Port timing

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It was a very rough guess. I will check again but was told to aim around the 120 duration for inlet

it gets very confusing trying to understand what people are saying
Yes it can be hard to get a handle on but can be rewarding in the end when it's doing what you want.120 degrees of intake duration is great and not hard to achive.I have to ask though I noticed on the calculator that your input for piston crown to top of barrel is -.2 witch means that the crown protrudes .2 of a mm above the deck what head are you going to use?I ask because I've tried to run the type r head and the type f with the crown flush to the deck and had to modify the heads for it to work and not bounce.
 
Yes it can be hard to get a handle on but can be rewarding in the end when it's doing what you want.120 degrees of intake duration is great and not hard to achive.I have to ask though I noticed on the calculator that your input for piston crown to top of barrel is -.2 witch means that the crown protrudes .2 of a mm above the deck what head are you going to use?I ask because I've tried to run the type r head and the type f with the crown flush to the deck and had to modify the heads for it to work and not bounce.

Yes your right it does protrude a bit
I’m going to make copper gaskets but may have to modify
I have different thickness copper sheet
 
For me it's hard to say seeings how I have not seen one of the superhawk engines. Their is a possibility of it working with the short stroke and b piston setup and a 2.78" jug. 2mm, .079" is still .010" more than I would normally go using a 8cc head , and if it works the compression is going to be through the roof with a 6cc head. Like well over 200lbs. I just did one for a friend and at a jug length of 2.705 with a 6cc head it read 210 lbs. comp.. Anyhow something just don't sound right, but I'm hoping that you got everything right to the nat's ass and it runs like a beast.
 
Can you use a feeler gauge to get a close estimate of how far above it goes? If so take that number add .035 to it for a head gasket thickness. Then you should be able to adjust squish clearance from there.
 
Can you use a feeler gauge to get a close estimate of how far above it goes? If so take that number add .035 to it for a head gasket thickness. Then you should be able to adjust squish clearance from there.
Thanks Gary, I’m hoping the copper will give me what I need

I thought I was on to it
C9D1DBFB-6E4F-4BC9-894D-EFEE7733CA0D.jpeg image.jpg
 
Thanks Gary, I’m hoping the copper will give me what I need

I thought I was on to it
View attachment 79955 View attachment 79956
I have taken a little to much off the jug a couple of times myself and had to modify the head. If it were me once the gasket was made I would do a squish test with solder just to make sure it's enough to stay clear after it's heated up. It looks like you chose the Kings round head. It should help to keep from really high compression.
 
I have taken a little to much off the jug a couple of times myself and had to modify the head. If it were me once the gasket was made I would do a squish test with solder just to make sure it's enough to stay clear after it's heated up. It looks like you chose the Kings round head. It should help to keep from really high compression.

I've got it at .6 mm at the moment but that that's not properly torqued so i still have a little to go

it should be .8?
 
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