Poo poo exhaust systems

Mark 1971

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Does anybody here have the flex poo poo exhaust on a 2 stroke ? I'm looking for a quiet exaust with more torque. Top end don't really matter to me.
 
They are garbage, they don't aid anything but over heating the engine.
Hence the reason why, after reviewing what ive heard from others in the distant past, i told Mark 1971 in other posts not to take bikeberry's youtube video too seriously "touting these things", since their in the business to sell these things...Im not calling them, "Poo Poo" :poop::poop: for nothing...lol.
Does anybody here have the flex poo poo exhaust on a 2 stroke ? I'm looking for a quiet exaust with more torque. Top end don't really matter to me.
Hi Mark, Im glad you took my advice to start a separate thread on this topic...Street Ryderz is one of our more experienced forum members that specialises in how to get more out of your china girls...But as i warned before on another thread of yours...How much time, effort, and money are you willing to spend for modest gains on a stock setup with limited budget ???...DAMIEN
 
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Poo poo is poo poo. If you are going to get a pipe, get a good one, not just for the top end but you will get much better low end too. Depending on which one you get, you should experience an increase in performance along the whole throttle range. Generally, get one with a longer header to get more low end. If it's too loud, you can put a silencer on it.
 
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Poo poo is poo poo. If you are going to get a pipe, get a good one, not just for the top end but you will get much better low end too. Depending on which one you get, you should experience an increase in performance along the whole throttle range. Generally, get one with a longer header to get more low end. If it's too loud, you can put a silencer on it.
Thank you for the advice. I'll return the poo poo and save up for the f2 thingy with a silencer.
 
I disagree with the nay-sayers of the flexible exhaust. From a performance perspective they're not ideal but by all means they're not garbage.

I have a schwinn stingray chopper and running a heavily ported engine setup. Now I should really be drawing up a port map and have an expansion chamber fabricated in order to extract every available ounce of power out of the setup, but just currently don't have the time so just to get by for now and have it running I slapped on a flexible 'poo' exhaust also because I had it sitting around and I was immediately amazed by the difference between that and the stock exhaust I was running before that. Compared to the stock exhaust, there is distinctively an increase in mid range torque with a nice sound unlike the ugly noise from the stock exhaust with the end cap deleted.

My current configuration involved as I'd already mentioned all ports opened up and matched at the manifolds as well as the transfers at the case, I'm running 2x thick base gaskets that I'd made up totalling at 1.8 mm to raise the port positioning to increase torque, I then shaved the CNC head to bring the compression back up as running a thicker base gasket would increased cylinder volume hence dropping compression, im also using a self-made thinner copper gasket at 0.4 mm to fine tune the compression it's right now at that sweet level. All the stud threads has been drilled out and helicoil installed as an insurance policy, I originally went to a 'Racing carb' that everybody are raving about but ended up going back to the original NT type as I find the NT is simply a better unit as long as silicone is used at the base to seal it at the manifold to eliminate air leak. With the above setup, the poo pipe performs better than expected and no overheating what so ever...
 
My current configuration involved as I'd already mentioned all ports opened up and matched at the manifolds as well as the transfers at the case, I'm running 2x thick base gaskets that I'd made up totalling at 1.8 mm to raise the port positioning to increase torque, I then shaved the CNC head to bring the compression back up as running a thicker base gasket would increased cylinder volume hence dropping compression, im also using a self-made thinner copper gasket at 0.4 mm to fine tune the compression it's right now at that sweet level. All the stud threads has been drilled out and helicoil installed as an insurance policy, I originally went to a 'Racing carb' that everybody are raving about but ended up going back to the original NT type as I find the NT is simply a better unit as long as silicone is used at the base to seal it at the manifold to eliminate air leak. With the above setup, the poo pipe performs better than expected and no overheating what so ever...
i know that you disagree with other assessments of the :poop::poop: exhaust but keep in mind that you have made some major modifications to your motor by shaving the head to increase compression, self-made thinner copper gasket, doubling the base gaskets etc. which would greatly increase the capability of the PooPoo exhaust system...What we are talking about here is running one of these on a totally stock engine.

Many folks here do not have the mechanical know how or basic shop talent to do what you have done to accomodate that type of exhaust better.

These are the things you need to be aware of when either agreeing or disagreeing with this...Just saying...DAMIEN
 
I disagree with the nay-sayers of the flexible exhaust. From a performance perspective they're not ideal but by all means they're not garbage.

I have a schwinn stingray chopper and running a heavily ported engine setup. Now I should really be drawing up a port map and have an expansion chamber fabricated in order to extract every available ounce of power out of the setup, but just currently don't have the time so just to get by for now and have it running I slapped on a flexible 'poo' exhaust also because I had it sitting around and I was immediately amazed by the difference between that and the stock exhaust I was running before that. Compared to the stock exhaust, there is distinctively an increase in mid range torque with a nice sound unlike the ugly noise from the stock exhaust with the end cap deleted.

My current configuration involved as I'd already mentioned all ports opened up and matched at the manifolds as well as the transfers at the case, I'm running 2x thick base gaskets that I'd made up totalling at 1.8 mm to raise the port positioning to increase torque, I then shaved the CNC head to bring the compression back up as running a thicker base gasket would increased cylinder volume hence dropping compression, im also using a self-made thinner copper gasket at 0.4 mm to fine tune the compression it's right now at that sweet level. All the stud threads has been drilled out and helicoil installed as an insurance policy, I originally went to a 'Racing carb' that everybody are raving about but ended up going back to the original NT type as I find the NT is simply a better unit as long as silicone is used at the base to seal it at the manifold to eliminate air leak. With the above setup, the poo pipe performs better than expected and no overheating what so ever...
The poo poo flexible pipe has an I.D through the flange and header of 17mm so how does an exhaust port that is 22-23 mm and has been supposedly opened up match the 17mm? Port matching is when you make all the ports (at the window) the same size, and the intake flange and track are also the same along with the exhaust flange and first section of the header so that the flow is equal from carb body to the first divergent section of the pipe. Raising the cylinder raise's the timing a bit but if you didn't deck the cylinder top back down and ideally bring the piston crown flush to the deck, shaving the head does little to restore the lost compression. The poo poo pipe even for stock engines is not suited being way to small to flow enough to keep up with stock port volume, for a true performance engine it would be even worse as there is no way it can handle the flow from enlarged ports and it can't be tuned not to mention the little tiny chamber better suited to rc engines. it's only pro is that it's easily mounted/fitted but trust do 10 min of constant above half throttle riding and then check engine temp, if you think it's good so be it but most folks want their stuff to last and that doesn't happen with temps above 300f in my experience over the last 20 years and my 12 yo engines still run strong!
 
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