Quality Control-Continued


Active Member
Local time
3:27 AM
Jan 31, 2008
South Australia
Continuation from


I just though I'd re-hash this thread/topic cos I've noticed a few new members and the quality issue is something I personaly don't want HT Land manufacturers think it will simply "go away".
We have to stay on top of it and be vigilant not to our suppliers, but right back to the manufacturer.
But for now, I do quality upgrades myself starting with all external Nuts,Bolts,Washers etc. and let my supplier know in a positive light.

I replace with industrial quality range, because these engines vibrate and steel production in HT Land has a long way to go to get it up to specs. if the HT Land have the capacity to do so !
Also, the chain tensioner Nuts and Bolts, I like to tighten them up and know the threads are not going to strip or the washers are not going to snap in half after the 3rd chain tension adjustment.
It's no use complaining all the time, for the price of a fasterner upgrade, by the time you finish writing or phoning your grief through to the manufacturer in pigeon english, you'd would have fixed it.

The next item in the llst is something I am going to experiment with and that is the clutch levers and that ball bearing.
I'd replace the ball bearing that sits in the sprocket shaft and case harden the pin.
Then case harden the lever and add a brass bush in where the lever goes on the alloy cover.

There is suppoise to be a brass bush type of thing, because I cannot see any engine designer omitting a bush in the original blueprints of those engines.

Each time the clutch is pressed, the rod pushes hard up against the alloy and wears it out. I think then the manufacturers leave out that bush to save production costs ?? HELLO !
So I'll fit one myself, at least I know it's done.

All it takes is to play around with some sizes of brass tubing or copper pipe, a grinder if need be ( don't have lathe) and make it press fit.
That way the lever's pin won't rub up against the alloy cover.

Anyone can add to this quality upgrade kit thread based on your expirience and knowledge.
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hmm i think im the victim of poor wuality screws, i cant get the screws out of the cover plate over the sprocket so i can install the chain on my 48cc HT :(

any tips ? they just wont budge with any of my screwdrivers i even tried my drill with a screwdriver bit in it.
hmm i think im the victim of poor wuality screws, i cant get the screws out of the cover plate over the sprocket so i can install the chain on my 48cc HT :(

any tips ? they just wont budge with any of my screwdrivers i even tried my drill with a screwdriver bit in it.

They used to be brass screws that took an ordinary straight screw driver. Now they are phillips cross heads and they aren't brass. They can be very tight so you might need to borrow an impact screwdriver to shift them. When you get them loose try a bit of anti-seize on them before reinstalling the screws. If an impact screwdriver won't shift them I dont know what you can do. They are 6mm threaded bolts and shouldn't be hard to replace. Do hardware stores in the US sell metric stuff?
The best way to express dissatisfaction with the HT would have been for about 1000 HT riders to have brought a couple of discarded HT motors to the Olympic torch relay when it passed through San Fransisco last month and to have strewn them in front of the relay route. That would have been 2000 stuffed engines for them to jog through and for the world to laugh at.
A trick I use for stuck or rusted screws is to tap the handle of the screwdriver with a hammer several times. I don't know if it works for factory tightened screws. I had the same problem on my last build.
To get the screws out, if you have not used a penetrating lubricant yet- do so. Try heating the area of the screw a bit with a propane torch. Also, get a properly sized screwdriver bit and a quarter inch socket drive wrench and use a 6.5 mm (I think) or 1/4 inch socket to turn the bit....I may be off on the sizes, whatever fits the bit.
Houghmade mentioned the quarter inch socket. That worked for me.

A #2 Phillips head driver bit like the type that fits in a battery operated drill fits nicely in a small (6mm, I think) metric socket. you then fit this to your quarter inch ratchet. With the ratchet in the palm of your hand you have the leverage you need to get these loose.
impression well, besides poor screws ive now found out my clutch wont disengage either

We need more symptoms, a bit hard to see from here.

Some pointers though based on my own expirience and remedies from reading posts and fetor56's cable remedy.

1. Cable, use a stainless steal or high quality brake cable so it don't stretch as much.
If you have just instaslled your kit cable, chances are it has stretched,
and it will keep stretching, so you need to keep adjusting the cable at the clutch lever end, the lever located near the small chain sprocket.

2. Pin and ball bearing.
Check the pin, check the bearing. Is the bearing still round. Mine went flat.
Use a harder bearing.

3. Have you adjusted the clutch plate by removing the clutch cover.
If not, this is what you do.
a. Remove clutch cover.
b. Remove small lock screw.
c. Press and Lock clutch lever on handle bar.
d. Tighten star nut on clutch plate all the way in, and turn back a bit.
e. Replace small lock screw.
f. Release clutch lever.
g. Test clutch plate adjustment by rocking the bike, do the gears rotate ?
If they do rotate, it should be ok.
h. Press and lock clutch lever on handle bars again, rock bike back
and forth, do gears rotate ? If not, then it should be ok.
If Clutch lever is pressed and locked, and gears still rotate, get
back to us here and we'll try to sort the problem.

Post pictures of what you are doing, it will help us help you and help others.