Project Drop Loop Board Tracker. Maybe🤔

DieselTech

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Well keep seeing all the cool bikes on the forum and elsewhere & figured it's time to start another build. Well here is what I got. Lmfao all you fellow motor bikers are thinking to yourself WTF!!! But this is going to be a long build, I think. Lmao it comes down to junkyard inventory & my wallet. The worksman wheels I want are $700 alone, so I'm a pinching my Penny's & my butt cheeks!!!🤣😂🤣
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My question to you folks out there, what tubing thickness do you guys & gals feel is sufficient for making a frame from scratch. I'm talking 1" chromoly tubing & mild steel tubing for the main frame & 3/4" tubing for the rear wheel stays. I'm thinking .065" in Chromoly. I'm thinking. 080" on the mild steel. What your thoughts on thickness & material choice. Metal shop calling me 2mrow with prices on tubing.
 
Depends on the powerplant, obviously the thicker the better (in a lot of ways ;))

.120 is common in the motorcycle frame world, i would want to stick with at least .100 to have a safe cushion imho. you could go .80 for a lighter weight frame with a CG-style power plant (or a 3hp brings motor)

.120 is easier to weld due to the thickness, but harder to bend, and vice versa on the .stuff <.080.

Material choice depends on what you're looking for, 4130 is great for a rigid frame that handles awesome, but if overly stressed can crack rather than bend (but i doubt that will happen) vs a more mild steel that will dampen some of the vibration coming from the motor, but will be a weaker metal.
 
Depends on the powerplant, obviously the thicker the better (in a lot of ways ;))

.120 is common in the motorcycle frame world, i would want to stick with at least .100 to have a safe cushion imho. you could go .80 for a lighter weight frame with a CG-style power plant (or a 3hp brings motor)

.120 is easier to weld due to the thickness, but harder to bend, and vice versa on the .stuff <.080.

Material choice depends on what you're looking for, 4130 is great for a rigid frame that handles awesome, but if overly stressed can crack rather than bend (but i doubt that will happen) vs a more mild steel that will dampen some of the vibration coming from the motor, but will be a weaker metal.
Well I got a brand new 670 predator V-twin that I could put in it!!! I got a rigid mini chopper I built years ago out of .080" wall 3/4" chromoly tubing & that bike is almost 7ft long. It's like riding a leaf spring with a wheel at each end, it's got lots of flex. I'm planning on using a 212 predator stood straight up, will see what oiling issues I find. I know most motorcycles use .120 chromoly tubing but larger diameter. I'm betting I'm not going to like the price of any chromoly tubing. Lmao I got enough chromoly bikes to cut up thou, if I cant afford to build a frame from scratch. Thanks.
 
Well I got a brand new 670 predator V-twin that I could put in it!!! I got a rigid mini chopper I built years ago out of .080" wall 3/4" chromoly tubing & that bike is almost 7ft long. It's like riding a leaf spring with a wheel at each end, it's got lots of flex. I'm planning on using a 212 predator stood straight up, will see what oiling issues I find. I know most motorcycles use .120 chromoly tubing but larger diameter. I'm betting I'm not going to like the price of any chromoly tubing. Lmao I got enough chromoly bikes to cut up thou, if I cant afford to build a frame from scratch. Thanks.
Yeah, if you're going with the 670 id spend the extra on .120 chrome. Otherwise, you could use .080 if your on a budget with closer bracing. Most steel supply places give you a better premium if you buy the full stock (usually 12ft) rather than having to cut up stock.
 
Yeah, if you're going with the 670 id spend the extra on .120 chrome. Otherwise, you could use .080 if your on a budget with closer bracing.
No some day I'll do a 670 build on a bike build. But not this go around. I'm thinking .080" with some strategically placed gussets & triangulated placed tubing. Bulk of my money is going into the worksman drum brake wheels, with the rear wheel being a 3 or 5 speed internal gear hub.
 
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That horn coming off of the seat tube looks OEM and not sawed off. How did anyone cut off the top tube with that covering it? Never seen a frame horn[?] like that.
 
Honeslty if your going with a belt drive id save the money and get a single speed rear hub.

ive seen someone on here take a go-kart clutch and just weld up a V-belt pulley to the outer drum. (Actually, here's a one made by max torque https://www.amazon.com/Max-Torque-V...cphy=9019592&hvtargid=pla-1624551091820&psc=1)
Heres is another one for a clogged belt https://www.gopowersports.com/max-t...m7ahUCBAne_Hk3Mi2srWIohBuOmR7rW0SjU4NK_vaz_a0
Yeah I'm looking at that v-belt clutch you posted. I just want a internal gear hub wheel in case my project takes a turn. I might change my mind & what a shifter bike. Lmao the rear wheel with IGH is a want, not a need. It's when you jump from the 3 speed to the 5speed hub is when the wheel really takes a price hike. So I prolly just get the 3 speed drum brake wheel. Debating on a stainless wheel ring or a double wall aluminum wheel rings in my choice of color.
 
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