Phantom 85 v3 WONT WORK, OUT OF IDEAS

Nope, E3-32, same as what you put in your Predator 212...lol.

There is also this reason in the URL link below as to why I do not recommend or use E3 plugs whatsoever.

Ahh, ok.
 
I really hope yout talking the 2 bottom gaskets being wet since the Phantom does not have a separate head gasket because it is a one piece cylinder design.

I also hope you threw out that junk Chinese Z Series spark plug and replaced it with a decent NGK-BR6HS...The Z plugs even when showing spark are well known for failure to start these motors.
So as it turns out my magneto stator was wrong everytime I messed with it, I flipped it over to where you could see the solder and it started and ran well, except now while I was riding at low speed the engine “popped” and then cut out and won’t turn on again, any help??
 
The mix is right, but try not to use too much ethanol fuel. The engine seals will deteriorate on you.
So as it turns out my magneto stator was wrong everytime I messed with it, I flipped it over to where you could see the solder and it started and ran well, except now while I was riding at low speed the engine “popped” and then cut out and won’t turn on again, any help?? I see a little bit of oil dripping from the body gasket just below the exausht
 
I’d look close at the magneto wires.
If it was on flipped there’s a chance one or both of the wires could have damaged insulation.
Also be sure the spacing around the magnet/magneto is there and same for top and bottom.
 
So as it turns out my magneto stator was wrong everytime I messed with it, I flipped it over to where you could see the solder and it started and ran well, except now while I was riding at low speed the engine “popped” and then cut out and won’t turn on again, any help?? I see a little bit of oil dripping from the body gasket just below the exausht
The oil could be from a slightly cracked exhaust gasket and the oil is running down. All of a sudden, the whole bottom of the gasket will blow out.

There are lots of adjustments to be made and things to look into on new build, the first 300 miles or so are pretty rough on novice builders. Then things start tightening up and it gets better. A messed up case seal is the worse leak that is hard to find.
 
I had the same issue with my very first bicycle engine. It took me weeks to figure out that the woodruff key was missing. I was getting air, spark and fuel but still no start. I thought I read that someone commented that already but if not see if that is in place
 
I CREATED AN ACOUNT AFTER READING THROUGH A BUNCH OF FORUMS JUST TO POST THIS. I FEEL LIKE IVE CHECKED EVERYTHING!!
From the CDI to spark plug to magneto to the magnet position at 1 o’clock TDC, I’ve checked and messed around with the carburetor and the needle and seat and float aswell as air leaks but nothings working!!!!
My magneto coil has 330 ohms my CDI has 6.9k ohms. I’ve got a good ground and I clipped the white wire to where there’s no chance of shorting. I flipped the magnet and got it to “start” but really it just backfired all the time with short bursts of acceleration but in the few times I got that far it was quickly killed with more air or fuel. It was more likely to start when I drained some gas from the float reserve and closing the fuel pet cock but then it would die when I opened it back up, and if I didn’t it would still die from no more fuel. I JUST CANT WIN. Upon talking to customer service about it they said that having the magnet the way I flipped would cause back fire and damage to the motor but having it the correct yields no results. And they’ve stopped answering me. I’ve inspected all gaps and even tried draining the fuel in the crank case. the only thing I haven’t tried was replacing the magnet. I know I have compression because the spark whole sucks my finger when clutch is engaged. Speaking of which when I’m moving and engage the clutch 1/2 of the time my back tire just completely locks up and skids until it slows down and actually lets the engine turn over WHAT THE HELL IS MY PROBLEM???
We should start a club. I purchased a Phantom V3 last year. Figure third time's a charm. Surly the engineering department got it right this time.........
Well I'm overall disappointed with it. What good is all that power & torque when the damn thing is very difficult to start 85% of the time. That's why it's named Phantom 85 V3 !!! But if I get lucky and it does start , yes it runs great with more than enough power to spare. I served in USAF as a mechanic. I'm aware of most all of the factors causing it not to run.I replaced , CDI with a BRR volt master stage 2 it comes w/ a sperate coil. Plus a new magneto HP type . Just wasted 4 hrs.re-wiring the whole ignition system. Ran ohms check on CDI& magneto.337 and 6.9 Extra careful with wires upon installation .Guess what, No spark. I also drained crankcase of excess fuel. Very frustrated. Motor has less than 3hrs. run time. A waste of time and money.
 
We should start a club. I purchased a Phantom V3 last year. Figure third time's a charm. Surly the engineering department got it right this time.........
Well I'm overall disappointed with it. What good is all that power & torque when the damn thing is very difficult to start 85% of the time. That's why it's named Phantom 85 V3 !!! But if I get lucky and it does start , yes it runs great with more than enough power to spare. I served in USAF as a mechanic. I'm aware of most all of the factors causing it not to run.I replaced , CDI with a BRR volt master stage 2 it comes w/ a sperate coil. Plus a new magneto HP type . Just wasted 4 hrs.re-wiring the whole ignition system. Ran ohms check on CDI& magneto.337 and 6.9 Extra careful with wires upon installation .Guess what, No spark. I also drained crankcase of excess fuel. Very frustrated. Motor has less than 3hrs. run time. A waste of time and money.
The hard starting comes from a few factors.
1 - brand new rings and cylinder. Compression isn't quite all there yet, especially on the Phantom. In an effort to keep them safe/cool they run 2 base gaskets to set a large squish gap and keep the compression low. Add a fresh engine, which doesn't have the best compression at first, and it can be a pain to start. The fact that the iron rings have to bed into a cross-hatched ceramic liner also means the break in period is a lot longer than most plated 2 strokes.
2 - the Phantoms suffer from the same issue as most of these cheap 2 strokes due to the simplistic nature of the magneto and cdi, which is too much spark advance. That makes it even harder to cold start.
3 - combine those 2 and then toss in a lot of flooding from multiple start attempts and you get a whole lot of fun.

Because of reason 2, your installation of that BBR ignition, which is a waste of money, likely advanced that ignition even more. The original CDI the Phantoms come with are actually an upgrade over the standard ones as the internal components are of a higher quality.

My Phantom was definitely a hard starter for the first 100 miles or so. Once the rings really started to seat in it got easier and easier to start. Mind you, I also did a lot of work to my engine that increased the compression ratio. A big one being that I set my squish gap to .9mm, originally 1.77mm (quite a difference eh?). I also had a lot of slop in the keyway on the magnet for my magneto, so I used brass shim stock to take up the gap, and I favored the side that helped retard the ignition slightly. If it made a huge difference, I don't know, but having the magnet secured and unable to slap around side to side is never a bad thing.

Also, keep in mind that ANY sort of leak anywhere on the engine - base gasket, exhaust, intake, etc. will all also affect these things.
 
I replaced , CDI with a BRR volt master stage 2 it comes w/ a sperate coil.
Therein probably lies your problem...The Phantom was designed to work off of the CDI that comes with it which is a Yamaha sealed unit component...The magneto was matched to that setup...This is one of the many reasons why ZTMoto, (Jilin Zeda Technology Co., LTD), Phantom 85, states outright to NOT change anything out from stock design until fully broken in at 310 miles whilst using 2 stroke conventional oil ONLY during breakin...20:1 ratio is REQUIRED, not just a recommendation.

Both of my Phantoms have always started up for me first time, everytime...Especially if you throw out the cheap Chinesium "Z" series spark plug that comes with them and replace it with an NGK-BR8HS gapped to .025...This is the plug I run in both my Phantoms.

served in USAF as a mechanic.
I'm right next door to Holloman Air force Base and White Sands Missile Testing Center here in Alamogordo, NM.

All my buddies work at the base as either active military or former military/now civilian contractors working on everything from F-16s to reaper and predator drones to shooting rockets...lol...Between my mechanical skills and some advice from them, my Phantom 85 V-2 as well as my V-3 work perfectly with thousands of miles on the V-2 and almost a thousand on the V-3.
I also do not run any chain tensioners, all mine are custom direct fit that are cut to exact size and with the front custom motor mount, I am able to adjust where the motor needs to be to make this a perfect fit.

Ps...Before my final retirement, I was an ASE certified master mechanic back in New Hampshire.

You may recognise the "Adel" clamp off an F-16 that I'm using to mount my front brake caliper to the front fork of the bike or the 7075 T-6 military aircraft aluminum that I made my front motor mount from as well as my rear disk brake caliper adapter...lol.
The bead blaster at White Sands did a fantastic job of giving the front mount and rear brake caliper adapter a nice finished look considering they were made by hand with hand tools...lol.

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Fabricated Rear Caliper Adaptor IMG_0347.jpg


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