Planning My Titan...

Discussion in 'Rack Mounted Engines' started by vyzhion, Jun 1, 2008.

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  1. vyzhion

    vyzhion Guest

    I am very excited. Tomorrow my Titan should be delivered by Fedex. I wasn't home when they tried to deliver it on Friday. Anyhow, I got a new bike to mount the Titan to and I have a couple questions for you frame rack folks and other Titan owners. Can I use this tank to increase my range? I am starting a new job that is 30 miles from my house and would prefer not to have to fill up my tank every time I go to or from work. Also, could I use a freewheel hub/axle setup like this to mount the sprocket directly to the hub and save stress on my spokes? OR should I forgo the freewheeling and just custom drill a sprocket with 6 holes and use the disc hub that is there already? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. :)


  2. srdavo

    srdavo Active Member

    thats a great looking bike...ought to be comfy!!

    It shouldn't be too hard to rig up a larger fuel tank.

    I believe this is the elusive grubee hub, that nobody sells. :confused:

    azbill drilled a sprocket to match his disc-brake wheel.
    I don't think you'll have room on the rear for a sprocket & brake disc, side by side anyway. But it looks like your bike has rim-brakes too.

    keep us posted.
  3. vyzhion

    vyzhion Guest

    Yea I put a v brake on the rear because I knew I couldn't use the disc brake with the sprocket in the way. I just haven't taken the disc off the wheel yet. As for the elusive grubee hub I have one already that I ordered last year and have not used yet. I am beginning to lean towards using the disc hub to mount the sprocket anyway, though. I am still looking for a 36 or 40 tooth sprocket that will fit my purpose here. Any ideas where I can get a sprocket like that? I know Andrew from King's makes them but the cost of buying one of those makes that an upgrade item that must come later I'm afraid.
  4. You'll be okay with the fixed sprocket. I can still pedal my bike rather easy with engine off.
    It's gonna look sweet.
    A bigger tank is only going to mean you gotta stretch that leg over or you can do like I do and put my knee on the seat and swing over my leg below my knee... It's cool how I do it. Trust me.
    I get 40 miles on my 1/4 gallon tank and I keep about the same amount in a plastic water canteen from the Army/Navy store. That's what I do anyway.
    And I did this Pannier mod on my bike using a large laundry detergent container:

    Please take lots of pics of your build!
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 1, 2008
  5. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    Personally i would try to use the's heavy duty sealed bearings & those bearings can be tapped-out for easy replacement,and/or if u need to turn the axle around for clearance issues.It also has a large amount of versatility to move the engine drive sprocket inwards/outwards.The drum brake is a bonus although i hear they don't work particularly well.
    At the mo i'm waiting for 13G spokes for my hub so i can't say if everything works perfect...i'll know this week.
    The larger tank should work fine,but if your going to have your new tank below carby level you'll need a pumping carby or a seperate pump to pump fuel to the carby.I'm NOT 100% sure about this but i figure the Titan hasn't got that sorta carb from standard.
  6. vyzhion

    vyzhion Guest

    Yea I'm pretty sure I remember seeing a post where Duane said the Titan was gravity fed and needed to have the tank above the carb. Eventually I want to put a peanut tank from a motorcycle on the bike and use the pumping carb. 3.1 gallons would give me all the distance I need I'm pretty sure. For the moment, I'm hoping to use the 96 oz Staton tank and find a way to mount it above the titan to save myself the trouble of replacing the carb. As for the hub, I will probably eventually have the wheelmaster do it up but I'm between jobs just now and unemployment doesn't afford such luxuries. I am even considering trying out a set of those aluminum mag wheels discussed here. I am just afraid to catch Bryan from revolution on a bad day and never get anything I can use for my money. I guess I could buy the wheels themselves and just drill out a sprocket to use with them. That all is a ways off in the future after I get a real job, though unfortunately. Anyhow, thanks for your imput folks. :)

  7. Scottm

    Scottm Guest

    The Titan fuel tank bolts on the bottom on the right side I believe. With a little hardware and thinking, you will be able to make that tank work on top. It will be interestion to see you get you leg over, but you can always stand on the curb and lean the bike to you and step over. You won't believe the ride of a motorized full suspension bike. You might consider cruiser bars or bmx bars so you don't have to ride bent over

    With that rear kickstand you are in good shape. I'm excited and can't wait to see your rig in the picture gallery.
  8. vyzhion

    vyzhion Guest

    Ok ok it's here! It's here! I am excited and my girlfriend was making fun of me. Anyway I am surprised and delighted at the heavy duty nature of all the components of this kit. I won't have a chance to start putting it together until tomorrow or the next day but I will definitely have it done by this weekend. In the mean time, do I need to replace the nuts and bolts from this kit like I did with my Grubee? They seem to be solid and of higher quality than the Chinese ones from the Grubee kit but I figured I would ask. As far as the height of the bars, I was planning on replacing them with a Gull Wing BMX set that I have in storage but it will have to wait until I can buy a new set of cables, as the ones on the bike won't reach to the top of the higher BMX bars.


    PS - O yea... there is some kind of molex connector on one end of the wires coming out of the magneto for the kill switch. However it doesn't match the end of the kill switch wires from the throttle assembly. Do I just need to cut it off and splice the wires together or can I buy a connector to match?
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 3, 2008
  9. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    I'm probably going to replace both my chains(or atleast one) but that's just me...i'm fanatical about chains.
  10. vyzhion

    vyzhion Guest

    Yea I have some bmx chain I was going to try and use instead of the 415 than came with it. I hate the stretching that those fat chains do. Besides, Dax uses a thin sprocket that is PERFECT for bmx chain. Plus they don't stretch and are much lighter than the 415 chain.
  11. ocscully

    ocscully Member


    In case you haven't seen the photos already you should check out the photos of azbill's Schwinn Jaguar over in the Picture Gallery. He shows the rear sprocket attached to the disc brake rotor and then the whole assembly attached to the rear hub. A very clever/clean solution and keeps the driven sprocket off of the spokes as well as providing the use of the Disc Brake.

    Last edited: Jun 7, 2008
  12. vyzhion

    vyzhion Guest

    i did see that last night and I like the idea. I will probably end up something similar eventually. Unfortunately, I need to get this bike going in a hurry as our truck just broke down and I need to get to work on Monday morning. I am stuck about 20 miles from civilization until I get the bike or truck working. To mount the sprocket to the disc rotor I need nuts and bolts that I just can't get without a trip into the city. But props to Azbill for a good idea!
  13. vyzhion

    vyzhion Guest

    Ok I am finally done building my Titan. I wanted to build a made in the USA themed bike but to my disappointment my GMC branded bicycle was made in China. Boo I say! Anyhow... on with the build. I had a few minor issues but I believe I have solved them. Firstly, the throttle cable that came with the kit (the same as my spare from my Grubee frame-mount setup) is too short for my bike. I couldn't quite get the throttle to a place where it would disengage. So I cut down and used a brake cable and put a drop of JB Weld in the cable end to make sure it stays in place. Now the only trouble I have is that the engine is RIGHT behind the seat. I can't sit my arse fully on the seat as I normally do because the air filter/carb is in the way. I could sure use an extra set of those bar mounts like LP has here. Anyhow, for the time being I plan on using a bent seatpost that I have in storage with my schwinn OCC stingray that I never did anything with. Other than the seat issue, everything is gravy with this bike. I will need to find a way to move the seat back though. ANyone have any thoughts or suggestions?

    Attached Files:

  14. fetor56

    fetor56 Guest

    Very good job,fine work.
    Possibly move the engine backwards as Scott has done.
    Probably it's just me but i'm not keen on 2 sets of bar mounts....i'm not even keen on one so i'll try making my own stainless steel brackets & bolting them to the frame.
    P1010062.JPG p1010063.JPG
  15. vyzhion

    vyzhion Guest

    I was able to move the engine back a bit and move the seat forward as well. I can finally sit my arse all the way on my seat. I just put a couple extra links in the pto to jackshaft chain loop and moved the engine all the way to the back of the engine mounting slots. I also flipped the mounting bracket on my seat upsidedown and it moved it forward about 2 inches. I fot on it just fine now. Everything seems to be good. I just hope it stays together because I have to rely on it to get me to work tomorrow. Wish me luck! ;)
  16. Oh I doubt you'll have any problems. I really do think you should shorten that chain though within the next week so down the road when your chain stretches you have room in your threads for adjustments. Do you have a chain breaker?

    Wait wait wait wait..... bring your mounts up to your bottom holes. That will give you the treads you need for adjustments. Forget shortening that chain. Your mounts are set too low.
    And don't forget to loosen your torque rod before loosening your mounts.

    Should be easy. Loosen torque rod. Loosen chain adjusting nuts,spin the top nuts up move the mount to the bottom hole. Tighten. Do one side at a time.
    Height wont change at all. What will change is that you'll have about an inch of threads below your bottom nuts. You want that.

    Now if you want to lower your mount then shorten the chain.
    Last edited by a moderator: Jun 8, 2008
  17. turkeyssr

    turkeyssr Guest

    Nice build. Where did you find that kickstand??
  18. Scottm

    Scottm Guest

    I agree, Enjoy your ride and please tell us where you got that stand.

    If you decide to drill the plate, let me know and I'll try and share what I did, if I didn't cover it in my thread.
  19. vyzhion

    vyzhion Guest

    The kickstand came with the bike... As far as drilling the plate, I doubt that I will do that. I have no drill press available to me and I am not sure I could drill that monster with a hand drill. I will just have to get another set of brackets.