Putting together my Phantom.

I decided to tinker with it a bit, so I pulled the engine mount and kickstand to paint them. I also bolted on one of the kit tanks for temporary and put an air cleaner on it. I need to go to Walmart and get a pedal chain and get a gallon of ethanol free gas and ai should be due for a test rip.
IMG_20240718_134024485_HDR.jpg
 
Well I finally got to putting my Phantom together and I am hoping to have a bike to mount it to next week. I am thinking of buying a different piston just to up compression a little. I would also throw some caber rings in it if I go this route. Idk, maybe a mod for later. I was gonna run one base gasket and I don't think it will change port timing enough to change much.

I got everything greased up with some red n tacky and I put everything together without rinsing the bottom end (I just got in the goove and completely forgot that step, so I'll bedoing that) i am overall happy with how it's coming together and I'm considering of overhauling it after it's broken in just to get it's potential to go even further.

Overall I just would like to know if there is anything else I need to know about putting my engine together, and if I should wait to put a different piston in it or if I should just do it now to get things over with.
The side ports on the piston, along with material, will be the greatest advantage. Playing with transfer heights is a battle as more duration is "more air" and lower transfer duration gives more velocity to a point. I like WOT and WOT likes <150psi cold crank compression to last at all from my experience (something that seems rarely discussed vs squish gap). So playing with base height and pistons is a one off battle.
I also forgot to mention I already plan to.do this with the front. I also plan to weld in a front mount. 110 flux core should do the trick on that right?
I like to use two of the mounts that use 2 U bolts. Torque, vibration, the "high tension" thin steel all creates a mount that is less than desirable even with perfect welds. Here's a pic of how I've got mine set up. It makes swapping out engines a breeze as well. I've got well over 2k miles with no adjustment.
20240718_162756_HDR.jpg
OK Gordy, now it's time for you to get into your PJs, go brush your teeth and go to bed like a good "widdle" boy, tomorrow is a school day...lol...lol...lol.

Mommy will be right in to tell you a bedtime story and tuck you in for the night...lol.
Oof!
But Mommy is gonna be right in to tell you a bedtime story and tuck you in for the night...lol.
Double OOOOF!
Hopefully I can get some solder today to measure squish gap. If I can find some good full conventional 2 stroke oil in town today I'll bench fire it and see how it runs.
I like Klotz.
So what do you guys think of using caber rings for this project? They are high quality rings, but the more I think about it it is unnecessary since the phantom isn't known to have problems with rings
Rougher rings are rougher on your cylinder walls, but I'm unfamiliar with these.
Because I'll have to order them. I plan 5o possibly push this engine to 40 or 45 for an extended period for trips into town. I am going to get a tach with a heat gauge to keep an eye on head temp
All of my "Runlong" (I think) temp sensors have failed after 300-350°. I have not found a better option.
Aftrt some consideration I'm gonna go to the auto parts store to get some 1mm thick gasket material just to be on the safe side
I got a "brothers scan n cut" for this puropse
I cleaned up the ugly mess of wires that come out of here with a different grommet and heat shrink. I think it looks better.
View attachment 204832
Throw some "right stuff" in there if you plan on riding in the wet/dirt.
I didn't really feel like that much prep work. This one came out nicely, so I'm happy with it
Not to mention deformation on cast chineesium with already loose tolerances.
REALLY???...My first hit on my browser came up with it no problem and I have heard of and used Champion, Champion Brands and Champion Laboratories products many times over many years...Surprised that you haven't heard of Champion Spark Plugs, etc, especially since you espouse to be a lube and grease chemist and have claimed to have worked in a laboratory with many patents to your credit.
Bottom-Section-Logos.png

So many aircraft and mopar require champion plugs. 2 stroke oil is Klotz all the way.
Allowing yourself to be misled by some companies self-agrandised advertising propaganda once again???...lol...And exactly what does "Pro-grade" supposed to actually mean in a motor oil???...Those words are nothing more than BS advertising propaganda hype wording like we have discussed in the past...If you hadn't got hung up on ad propaganda hype words, you would have found this on the net right off, just like I did...lol.
It's PROpaganda grade! Like most others HAHA
Well, I have tube liners, a speedometer cable, oil, 36t sprocket, 203mm disc rotor, and a freewheel on order. It all should be here in the next week or so. I almost forgot the freewheel lol. I might need to teim the speedometer cable because it is 40 inches long, but that shouldn't be too hard. I want the cable driven speedometer to keep track of mileage. I don't want to guess on mileage.
Magnetic sensor is more accurate.
Come to think of it, the Hyper style handlebars would be perfect on an MTB...They are just so damn comfortable to ride with.
OOOOOOoooooOoo Damien said the "D word" hahaha

Yea I'm late to the convo. Here's my 2 cents.
 
The side ports on the piston, along with material, will be the greatest advantage. Playing with transfer heights is a battle as more duration is "more air" and lower transfer duration gives more velocity to a point. I like WOT and WOT likes <150psi cold crank compression to last at all from my experience (something that seems rarely discussed vs squish gap). So playing with base height and pistons is a one off battle.

I like to use two of the mounts that use 2 U bolts. Torque, vibration, the "high tension" thin steel all creates a mount that is less than desirable even with perfect welds. Here's a pic of how I've got mine set up. It makes swapping out engines a breeze as well. I've got well over 2k miles with no adjustment.
View attachment 216030

Oof!

Double OOOOF!

I like Klotz.

Rougher rings are rougher on your cylinder walls, but I'm unfamiliar with these.

All of my "Runlong" (I think) temp sensors have failed after 300-350°. I have not found a better option.

I got a "brothers scan n cut" for this puropse

Throw some "right stuff" in there if you plan on riding in the wet/dirt.

Not to mention deformation on cast chineesium with already loose tolerances.

So many aircraft and mopar require champion plugs. 2 stroke oil is Klotz all the way.

It's PROpaganda grade! Like most others HAHA

Magnetic sensor is more accurate.

OOOOOOoooooOoo Damien said the "D word" hahaha

Yea I'm late to the convo. Here's my 2 cents.
Most of the work has been done lol. You are quite "tardy to the party" as Damien would say.
 
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