Possible Electric Bicycle ? [ trolling motor ]

The shaft is pretty small, less than 1" on the trolling motor. I actually made a little progress, ordered a freewheel sprocket and mocked up motor/battery/controller. I'll post a few pics here shortly (they will be cell phone pics in bad lighting taken at odd angles). We worked out a plan to just make a sleeve that will go over the trolling motor shaft and inside of the freewheel sprocket. Then weld a bicycle drive sprocket to the axle of the trike
This is just a mock-up, literally held together with zip ties. I'll have to adjust the angle the motor is mounted at so the chain will be lower than the rear frame. The controller is just hanging there but the bracket I am fabricating for it will have it a little bit lower than where it is now. Probably 2 weeks before it is all together and running.
 

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So do you have an actual size on the shaft or not because I have ideas but no money to play with here...
I actually work at a shop and we have a CNC machine here in the turbo shop. So I dropped the trolling motor and sprocket with the guys and they are going to make me a sleeve/hub.
 
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Last 3 steps will be mounting the motor. Welding the drive sprocket to the axle. And fitting the chain. After that nothing left but a test run.
 
I actually work at DuramaxTuner and we have a CNC machine here in the turbo shop. So I dropped the trolling motor and sprocket with the guys and they are going to make me a sleeve/hub.

No need for a sleeve with this sprocket adaptor:

http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=1864

Since the adaptor has no center hole, you'll need to drill the center to your specs.

Ya might as well buy cheap freewheels & sprockets from staton too.

Or quality freewheels from here:

http://sickbikeparts.com/freewheel-adapter/

You're shooting for a 3.6:1 gear ratio.

Use a 13-tooth sprocket and 48-t rear wheel sprocket.....
or a 14t and a 50t rear sprocket.....
or a 15t sprocket and a 54t rear wheel sprocket.

This website's for gear ratios calculations:
http://jimsitton.net/ratiocalc/

Those combinations will get you 30mph @ 1400rpm.

dmaxtuner_paul, you should start your own thread on your project build.
 
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No need for a sleeve with this sprocket adaptor:

http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=1864

Ya might as well buy cheap freewheels & sprockets from staton too.

Or quality freewheels from here:

http://sickbikeparts.com/freewheel-adapter/

Use a 13-tooth sprocket and 48-t rear wheel sprocket.....
or a 14t and a 50t rear sprocket.....
or a 15t sprocket and a 54t rear wheel sprocket.

Those combinations will get you 30mph @ 1400rpm.

dmaxtuner_paul, you should start your own thread on your project build.
That's a cool as s**t find right there, imagine how many issues that could fix for a lot of jackshafters....

Kind of makes me think an over the rear wheel type of motor could be really quite easily jackshafted to drive a vertical chain on the right side. Could even link it to a gear cluster and omit first gear from the derailleur reach and turn your second gear into first on the bars. Then you could use that bumble bee bull crap with the power of the motor but none of the friction crap that sucks in the rain and after the rain and walking up hills is still a thing thing.


Anyway off topic there for a second, putting a motor on top with that freewheel could make for a worthy assist, and can be set to a max speed limit due to the single gear to gear. Best part is leaving the engine in permanent ready to go linkage doesn't add excessive resistance to regular pedaling, and of course because it freewheels you can't be going too fast when you engage the engine because the freewheel prevents engagement until the engine rpm is sufficient to overcome the rpm of the rear wheel.

If lacking room then simply link to the outer most gear on the cassette, and remove the highest gear from use on the handlebar shifter and limit the derailleur as necessary with the limit screw...

I suppose if one was whacky enough, which I believe I am, you could link to the rear wheel with a full cassette and freewheel somewhere with 2 or 3 sets of chains and somehow linked to the rear wheel and gave you gears...
Note080217_1.jpg
 
No need for a sleeve with this sprocket adaptor:

http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=1864

Since the adaptor has no center hole, you'll need to drill the center to your specs.

Ya might as well buy cheap freewheels & sprockets from staton too.

Or quality freewheels from here:

http://sickbikeparts.com/freewheel-adapter/

I had already dropped the parts off when I saw this, but that slug would have been perfect! Nice to know it is out there. I'm sure like everyone else here, I'm half way through this build and already thinking about the next one or next revision.

You're shooting for a 3.6:1 gear ratio.

Use a 13-tooth sprocket and 48-t rear wheel sprocket.....
or a 14t and a 50t rear sprocket.....
or a 15t sprocket and a 54t rear wheel sprocket.

This website's for gear ratios calculations:
http://jimsitton.net/ratiocalc/

Those combinations will get you 30mph @ 1400rpm.

dmaxtuner_paul, you should start your own thread on your project build.

This is a total spare part job. So I will only buy something if there is no way to salvage something I already have. I got the trike super cheap on craigslist, the trolling motor and battery setup are left overs from an old boat I could never get titled and the drive sprocket is off of a kids bike that got salvaged for another project. The only piece I have bought so far is the freewheel. Obviously I would have bought the slug if I could have before, but no worries, (I hope to get a pretty good deal on the custom cut one).

Also, because i don't think the trolling motor has enough torque to get this thing off the line and a real fitment issue, I went with a 36 tooth sprocket on the axle. Which is being welded on the axle Monday or Tuesday next week. The sprocket on the motor is a 16 tooth and the bike has 20" tires.

Now, I used this calculator http://www.gokartsupply.com/ratios.htm but again, I am really a rookie at all this. but the math claims a peak speed potential of 37 MPH. Which the trike can NOT handle. No suspension, the only brakes on it are a drum brake in front. If this thing doesn't burn up on the test run I will look at a disc brake setup for a rear tire. For now, the goal is 20 MPH with my ass on it, and hopefully make the battery last for 20 miles. The battery I have wont take a charge now so I may go to a smaller battery setup but for now I figure I need to get it together.

^
 
That's a cool as sh*t find right there, imagine how many issues that could fix for a lot of jackshafters.... I suppose if one was whacky enough, which I believe I am, you could link to the rear wheel with a full cassette and freewheel somewhere with 2 or 3 sets of chains and somehow linked to the rear wheel and gave you gears...
^Best technical drawing EVER! I kinda get what you are saying. Kinda manual, chain and gear transmission setup. For now, this thing needs to be assembled as simply as possible to find out if it is even worth it. I have a few other ideas for electric motor conversions around the house but they all will require more $$$. If I can get it rolling on the pedals and flick on the motor to cruise I figure I can work on a better setup and upgrade from there. I already reached out to Worksman and if nothing else I could make a fresh axle or modify the frame. Again, just not sure if it's worth it.
 
I had already dropped the parts off when I saw this, but that slug would have been perfect! Nice to know it is out there. I'm sure like everyone else here, I'm half way through this build and already thinking about the next one or next revision.



This is a total spare part job. So I will only buy something if there is no way to salvage something I already have. I got the trike super cheap on craigslist, the trolling motor and battery setup are left overs from an old boat I could never get titled and the drive sprocket is off of a kids bike that got salvaged for another project. The only piece I have bought so far is the freewheel. Obviously I would have bought the slug if I could have before, but no worries, (I hope to get a pretty good deal on the custom cut one).

Also, because i don't think the trolling motor has enough torque to get this thing off the line and a real fitment issue, I went with a 36 tooth sprocket on the axle. Which is being welded on the axle Monday or Tuesday next week. The sprocket on the motor is a 16 tooth and the bike has 20" tires.

Now, I used this calculator http://www.gokartsupply.com/ratios.htm but again, I am really a rookie at all this. but the math claims a peak speed potential of 37 MPH. Which the trike can NOT handle. No suspension, the only brakes on it are a drum brake in front. If this thing doesn't burn up on the test run I will look at a disc brake setup for a rear tire. For now, the goal is 20 MPH with my ass on it, and hopefully make the battery last for 20 miles. The battery I have wont take a charge now so I may go to a smaller battery setup but for now I figure I need to get it together.

^

Ok.
Now I know your game plan.

Good luck.
 
This is a total spare part job.
I will only buy something if there is no way to salvage something I already have.
Those builds can be frustrating but fun, just not near as fun as having customers pay you in advance to use the good parts ;-}

2_trike2R.jpg


36V 970W 7-speed shifting trike.
The box under the basket has the 36V LI battery, controller, the battery charger, and a 12V power source.

2_KCtrikeFrontBack700.jpg


The first time rode it I popped a wheelie and spun widely in a circle before being thrown off!

I used a 6-speed Pegion trike for this build, it allowed me to move the battery box farther forward of the rear axle.

2_Trike3FL.jpg


2_Trike3Lback.jpg


Same 36V setup as the other trike, just more lights ;-}

Have fun with you 'spare parts' build Paul and best of luck, I really hope you can make it go!
 
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