lets look at it as if a high end company was manufacturing these engines and not a low quality factory over seas... would Yamaha or Honda put out a reciprocating assembly like these motors have... I think not.

So,as part of the first stage of this motor I'm adding the crank work as part of being "stock".

I may also have the connecting rod shot peened for some added strength all though I don't hear much on rod failure...No performance gains here but maybe a little more insurance against rod failure.

At this point I guess I would be sort of ready for a break in after reassembly..Even though I've read you can get a Stock NT carb to work fairly well I'm not so sure this is for a 69cc motor so much as it is for a 49cc motor...ill also pass on the "Speed" NT carb. ..I want full tuning capabilities and it just doesn't have tuning features i want to tune the motor so my first upgrade will consist of a Mikuni VM16 carburetor to fine tune the otherwise stock motor.

No porting.. No exhaust or intake manifold upgrades.. No increased compression.. No cdi upgrades.

In my mind this is what the motor should've been stock... Properly balanced with a capable carburetor...So these changes will represent what I consider proper stock and I'll move along from here.

I'll ramble more later as to what would be happening next at a different time.. I'll be enjoying a full weekend off after 65 hours of work this week.

As Zeda gets closer to receiving there new batch of motors around the 22nd I'll be placing my order for the kit.

Good luck with that. Good idea to go with stock Zeda. If you think the vm16 is going to be easier to tune than the stock nt on a stock engine I will be interested in your results. The nt is perfectly capable on a stock engine, and a shot peen rod with advanced balancing of the crank on a otherwise stock engine is nonsense. All of these thing you think a engine should be are valid. You just can't expect them for 130 bucks.

 

[6blueoval9]

Good luck with that. Good idea to go with stock Zeda. If you think the vm16 is going to be easier to tune than the stock nt on a stock engine I will be interested in your results. The nt is perfectly capable on a stock engine, and a shot peen rod with advanced balancing of the crank on a otherwise stock engine is nonsense. All of these thing you think a engine should be are valid. You just can't expect them for 130 bucks.

I'm not after "easier" to tune. Im wanting something with better tuning capabilities as I mentioned...Im not keeping the motor stock forever ...The plan is to break it in and see what it's capable of before moving on to more basic and advanced modifications but im doing so in steps instead of doing everything at once.

Prepping the motor for future upgrades I don't personally see as being nonsense.

I was going to add that ill be replacing all of the stock bearings as well from the start..SKF bearings for the crank, Stihl bearing for the upper rod and I'm not quite sure for the big end of the rod just yet.

Does anyone know where to get a quality upgrade bearing for the big end?

 

[gary55]

I'm not after "easier" to tune. Im wanting something with better tuning capabilities as I mentioned...Im not keeping the motor stock forever ...The plan is to break it in and see what it's capable of before moving on to more basic and advanced modifications but im doing so in steps instead of doing everything at once.

Prepping the motor for future upgrades I don't personally see as being nonsense.

I was going to add that ill be replacing all of the stock bearings as well from the start..SKF bearings for the crank, Stihl bearing for the upper rod and I'm not quite sure for the big end of the rod just yet.

Does anyone know where to get a quality upgrade bearing for the big end?

Sounds like a good method. The shot peening threw me.

 

[6blueoval9]

I've never seen shot peening mentioned before on these small motors or see really anything in the way of rod prep other than a bevel or chamfer for better oiling which is common even on rc motors.

I'm also going to radius any of the Sharper edges to help eliminate any stress crack which typically form from a sharp edge.

I thought about knife edging also but then realized this isn't a rc nitro motor where air has to pass around the rod to get into the motor.. Lol

I just want a solid reliable bottom end to work with.

I'm still having a hard time finding a source for a better quality lower rod bearing.. Any suggestions?..and where do I find better case seals?

 

[gary55]

I've never seen shot peening mentioned before on these small motors or see really anything in the way of rod prep other than a bevel or chamfer for better oiling which is common even on rc motors.

I'm also going to radius any of the Sharper edges to help eliminate any stress crack which typically form from a sharp edge.

I thought about knife edging also but then realized this isn't a rc nitro motor where air has to pass around the rod to get into the motor.. Lol

I just want a solid reliable bottom end to work with.

I'm still having a hard time finding a source for a better quality lower rod bearing.. Any suggestions?..and where do I find better case seals?

Hopefully some of the others will chime in on your bearing search. I have never pressed the journal out of the crank to replace the big end bearing, or even replaced those in the case. Some here do though. The bearing failures I generally see are at the wrist pin. The bottom end bearing problems that I have seen were always caused by something going south in the top end.

 

[Street Ryderz]

I'm not after "easier" to tune. Im wanting something with better tuning capabilities as I mentioned...Im not keeping the motor stock forever ...The plan is to break it in and see what it's capable of before moving on to more basic and advanced modifications but im doing so in steps instead of doing everything at once.

Prepping the motor for future upgrades I don't personally see as being nonsense.

I was going to add that ill be replacing all of the stock bearings as well from the start..SKF bearings for the crank, Stihl bearing for the upper rod and I'm not quite sure for the big end of the rod just yet.

Does anyone know where to get a quality upgrade bearing for the big end?

The big end bearing is not a commen one and may take some searching it's a 17x21x10 caged roller bearing and can be found here Bearings Canada.com Also hope your awear that crank services at most shops will cost more than the engine hence why they are concidered disposable engines.I do knife edge the rod mostly to aid in weight reduction and in the balence of complete assembly also to reduce the turbulance as the rod is expossed to the a/f passing thru the case.

 

[6blueoval9]

The big end bearing is not a commen one and may take some searching it's a 17x21x10 caged roller bearing and can be found here Bearings Canada.com Also hope your awear that crank services at most shops will cost more than the engine hence why they are concidered disposable engines.I do knife edge the rod mostly to aid in weight reduction and in the balence of complete assembly also to reduce the turbulance as the rod is expossed to the a/f passing thru the case.

They aren't 16x21x10?