Pre-build checklist: Things all new owners should do with these 2 stroke kits...

Discussion in 'Photos & Bicycle Builds' started by rumme, Jun 14, 2008.

  1. amiga65

    amiga65 New Member

    Thanks for that link Dave.
    Still saving and researching for My first bike bookmarked that link as I know its gonna come in handy.

  2. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    I got rid of the crappy electrical connectors and soldered the wires. Covered all wire conections with heat shrink. Changed the spark plug boot/connection. Ran my wires from coil to CDI through frame tube. Sealed anywhere a wire went through to anything. Next, will take off the coil cover and drill a small weep hole at the lowest point of case, as condensation could build up with sealed unit.
  3. Al.Fisherman

    Al.Fisherman Active Member

    Things I do BEFORE mounting and running engine.......REMOVE FENDERS AND TRASH

    1. Remove, discard and replace cylinder head studs with either studs or bolts Grade 8.8. (If using bolts they need to be the correct length, i.e. cut down). Either remove 1 head gasket or both if thin aftermarket is used (I use Copper Coat on head gasket). Install washer, lock washer and locking nuts and lock tite if studs are used (no lock tite for bolts). Torque to 17# (204 inch #'s)
    2. I make sure the head and jug has GOOD mounting surfaces. Take a sheet or 320 grit sandpaper. Lay it on a piece of glass, and mill the surface. I have used sandpaper for an orbital sander (one side sticky) and stuck it to my garage window.
    3. Remove, discard and replace the (4) 6mm studs holding the carburetor and exhaust with Grade 8.8. Lock tite and locking nuts. Torque to 10# (120 inch #'s)
    4. Remove and replace cheap spark plug wire and plug clip with a good quality wire and clip... The wire is treaded onto a screw on the CDI. To remove turn counter clockwise. Check plug gap.
    5. Adjust the clutch cable guide (mounted on the crankcase below the carburetor), so as not to bind the cable and wear excessively.
    6. Add 3cc oil to crankcase.
    7. Remove clutch pivot arm and shaft (clutch pivot cover has to be removed (4) screws. Remove arm from shaft and reinstall on shaft 2 notches counter clockwise.
    8. Put a file finish on the gears.
    9. Grease clutch pivot shaft and install in cover. Install cover.
    10. Remove, discard and replace engine mounting studs and nuts with Grade 8.8, Lock tite and locking nuts.
    11. Replace the (2) bottom bolts to the chain tensioner with grade 8.8. The roller has a grade 8.8 from factory.
    12. I remove the coil, remove all three wires, and solder (2) wires back on (black and blue) using #14 and about 3 foot so I can attach to the CDI where I want and without the cheap terminal clips. My connections are close to the CDI. Slide on heat shrink and solder, slide heat shrink over the connection and shrink to the connection. Seal where wires exit case.
    13. Before installing the fuel tank, flush it out. Trash is in the tank from attaching the stud mounts.
    14. I don't use the fuel filter that comes with the kit (I use it on my lawnmower) I get a slim line from Advance Auto.
    15. I glue a length of rubber (from a truck tarp rubber strap) under the fuel tank. Tank is now mounted securely without undue tightening.
    16. Use a muffler support to relieve the strain on the (2) 6mm exhaust studs.
    17. Mentioned earlier that I started doing is install an "O" ring in the carburetor throat.
    18. I'll have to add the Zip ties to the spokes.... As mentioned.
    19. I'll have to add a change in plug, although the stock plug did just fine on engine #1, and gap.
    20. Like said, recheck all fasteners, and do this periodically.
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 15, 2015
  4. crackers

    crackers Member

    I just bought a mini greese gun and before I fill the hole under the clutch cable alinement end holder I need to know that this won't make the clutch slip? I haven't seen anyone else on here mention doing this? How high do you fill the hole, till it comes out of the hole or do you leave room for the end holder bolt? (a pic of this clutch cable end cable holder would help me know I'm on the same page}
  5. AussieSteve

    AussieSteve Active Member

    Hello crackers, I read when I first arrived on this site that this was a good idea, so I packed that area nice and full of grease, by hand. Next ride, grease oozed through the RHS countershaft bearing and covered the clutch with grease. Had to dismantle the clutch, wash everything with brake cleaner, re-grease the ball-race in the clutch, (not too much grease here either - just enough to wet the balls) and reassemble.
    Logically, some grease through the clutch cable adjuster hole might be of benefit, but be wary.
    I had to follow with 2 more clutch cleanups before all the grease stopped oozing out.

    ... Steve
  6. crackers

    crackers Member

    Thanks Steve thats exactly why I ask. It just seamed like an awful large cavity to fill with grease and it being so close to the clutch pads. I'm just trying to do some preventive maintance here not create work for myself.
    Last edited: Dec 20, 2009
  7. skrufryder

    skrufryder Member

  8. V 35

    V 35 Member

    I tried moving arm, clutch worked noticeably smoother, but wouldn't fully release,
    lever bottomed out first. Went back to stock position, harder to work, but fully releases,
    moving the arm And a longer throw lever would be the hot setup.

    Even when fully released, the clutch has a huge amount of parasitic drag, the concept
    of pedaling anywhere, sounds far fetched.
  9. gia

    gia New Member

    Thanks to everyone who contributed ideas for things to do/know before installing that motor. I'm sure that it all will help immensely at making my first build as successful as possible!
  10. HackD

    HackD New Member

    Having done this mod tonight - a few things to add.

    When retightening the castle-nut holding the clutch operating arm in position when on the splines, be sure to hold it/restrain it from going hard up against it's limit of travel. If you torque the nut down against it's limit of travel, you might crack the internal casting. I did, and i didn't torque it down all that particularly tight. Fortunately, i have a parts motor to scavenge the spare assembly from, and started over.

    While you are at it and have everything disconnected and semi-apart - Lithium-greasing the internal wire of the clutch cable is a must! The method that i used was to take the inner wire core entirely out of the sheath, and fed it entirely into my lithium grease tube, in effect bathing the inner wire core. I then fed it back into the outer cable casing, bolted everything back together, and now i'm two-fingering the clutch, instead of two-handing it. No longer is it stiffer than my old Yammy XT500 with high-comp clutch springs in it.

    Tomorrow i rubber mount the motor to reduce it's paint-shaker tendencies. :)
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2011
    richard jewett likes this.


    go to youtube and look up kingsmotorbikes channel, they have like two videos( that suck). they show you the bracket and how to install it but it doesn't come in the. lol. kingsmotorbikes is a joke.(sorry personal opions added)


    that is for the clutch cable fish it through and then to the clutch arm. the big spring goes before that piece and acts as a heat shield, and then the skinny spring goes after it to push the arm back.then through the arm. NOTE: the actual piece connected to the motor screws off and reveals a hole that is used to grease your clutch.

    Attached Files:



    that is for the clutch cable fish it through and then to the clutch arm. the big spring goes before that piece and acts as a heat shield, and then the skinny spring goes after it to push the arm back.then through the arm. NOTE: the actual piece connected to the motor screws off and reveals a hole that is used to grease your clutch.

    Attached Files:

  14. rgd48

    rgd48 New Member


    o.k. gentlemen! i have built my 1st mb from ground up using a cannondale h300 frame. this bike is beautiful. lot of time and money invested in this ride. now to the meat of my situation. i've installed a new grubee skyhawk gt5a 2 stroke. i've read most all the threads concerning my problem and i now reconize what it is. all the symptoms are there. this confounded cns carb. what i need is 1 person that has been successful in what needs to be done as i am confused because so many have said this or that about the thing. i need help guys. i am so frustrated now i think i blew out my head gasket and i haven't even taken my 1st good ride yet other than around the block. thanks for your so much needed help in advance. -hotrod1-
  15. 2strokepoke

    2strokepoke Member

    what do you suggest greasing the clutch with? just multi-purpose grease or something else?
  16. oldnube

    oldnube Member

    Thanks To All

    I want to thank all you tech advisors i know i can build one now
  17. oldnube

    oldnube Member

    Muffler Support

    Could some one post some pics of their muffler supports. I can not view U TUBE on my phone. THANK YOU in advance!
    Last edited: Oct 14, 2011
  18. oldnube

    oldnube Member

    Oil Where

    3cc's of oil is this just poured on top of the piston?
    richard jewett likes this.
  19. tooljunkie

    tooljunkie Member

    throw away the chain and find something better.mine broke a side link and decided to pile up in the case.broke the housing ahead of the small sprocket .now dirt can get into stator/magneto housing.its not going to last long.going to build a sheet metal block-off to try and seal it up.
  20. skrufryder

    skrufryder Member

    This reminds me of why I have a spare motor ready to go at all times. If you order another motor, order a crank case. Rebuild the busted up one with the new crank case. You could sand smooth then polish the inside of the case and replace the oil seals. You could also match the ports while you have it apart. That could be your sunday race motor!:devilish: