Phantom 85 v3 WONT WORK, OUT OF IDEAS

Chris117

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I CREATED AN ACOUNT AFTER READING THROUGH A BUNCH OF FORUMS JUST TO POST THIS. I FEEL LIKE IVE CHECKED EVERYTHING!!
From the CDI to spark plug to magneto to the magnet position at 1 o’clock TDC, I’ve checked and messed around with the carburetor and the needle and seat and float aswell as air leaks but nothings working!!!!
My magneto coil has 330 ohms my CDI has 6.9k ohms. I’ve got a good ground and I clipped the white wire to where there’s no chance of shorting. I flipped the magnet and got it to “start” but really it just backfired all the time with short bursts of acceleration but in the few times I got that far it was quickly killed with more air or fuel. It was more likely to start when I drained some gas from the float reserve and closing the fuel pet cock but then it would die when I opened it back up, and if I didn’t it would still die from no more fuel. I JUST CANT WIN. Upon talking to customer service about it they said that having the magnet the way I flipped would cause back fire and damage to the motor but having it the correct yields no results. And they’ve stopped answering me. I’ve inspected all gaps and even tried draining the fuel in the crank case. the only thing I haven’t tried was replacing the magnet. I know I have compression because the spark whole sucks my finger when clutch is engaged. Speaking of which when I’m moving and engage the clutch 1/2 of the time my back tire just completely locks up and skids until it slows down and actually lets the engine turn over WHAT THE HELL IS MY PROBLEM???
 
I’ve suspected the head gasket might be leaking from it being wet and locktight seeping through, my spark pluck was wet so I though my engine was flooded, and gas would drip out of the muffler. I have air, spark and compression. But no IGNITION.
 

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I’ve suspected the head gasket might be leaking from it being wet
I really hope yout talking the 2 bottom gaskets being wet since the Phantom does not have a separate head gasket because it is a one piece cylinder design.

I also hope you threw out that junk Chinese Z Series spark plug and replaced it with a decent NGK-BR6HS...The Z plugs even when showing spark are well known for failure to start these motors.
 
I'm not sure what you're saying when you said you drained the crank case of gas?
Sounds like it’s heavily flooded.
Oil will accumulate in the case if an engine has fuel being pumped in and not burned.

Torque the head bolts. If the base gasket is leaking the head bolts may need torquing. Torque to 12 ft lbs or 144 inch pounds. Don’t guess here. Torque it with a torque wrench.

With the piston at very top..top dead center.. the magnet should be exactly like the photo posted above. If this is correct and you’re sure the woodruff key is in the slot… put the washer and nut on.

Put the magneto back on and set the spacing.

You checked the cdi and magneto.. both readings correct.

Take the spark plug out, spray the spark plug with something like carb cleaner or blow it dry with compressed air to clean it.

With the fuel off at the petcock and plug out, hold the throttle open and spin the engine over a minute or two to clear it.


Put the spark plug in the plug cap.. wire coming from cdi…and lay the metal part of the spark plug on the engine top…metal spark plug grounded to metal engine cylinder.

Turn the engine over…spin it..and prove the spark plug fires a blue spark.

If that’s all good..put the spark plug back in and be sure the carb is on fully and tight.
Fuel line run from petcock to filter to carb with no leaks..turn the petcock to the on position.

The choke lever on the carb.. put the choke to the ON position and try to start the engine. If it doesn’t start or pop rather quickly.. turn the choke off and try starting it some more.

A new engine.. you may have to pedal and get a good bit of speed going before releasing the clutch.

New engines are tight and need some extra persuasion to get it spinning over.

It should start or at least make an effort to start.
If all the above is as listed, fuel/oil/mixture may be an issue.
 
Oil will accumulate in the case if an engine has fuel being pumped in and not burned.
Oil is supposed to accumulate in the case for lubrication purpose of the crank bearings as well as the piston needle valve bearing and lubing the cylinder, rings, etc....The fuel burns off leaving the oil behind on these parts because 2 stroke oil is formulated and designed for this very purpose.
 
I really hope yout talking the 2 bottom gaskets being wet since the Phantom does not have a separate head gasket because it is a one piece cylinder design.

I also hope you threw out that junk Chinese Z Series spark plug and replaced it with a decent NGK-BR6HS...The Z plugs even when showing spark are well known for failure to start these motors.
Ok I ordered another magnet as everytime I’d mess with it; the magneto didn’t seem to fight me and was easy to move, I’ll get a better spark plug I fully believe Chinese junk won’t do. Also I think this kit only came with one bottom gasket.
 
Sounds like it’s heavily flooded.
Oil will accumulate in the case if an engine has fuel being pumped in and not burned.

Torque the head bolts. If the base gasket is leaking the head bolts may need torquing. Torque to 12 ft lbs or 144 inch pounds. Don’t guess here. Torque it with a torque wrench.

With the piston at very top..top dead center.. the magnet should be exactly like the photo posted above. If this is correct and you’re sure the woodruff key is in the slot… put the washer and nut on.

Put the magneto bs k on and set the spacing.

You checked the cdi and magneto.. both readings correct.

Take the plug out, spray with something like carb cleaner or blow it dry with compressed air to clean it.

With the fuel off at the petcock and plug out, hold the throttle open and spin the engine over a minute or two to clear it.


Put the plug in the plug cap.. wire coming from cdi…and lay the metal part of th plug on the engine top…metal plug grounded to metal engine cylinder.

Turn the engine over…spin it..and prove the plug fires a blue spark.

If that’s all good..put the spark plug ba k in and be sure the carb is on fully and tight.
Fuel line run from petcock to filter to carb with no leaks..turn the petcock to the on position.

The choke lever on the carb.. put the choke to the on position and try to start the engine. If it doesn’t start or pop rather quickly.. turn the choke off and try starting it some more.

A new engine.. you may have to pedal and get a good bit of speed going before releasing the clutch.

New engines are tight and need some extra persuasion to get it spinning over.

It should start or at least make an effort to start.
Of all the above is as listed fuel/oil/mixture may be an issue.
Ok I’ll use my brothers torque wrench, I stripped 2 of the acorn nuts and have replaced them with regular nuts. The stopping of the back tire is annoying and wears my tire out fast but if you say it’ll settle than ok, are you saying spray the spark plug or inside the piston housing with cleaner?
 
I'm not sure what you're saying when you said you drained the crank case of gas?
I just about tried everything and was getting desperate, figured it was flooding and the spark plug wasn’t gonna ignite all that fuel so I took off the exausht engaged clutch and watched mist be pushed out of the exausht port.
 
I was telling to spray the spark plug to clean any oil residue off the electrode.

Do not spray cleaner into the engine.
 
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