Predator 212 rear drive

[FNTPuck]

Almost done!!!! Now i am thinking I should have used a predator 13hp. It would have fit, i have all this extra space, LOL. I took the governor off this thing, should get around 9hp?

Just removing the gov with stock intake and muffler box will only get ya to around 7.5. Recipe for 9hp from a 212 is governor removed, intake and carb, and straight pipe header. Should also do valvesprings and flywheel as well though.

Predator 420 is a LOT larger than a 212. Like MUCH larger and much heavier. Take a look at the displays at Harbor Freight, the mounting plate you have isn't even wide enough to bolt on a 420. Even if you got it to fit, that wheel would be broken the first test ride, and the frame would be cracked. Its literally double not only the HP of a 212 but also 2.3x the TQ...and TQ is what breaks stuff.

Even a 301 is a ton bigger than a 212 and "too much" for a bike. It took a LOT to "safely" run a 305cc on a bicycle. Virtually nothing from the bike is left besides the center triangle of the frame - and even that I reinforced the seat post with heavier bar rosette welded inside, replaced the head tube and boxed it, and added gussets.

 

[bike4life]

Almost done!!!
Adding copper pipe to brake levers allows more braking force to be transmitted as I get leverage, so I stop faster. The disc brake was removed for the gear, so I have a rear caliper brake

 

[Wrench]

Apply for a patent for those copper brake lever extensions.

 

[FNTPuck]

Pro tip - you can get moped levers cheap and they have a TON more leverage than a bicycle lever with a farther pull. Some are made for larger moped brake cables so would need knarps, but those are literally like $1 if needed lol. I run some from Treatland that were cheap...you can get them complete for like $20 for a pair and they come in both 5" (plenty for most uses) and motorcycle sized 7" for if you have big drum brake or something that needs a loonnggg pull.

 

[bike4life]

Ok so i tested it out yesterday and it worked.... The chain popped off at first and i think that was because the engine was tilted off center a little so i fixed that and the chain no longer pops off anymore. It is also slightly wobbly when decelerating i guess because of the top heavy engine. Will fix that by adding a little training wheel thing on the side maybe....

Problem/ lol: The disc brake wheel hub is getting unscrewed by the engine.... The engine turns the gear mounted on the hub counterclockwise to propel forwards which loosens it. It was on from the factory and it isn't one of these cheap hubs, its long and strong. So i added some permanent lock tight and will see if that fixes it?? Maybe weld it then? Edit: just watched a video and threadlock is very weak, breaks at like 10ftlbs i think i am gonna weld it. hopefully its steel...
Also the belt is getting worn out a little, i see rubber shredded fragments on the plate. My gearing is 10t /35 rear tooth - 27.5" tire with tq converter.
Is that too high??
Wasnt able to get a speed because it was dark out when i tested it, so couldnt see spedo. Will test later.

 

[Wrench]

Not sure what your disc brake wheel hub and gear looks like
Instead of welding the disc brake wheel hub on. See if there is any way to drill tap and install a set screw.
Not sure if ya ever want to take that apart again.
I'm sure you realize ya might have a belt alignment issue causing premature belt ware.
Ya mind showing some pic.

Here's a picture of a set screw

 

[Chainlube]

I have a speedo app for my phone, I just turn it on and drive, it gives me top speed, average speed and distance traveled. You can examine all the data back at home.

 

[bike4life]

Not sure what your disc brake wheel hub and gear looks like
Instead of welding the disc brake wheel hub on. See if there is any way to drill tap and install a set screw.
Not sure if ya ever want to take that apart again.
I'm sure you realize ya might have a belt alignment issue causing premature belt ware.
Ya mind showing some pic.

Here's a picture of a set screw

lol thx for taking the time to take a picture of one. I appreciate it, but i know what they are lol... I am lazy, and decided to weld it at 4:00, you posted at 4:59.... YIKES Maybe i will have to travel back in time. Just kidding..... I think the weld will be ok. I did a tiny tack weld like a little tiny blop, so i can easily grind it out. Used E-6013 because it doesnt dig into stuff, so it will be easier to grind out. I didnt realize how weak most thread locks are .

So far, the belt alignment is okay. I think it maybe was because it was too tight or gearing. Like i torqued the bolt on the output of the Tq converter so much that even when i was pushing the bike it was tough, probably like over did it, maybe like 40ft - lbs...

Too bad i couldnt test it today, i have to wait 24hrs for the thread lock, eventhough its probably weak and the weld would do, i was like well might as well play it safe.

 

[bike4life]

I have a speedo app for my phone, I just turn it on and drive, it gives me top speed, average speed and distance traveled. You can examine all the data back at home.

Yeah i prefer not to use my data, but if it works for you, then hey Its a 9 dollar tachometer with a lil magnet that bolts to a wheel and it passes a little sensor thing that counts rpms when the magnet energizes a little coil in the sensor from Faradays law. Its just the lcd screen is pretty dim so you can only see it in the day... One day i was bored so i launched waze and ran as fast as i could with sandals on. I got i think 18mph or maybe it was 16mph top speed, lol.

 

[Wrench]

Will fix that by adding a little training wheel thing on the side maybe....

Saw these training wheels, Thought they were perfect for you.