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Tubes Puncture Free Tire?

B

BTB Wild

Guest
How many of you guys have taken the extra step to install a puncture free tire? Why not simply carry a small bottle of SLIME and a hand pump in your bag? Before I install my kit ( received today) I'd like to consider why I should bother with a tire upgrade? Seems to me a few onces of SLIME and my mini-pump will weigh far less.
I found an entry level Schwinn ( called a "Clear Creek" 18 speed) with a seat post shock and front shocks. The frame and fork drop-out seem to meet the criteria for a simple install. ( I'll post pics later) Now..about the tire? Thanks.
 


M

mickey

Guest
I got a couple of punctures and switched to a pre-slimed tube. All good since.

I looked at the ClearCreek and it didn't have enough room to fit a Happy Times into it. Are you going rackmount?

Mickey
 
B

BTB Wild

Guest
Clear Creek

Yep, I'm going rack mount with the Tanaka 33cc. I bought the Schwinn a few days ago. I was second guessing the whole idea of putting the motor on my GT i-drive 3.0 bike. I love the GT just as it is so I figured I'd try the kit on a new bike and see what happens.
The Clear Creek seems to fit the criteria for an easy GEBE install. But I'm sure I'll find several ways to make the install difficult.:oops:
 
S

smapadatha

Guest
How many of you guys have taken the extra step to install a puncture free tire?
My current flat defense system is:
1. Kevlar tires: Schwalbe Big Apple 2.35" on the front and a Armadillo Hemisphere 1.95" on the back.
2. Mr. Tuffy liners front and back.
3. Downhill tubes front and back; as thick as thorn-resistant tubes, but all the way around.
4. Road kit contains 2 spare tubes, patch kit, C02 cartridges and C02 dispenser; plus a Snickers bar because those things really *are* satisfying.

Why not simply carry a small bottle of SLIME and a hand pump in your bag? Before I install my kit ( received today) I'd like to consider why I should bother with a tire upgrade?
I can't say you *should* upgrade. There are a number of flatproofing systems out there, each with its pros and cons. One problem with doing research on the internet is that, no matter what product you are looking up, you always find 50 people who loved it and 50 people who hated it.

When I was researching flatproofing systems, I spoke to 2 local bike mechanics who had tried the Slime system and didn't like it. I can't remember why though. Since then I guess I've been a little prejudiced against it. Also, the solution I use works, so I have no motivation to change.

BTW: interesting review of air free tires:
http://felixwong.com/news/2006/12/air-free-tires/

Seems to me a few onces of SLIME and my mini-pump will weigh far less.
Maybe... but once you put an engine on your bike, you no longer have to worry about every gram. Motorized bikes are sometimes called "engine assist", but the motor puts out so much more power than an average person, it's really you assisting the engine, not the reverse. I go up steep hills at about 10-15 mph using an R/S 35cc which is hauling close to 300 pounds, so I don't worry about saving a few grams with a mini-pump.

Personally I think those little teeny bike pumps are for the birds. I used one once - NEVER AGAIN! The C02 solution is more expensive up front, but if you spend the money on a decent flatproofing solution, you will very rarely need to fill your tires on the road, so it is almost a one-time expense.

Hope this helps,

-Sam
 
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B

BTB Wild

Guest
Thanks Sam for the good info. I like the CO2 idea. I bought a CO2 kit for my ATV so it makes sense to carry it on my bike. I like a pneumatic tire. I routinely carry a tire gauge and I usually inflate my tires on the high side before a ride. I'll release some air depending on riding conditions ( off road, gravel etc) and match the tire pressure between tires using the gauge.
I don't think I need to " fix" the bike on the road......the goal would simply be to get back to my start point. I heard SLIME gums up the wheel etc. but it still makes more sense to me than lugging tools, dropping the wheel and engine, and trying to repair on location.
I guess I'm answering my own question. But then again thsi is my first experience with a motorized bike so I'm sure my opinions will change.:-/
 

azbill

Active Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2006
Messages
3,721
I have heard instances of slime filled tubes getting hot from the higher speeds that we do, causing them to burst
no personal experience, but I have heard of it happening
 

bamabikeguy

Active Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2006
Messages
1,929
$7 slime tubes will hold air for months at a time, $10 puncture resistant will too.

If nothing else, concentrate on the back.

I will tell you ONE absolute truth about the new speeds and wheels. The little rubber gasket covering the spoke ends is too thin to withstand the speed and consistent air pressure on better tubes, and THAT is just as likely a place to cause a flat as road debris.

Three layers of something (I use electric tape) will stop that future hassle....
 
D

DougC

Guest
$7 slime tubes will hold air for months at a time, $10 puncture resistant will too.

If nothing else, concentrate on the back.

I will tell you ONE absolute truth about the new speeds and wheels. The little rubber gasket covering the spoke ends is too thin to withstand the speed and consistent air pressure on better tubes, and THAT is just as likely a place to cause a flat as road debris.

Three layers of something (I use electric tape) will stop that future hassle....
I hate those things--the cheap plastic bands they use for tube/spoke protection now! They're useless. Whenever I get new wheels or a new bike, I pay a couple bucks for a pair of fabric adhesive rim tape and toss the plastic band in the trash. The fabric rim tape has worked for decades.

.....
My motored-bike isn't really running yet. I have some while Kenda tires for it, dunno what I'll do about the flat tire situation for that.

On my commuting/city bike, I use flat-resistant innertubes (double-thick in the tread area) inside of Schwalbe Marathon Plus tires and no slime. The city bike is the one that I ride around in town at night and cannot possibly avoid every sharp object on the ground. No flats so far, after a few months of city riding.
.....
The Marathon Plus's are a very puncture-resistant tire but the widest they come is 1.75 inches. On a regular 15-mph bicycle that works for me but I weigh about 280 lbs; on a 30-mph motor bicycle I'd want fatter 2.25" tires.

On my long-distance bicycle I use regular tubes and regular Kenda Kwest tires, and I don't ride in the debris. I take the right-side of the lane and usually make cars pass around me, I simply refuse to ride through lots of road grit. I carry a pump, patch kit and spare tubes but it's pretty rare that I get any flat tires. I'll probably put Marathon Plus's on this bike too, when I wear the rear Kenda out. The Marathon Plus's cost $50 each and I have to mail-order them anyway, so I'm in no hurry.

I've never tried it myself, but I understand that Slime is a mixed bag overall. Works great much of the time, but is rather a mess when it doesn't.

I haven't tried the air-free tires. They must be ordered according to your weight and I have read it online that they are made of urethane instead of rubber and they don't have very good traction when the road is wet.

--------

Of all these, the only one that's certain is (-maybe-) the airless tires. I've heard of people doing all this other stuff and still getting flats.
~
 
L

larymor

Guest
I have close to 300 miles on my MB and no flats yet. ( Knock on wood ).... I have the stock tire and tube. I run a R/S35 from GEBE on a 26" mountain bike, a $100 aluminum full suspension elcheapo bike. So far so good.
 

bamabikeguy

Active Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2006
Messages
1,929
Jack ordered a pair of $30 kevlar 2.25's, I'm getting one of those for Rocinante's rear. I've only been usind $12 stock Kendas since bike number one, but this is the single improvement made to the tube/liner/electric tape combo.
 
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