Question about internal gear hubs

[Captain Rainmaker]

My current setup is a Sick Bike Parts shift kit with a traditional seven-speed rear cassette, and I'm looking to swap it out for an internal gear hub, like a Sturmey Archer. I have a few reasons for doing this: For one, I've been left stranded more than once by the chain coming off, getting tangled, or breaking, and a geared hub would let me run a stouter chain that won't have to move. And for two, half the gears on the seven-speed are essentially useless to me because of how close together the ratios are; even if a geared hub has fewer speeds, it'd be a more useful ratio spread.

I do have one question, though, more to help me plan my setup than anything else. Pretty much everything I've read says internal geared hubs shouldn't be shifted while under power. How big of a problem really is this? Should they be at a complete standstill when shifted, or is simply rolling off the throttle good enough?

My thinking is that if they're really really sensitive to power shifts, I could move the shifter over to my right-hand side, so I'm able to pull the clutch when shifting and give it the best chance of not dying a crunchy grindy death. But if it really isn't that big of a deal, then I guess I won't worry about it.

 

[Chainlube]

@GreasyChris has a five speed I think on his bike, maybe he'll chime in on how well it works.

 

[GreasyChris]

My current setup is a Sick Bike Parts shift kit with a traditional seven-speed rear cassette, and I'm looking to swap it out for an internal gear hub, like a Sturmey Archer. I have a few reasons for doing this: For one, I've been left stranded more than once by the chain coming off, getting tangled, or breaking, and a geared hub would let me run a stouter chain that won't have to move. And for two, half the gears on the seven-speed are essentially useless to me because of how close together the ratios are; even if a geared hub has fewer speeds, it'd be a more useful ratio spread.

I do have one question, though, more to help me plan my setup than anything else. Pretty much everything I've read says internal geared hubs shouldn't be shifted while under power. How big of a problem really is this? Should they be at a complete standstill when shifted, or is simply rolling off the throttle good enough?

My thinking is that if they're really really sensitive to power shifts, I could move the shifter over to my right-hand side, so I'm able to pull the clutch when shifting and give it the best chance of not dying a crunchy grindy death. But if it really isn't that big of a deal, then I guess I won't worry about it.

I run a jackshaft with a sturmey archer Rs-rk3 hub.
3 speeds is plenty. Your engine is only capable of pulling certain gear ratios. I use the jack shaft to drive a 44t sprocket on my crank then a 40t from the crank to an 18t on my hub. I can lift the front wheel from a stop and it tops out about 57 mph on the flats. You will not hurt this hub shifting under load, in fact it shifts better under load.

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

My current setup is a Sick Bike Parts shift kit with a traditional seven-speed rear cassette, and I'm looking to swap it out for an internal gear hub, like a Sturmey Archer. I have a few reasons for doing this: For one, I've been left stranded more than once by the chain coming off, getting tangled, or breaking, and a geared hub would let me run a stouter chain that won't have to move. And for two, half the gears on the seven-speed are essentially useless to me because of how close together the ratios are; even if a geared hub has fewer speeds, it'd be a more useful ratio spread.

I do have one question, though, more to help me plan my setup than anything else. Pretty much everything I've read says internal geared hubs shouldn't be shifted while under power. How big of a problem really is this? Should they be at a complete standstill when shifted, or is simply rolling off the throttle good enough?

My thinking is that if they're really really sensitive to power shifts, I could move the shifter over to my right-hand side, so I'm able to pull the clutch when shifting and give it the best chance of not dying a crunchy grindy death. But if it really isn't that big of a deal, then I guess I won't worry about it.

What size engine are you using?

A quick and inexpensive remedy you can do with a 2 level freewheel hub that uses a lock ring is use the following sprockets 34,28,22,16. Yes that's 666 on the spacing between the gear ratios. Depending on what you want to do will determine what reduction range ratio you'd like to use. All you'd have to buy is a 8 speed freewheel lock ring style for the 34t sprocket and 14t sprocket.

Here's a picture of a 5 sprocket freewheel I built. You can put a spacer all the way to the back of the hub and only use 4 sprockets. I grinded the teeth off two 14t sprockets for the end

 

[Captain Rainmaker]

...

That's a sweet looking ride, man.

Yeah, I was wanting a 3-speed. Probably the Sturmey XL-RD3 with the 90mm drum, since I currently have a rim brake out back and my frame has no mount for discs. I also got the cool stick shifter to go with it.

...

I have a 66cc with a reed valve. Your idea is actually pretty cool, but it only solves part of the problem for me. The main thing is I want to run a thicker chain and have it stay in one place, since there've been a number of times I went to shift, only to have the chain either come off and tie itself in knots or just up and snap. I fully admit these instances were quite possibly due to operator error, but I'd still like to have a more robust setup.

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

All chains aren't created equal. I personally like the SRAM 890 and the KMC X899. However if an IGH is what you want then consider a 5 speed.

 

[Don_Parsons]

Yes,,, I've been busy on other projects too play with transmission gear sets,,, eventually we will get at it...

They say that the 3 and 5 speed gear hubs are stronger then the 8 and 11 gear hubs...

Less gears leaves more room in the hubs so the internal parts can be beef'ier ,,, beef'ier parts are stronger,,,, apposed too the 11 gear ratio hub that has alot of gears...

Manufactures like too keep the weight down so they make the hub light weight and jam thin parts into some of these 8 and 11 gear set hubs,,, the advantage of the 2,,, 3,,, and 5 speed hubs are thicker parts,,, bigger shafts and bushings,,, thicker Shifting synchros and the gears them selves...

The 2 and 3 speed hubs are pretty strong,,, next strongest hub is the 5 speed followed by the 7 and 8 speed ,,, don't get me wright or wrong,,, the 11 speed hub has come along ways that have seen some improvements over the years,,, and the gear-less hubs are getting better too...

The call them the infinity speed hubs with no shifting points,,, a smooth transition from low speed too high speed,,, they require more service and proper tuning if a person wants too get the best performance and longevity out of them...

Infinity speed hubs are darn pricey too,,, real pricey... Ha...

Any-who,,, the 3 and 5 speed hubs are pretty strong and have a proven track record of durability from the information we've gathered...

Lots of information on the web pages on internal gear hubs,,, some manufacture are moving these gear change sets too the pedsl crank set Housings...

Less hammering on the internal parts since they are part of the bike that is alot smoother then a rear wheel that is constantly taking hits from road shock,,, the crank set gear idea runs in a much cleaner environment ahead of the rear wheel that sees alot of dirt and moisture back there...

Dirt and moisture are the biggest killers of internal gear hubs,,, its wize to pay attention too the end seals and staying on top of the recommended service inspections...

They will run along time if a person looks after them... another trick too longevity of internal gear hubs is selecting the gear you want too be in before shooting up the hill,,, theres nothing wrong with being in the gear ratio that will get you up the hill with out shifting..

Lots of pedal bike folks have wrecked internal gear hubs becuase of improper shift points with too much torque on the pedals at the wrong time.. if The Synchro forks get damaged from a improper shift,,, its only the matter of time when things pile up...

Some times blow'en up internal hubs can be saved,,, in most cases there done done...

If anything lets go on the inside of a internal hub,,, the loose peaces end up wrecking all of the little gears,,, the inside of the hub is also a gear,,, if it gets damaged,,, its cheaper too buy a whole new unit...

Any-who,,, follow the dudes on the pedal bike forums and take things in with a grain of salt,,, the 50/50 thing,,, some folks swear by them,,, other swear at them... Ha...

Again,,, look after it and tap it kool and enjoy the miles is one thing we read from many of the great reviews on them...

Jt

 

[Sidewinder Jerry]

That's a sweet looking ride, man.

Yeah, I was wanting a 3-speed. Probably the Sturmey XL-RD3 with the 90mm drum, since I currently have a rim brake out back and my frame has no mount for discs. I also got the cool stick shifter to go with it.
View attachment 103277


I have a 66cc with a reed valve. Your idea is actually pretty cool, but it only solves part of the problem for me. The main thing is I want to run a thicker chain and have it stay in one place, since there've been a number of times I went to shift, only to have the chain either come off and tie itself in knots or just up and snap. I fully admit these instances were quite possibly due to operator error, but I'd still like to have a more robust setup.

Another thing to consider about reducing the number of sprockets, you'll also be reducing the amount of cross chaining; thus reducing the amount of lateral stress on the chain.

Whichever way you go, I advise getting a tachometer. This will really help you when knowing when to shift.