Plastic tank leaks around the spigot

[FurryOnTheInside]

The whatchamacallit, barbed male connector appears to have been glued in with a petrol soluble glue and I found it dripping onto my rear fender this morning. The whole house stinks never mind my apartment.
I have removed and drained the tank. I reckon I lost around 400ml that's nearly a US pint! Which I am now breathing. High everybody!

Fuel tank seats

• FurryOnTheInside
• Sep 13, 2017

I had to cut away some convex shape from the pannier rack so the tank doesn't wobble. Took a lot...

I have to go and investigate exactly how the connector is held into the tank, I think it was just pushed in, and glued with that cave dwelling bird saliva they make soup from, lol.
Or maybe it wasn't glued or sealed at all and it's just a loose fit. Idk, but it appears to have got much worse overnight so I'm presuming that it had something there that has changed.
Okay so it is not easily removed by pushing it in, pulling it out or twisting. It seems to be held in place pretty solidly but there is nothing sealing between it and the tank.

So my question is what do you think of using JB Weld as a sealant glue on plastic-to-plastic?
It's just that there is little other choice locally. It needs to glue the thing in place, I think, as well as seal it.
Should I use the JB Weld "cold weld" that I have already (for the transfer reshaping), or do i need to order and wait for the JB Weld "Plasticweld"?
I can drown the area in carb cleaner to try to remove the oil that I am sure is left in there, before I go and put the JB Weld on but I'm sure that wouldn't get in between the two parts anyway. I'll clean the outside and rough it up with some sandpaper and a file. But will JB Weld do for this?
Or what is better to use on the plastic surface?

 

[Frankenstein]

Look on amazon or ebay for seal-all, it's made by the company who makes shoe-goo. I don't know the type of plastic you are using and it may be one of those types, a good way around that is the good old fashioned hot glue gun, I use a pressing smear type pattern to melt the plastic of the object and force it to mix with the glue.

Seal-all worked on my what is stock gas tank, I stripped the paint off about 2cm around the studs which I cut off, sandpapered to rough it up and applied glue to all 4 studs, 2 of which were leaking. It prevented leaks for close to a year, the metal I think is expanding at a different rate than the rather stiff but still somewhat flexible glue. It was left to winter and summer changes in temps.

That plastic box looks like those plastics that don't take solvent based glues, which makes sense since it holds gasoline, maybe hot glue, that nipple looks like nylon, an even more resistant material.

They make marine heat shrink tubing with glue inside of it. If I had to work from that I'd see if you can get high temp hot glue and gun to meld into that white bit, if so start on the inside and spiral out to the tank with hot glue, if no go build glue up the shaft a bit and put marine heat shrink to lock it all in.

If seal all will bond (which requires purchasing and testing) use that.


Jb weld will work too, it looks like a plug type deal that can be removed somehow, if it can be pull it apart, rough up with coarse sandpaper and jb weld that area and put together

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

Look on amazon or ebay for seal-all, it's made by the company who makes shoe-goo. I don't know the type of plastic you are using and it may be one of those types, a good way around that is the good old fashioned hot glue gun, I use a pressing smear type pattern to melt the plastic of the object and force it to mix with the glue.

Seal-all worked on my what is stock gas tank, I stripped the paint off about 2cm around the studs which I cut off, sandpapered to rough it up and applied glue to all 4 studs, 2 of which were leaking. It prevented leaks for close to a year, the metal I think is expanding at a different rate than the rather stiff but still somewhat flexible glue. It was left to winter and summer changes in temps.

That plastic box looks like those plastics that don't take solvent based glues, which makes sense since it holds gasoline, maybe hot glue, that nipple looks like nylon, an even more resistant material.

They make marine heat shrink tubing with glue inside of it. If I had to work from that I'd see if you can get high temp hot glue and gun to meld into that white bit, if so start on the inside and spiral out to the tank with hot glue, if no go build glue up the shaft a bit and put marine heat shrink to lock it all in.

If seal all will bond (which requires purchasing and testing) use that.


Jb weld will work too, it looks like a plug type deal that can be removed somehow, if it can be pull it apart, rough up with coarse sandpaper and jb weld that area and put together

Thanks for your response.
Yes the nipple must come out somehow but I don't want to ruin or crush it trying to get enough grip to pull it out
I think Seal-All is a brand not available here. But I'm looking at two part (not air setting, solvent based) "plastic welder" that says "automotive/, industrial" and "resists most liquids"
I thought maybe the JB Weld I have isn't flexible enough and might crack away from the tank which is a little bit flexible.
I don't know what the plastic is that the tank and nipple is made of. The tank looks like the same stuff as my rear fender is made from.
Whatever I get, I'll try a bit on an out-of-the-way area of the tank before trying it on the area that is leaking.

 

[Frankenstein]

Thanks for your response.
Yes the nipple must come out somehow but I don't want to ruin or crush it trying to get enough grip to pull it out
I think Seal-All is a brand not available here. But I'm looking at two part (not air setting, solvent based) "plastic welder" that says "automotive/, industrial" and "resists most liquids"
I thought maybe the JB Weld I have isn't flexible enough and might crack away from the tank which is a little bit flexible.
I don't know what the plastic is that the tank and nipple is made of. The tank looks like the same stuff as my rear fender is made from.
Whatever I get, I'll try a bit on an out-of-the-way area of the tank before trying it on the area that is leaking.

If it's not nylon I wouldn't bother with anything but hot glue, that mating surface is a perfect ring I would use a hot gun to make it a single piece, you could use tiny strips of that plastic off a junk fender and melt it in with your soldering iron, another technique I've used on stupid awkward parts, the last time I did it was to fix a friend's rc car that took a good spill and broke the mounting tab off the plastic gas tank which made a hole in the tank when it cracked off. I soldering ironed it together with plastic from a plastic bin lid and a flat tip iron tip that looks like a flathead screwdriver and carefully "welded" it together again.

Your hose connection shouldn't be under enough stress to pull it apart unless you are really yanking the furl line to remove it.

 

[FurryOnTheInside]

If it's not nylon I wouldn't bother with anything but hot glue, that mating surface is a perfect ring I would use a hot gun to make it a single piece, you could use tiny strips of that plastic off a junk fender and melt it in with your soldering iron, another technique I've used on stupid awkward parts, the last time I did it was to fix a friend's rc car that took a good spill and broke the mounting tab off the plastic gas tank which made a hole in the tank when it cracked off. I soldering ironed it together with plastic from a plastic bin lid and a flat tip iron tip that looks like a flathead screwdriver and carefully "welded" it together again.

Your hose connection shouldn't be under enough stress to pull it apart unless you are really yanking the furl line to remove it.

Although I believe the tank is probably "bin lid type" plastic, I don't know about the nipple and I am going to assume that it's nylon.
I think I could probably soften the tank with heat and squish it closer to the nipple but I would like to have something liquid to fill in between the two parts. Even though it means waiting longer and spending more money, I think I'm going to try the two part "plastic welder".