Powder Coating advice

sjackson

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May 20, 2008
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Chicago
So I found a guy near me (but not close, for sure) who will powder coat my parts. He does the sandblasting and coating all in shop. My question, for those of you who have had it done, is can I paint over the powder coating without any problems? I'm looking to get solid, flat colors on the frame, chainguard, tank, rack and fenders (when I get them all), and then do some detail work (either by hand or screen print) and then clear coat over that. Can this be done? I don't think I'd opt for powder coating if I have to settle for one solid color.

Also, I'm taking the opportunity to get all of my bikes done, not just my MB frame. I've got a 1966 schwinn tandem that I'm getting done up in bright cherry red, and a fuji mountain bike that I'm getting done in flat black. Should be fun!
 
ohh man your in Chicago where u come from heheh welcome...... what does this dude charge and where is he at ? powder coat i would llike to do some parts soon
its good to see windy city guys get up on this board
 
Master- I'm actually from Morton Grove, just north of the city. Saying "chicago" is easier :) This guy is in Joliet, and if you go to his page you'll see he's got bikes and a restored whizzer on there! I don't know how he is on price though. I haven't really called around yet. There's another guy out in Tonica, which is near the Utica/Lasalle/Ottawa area. It's kinda far, but it would give me an excuse to go to Starved Rock I suppose.

Hough- That's reassuring to hear... I've looked briefly online and some people seem to have problems with paint peeling off of powder coating. I guess it depends on both the type of powder and type of paint.
 
Like anything else, it's prep. Practically speaking, for things like pinstripes, it is tough to rough up the surface because of how small the area is. For larger areas, I would just mask and rough it up- Scotch pad, 400 or 600. Powder coat cannot be buffed out like most paints so you just can't rough up the whole area, paint and buff the whole thing, so it is more difficult. Maybe some sort of "liquid sandpaper" on smaller areas that cannot practically be sanded.
 
u might see me around there i use to live out that way my ex still does Starved Rock is a great place great trails oh sorry i just kinda blew over yer post here this might help u iam a painter by trade

http://www.paintcenter.org/rj/jul06d.cfm

i agree with this advise and i know its not what u want to do but u can take what you need from it ..for your needs
i would not go with any latex because the clear coat would fail
i went to that link that wizz is sexy ......
 
My advice from years of refinishing is to talk to the painter about the powder he is using and his successes with second coats. Some powders won't hold an acrylic or enamel topcoat. If he doesn't know, ask for some sample pieces and experiment for yourself. It would be a shame to have the work done and find out later that you have to strip the powder to get the multi-colored finishes you want--or that the paint comes off because it doesn't bite.
 
You could always get about any graphic you need made out of viynl decal material and apply it directly over the powder?? Just a thought.
 
There is always the option of using a quality automotive basecoat/clearcoat, and then airbrush designs, with a stencil, or freehand, and then clearcoat it all. Im thinking you want the powdercoat instead since its durable, I thought i would also mention you can powdercoat, all the bike pieces besides the frame yourself, the eastwood makes a nice electric powdercoat gun thats around $140, you dont need a air compressor, just a place to paint the parts, and a old kitchen oven to bake the parts.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/...UCT&iMainCat=459&iSubCat=460&iProductID=17540
 
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