Planning on a long bike tour
- Thread starter Gilad
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FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
Yes, any generic pit bike/scooter throttle cable. I would rather use a metal twist throttle too, though. The stock one is short and the hard grips are uncomfortable (idk if you can even get the grip off the throttle, I just binned the lot) and idk if it's reliable either. . Plastic crap lol.
I shortened my throttle cable by using a knarp (adjustable cable end) at the handle bar end, so that there would be less slack for the barrel adjusters to deal with.
Can you send me link for cable throttle that will fit the engine I want to buy? (Link below)
https://www.bicycle-engines.com/49cc-4g-t-belt-drive-complete-gas-powered-engine-kit/
https://www.bicycle-engines.com/49cc-4g-t-belt-drive-complete-gas-powered-engine-kit/
Do you think the cable in the link below fits 4-stroke engine? Even though in the description it says the cable fits the 2-stroke
https://www.bicycle-engines.com/goose-neck-throttle-cable/
https://www.bicycle-engines.com/goose-neck-throttle-cable/
FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
Probably. Best to ask the seller? I have a two stroke (and its lovely, btw) but I think it is exactly the same twist throttle and the carb is virtually the same too.
Phantom
Member
Most of my touring experience is with plain pedal bikes, so I'll speak to that and let others advise you on spare parts for your motor.
On every ride I always carry:
patch kit
spare tube
tire irons
pump
gloves and a rag (why get messy?)
hex keys/allen wrenches
chain tool and a few extra links (not a whole chain)
very basic first aid kit of bandaids, antibiotic ointment, gauze, tape and tylenol.
Lastly, I'm so much safer with my blinking tail-light and I carry a headlight in case I get caught out at night.
When touring over a thousand miles I do the following:
I start out with a reliable, tuned-up bike. Both brakes are tight enough to lock the wheels. The wheels are true, the spokes are strong and tight, and the tires have lots of tread. I put on a new chain and cassette. The shifting is crisp and reliable. Everything is dialed in and lubed. If you can't do these things yourself take it to a shop.
I also carry:
lube for my chain
needle-nose pliers
6-in-1 screwdriver
adjustable wrench
miscellaneous hardware and specific bolts to match whatever's holding my racks to the frame, so if a bolt shears off I can easily replace it.
To improvise repairs, I carry bungees, zip-ties and duct tape or electrical tape.
Finally, be capable of basic repairs. At a minimum you should have actually done the following tasks:
Pull your front and back wheels off the bike and reinstall them.
Successfully fix a flat (be able to apply a patch and install a tube).
Break and rejoin a chain (and loosen the stiff link that usually occurs when joining a chain that doesn't use a master link).
Practice until you have the skill and confidence to do it when you need to. Believe me -- sitting on the side of the road with the sun setting and traffic zooming past you, 519 miles from home and miles from your destination, is not the time to figure out how to use your chain tool! Oy vey!
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bakaneko
Well-Known Member
Not to hijack his thread, but I am planning on building an experimental ebike and would like to do a similar trip first across the state than maybe the entire USA. I've heard of tubeless tires being really good for puncture resistance because the puncture sealant you put in basically seals small punctures. GCN (road bike publication) did a thorough test and the results are impressive. As one of the worries I have for long distances is getting a flat and running out of spares or ffffin with the wheel, chain, and etc on a busy hot road or several hundred miles from anyone. Have you had any experience with this?
FurryOnTheInside
In Memoriam
You can already fill an inner tube with Slime sealant if you want to have some protection from small thorn holes. It's just heavier than not having tubes (but that's presuming your team support vehicle will be carrying the spare sealant) .
Having only one tyre to choose from and one rim that costs a butt load of money and (presumably) only comes in one width and only a few spoke hole counts between 16h and 24h and is so new and rare that you will only be able to buy it online is not a sound strategy for crossing the continent. Long distance tourers usually use the most commonly available parts to be safe.
It is so much easier to find a replacement tyre in a local shop if you're running conventional clincher tyres with inner tubes, 26" diameter and between 1.6" and 2.1". You wouldn't have to reseal the new tyre either, whenever you replace it with a new one or when you have to take it off to replace a broken spoke.
Check out Crazy Guy On A Bike forum, see if anyone else is doing Pan-American tours with tubeless tyres, in case I'm behind the times.
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LewieBike
Well-Known Member
Gilad,
Do spend some time reading the previous purchaser's reviews of the bike from Amazon you listed. You can get an idea of what has been the weak points and faults of the item you're considering buying.
I'm noting several instances of folks mentioning that the crank and headset bearings were completely lacking any grease, and that the crank bearings weren't adjusted well. Generally, if you have a large enough a adjustable wrench, one-piece cranks and quill stem type headset bearings are easy to maintain and service, get a tube of waterproof wheel bearing grease and pack both headset and crank bearing retainers with fresh grease, into the balls and the metal teeth-like retainers that hold them. Adjust the bearings so they spin freely and have no looseness after reassembly.
Having a shop look at your bike and touch truing the wheels, and checking the wheel axle bearings for adjustment helps also. But do this before you install the engine, as most bike shops are going to balk at working on a bike with the potential to leak fuel and oil on their floor.
If this is too big a job you might see if a bike shop can do it for you. Those two bearing assemblies are pretty crucial to keeping your bike going down the road, especially if you're out of fuel or the engine drive quits
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Phantom
Member
The short answer is "no". Because my standard tires are so reliable, I haven't had the need. I still carry a patch kit/spare tube, but, thankfully, almost never use them.
I average one flat per 1,000 - 2,000 miles. And half those "flats" are slow, pinhole leaks that are still rideable. I use only high-end kevlar tires (Marathon Plus by Schwalbe, Gatorskin by Continental, or Armadillo by Specialized are all excellent). I add a Mr. Tuffy liner for extra protection. Sometimes I'll use an extra-thick, thorn resistant tube for even more insurance, which is also great at maintaining air pressure month after month after month. The wheel is heavy, yes, but having a motor offsets that.
I've tried Slime, but gave up on it because of this: if a Slime tube fails, you're left with a wet, green, gloppy mess that's impossible to patch because it never dries. A patch kit is useless. The only remedy is to change the tube, so you have to carry spare tubes or you're SOL.
Why not upgrade your current rig now? Throw on some Gatorskins with Mr. Tuffy liners and see how many flats you get, just riding around as you normally do. If you make it 2,000 - 3,000 miles with 3 flats or less you'll have your answer. Those stats would work for me.
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