question about springer install

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Feb 21, 2008
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quick question for those of you who have installed a springer fork. I just got mine yesterday from spooky, installing on a greenline BC-06 frame (same frames that most of spooky's bikes use). i harvested the bottom bearing retainer (no idea what its really called, see pic) from the old fork and then installed on the springer. upon installing the new fork in the frame and screwing on the top bearing retainer, all seems perfect. the issue i am having is that there seems to be very little thread left for the top nut to grab onto after installing the spring plate. (see pics). installing and tightening the top nut seems to work fine, but the fact that it is latched onto so little thread concerns me. has anyone else run into this? is it normal? is there something i should do/be aware of?

Thanks in advance!
 

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turkeyssr

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In the second picture you show the lower bearing and it seems as though it's not going alll the way down to the crown race. When it's installed is there a gap at the bottom of the fork? There shouldn't be any visible space or gap at the bottom when the fork is installed. You can use loose ball bearings versus those with a cage that you have. They're not fun when you have to service them, but they're actually better.

On to the threads. Measure the total length of your old fork steerer (not the "legs") and measure the length of threads on the old fork. Do the same for the new fork. Do they match? If not, then which is less? The new fork? I can't tell from the picture, but the top nut should go all the way down with no gap at the top. If it does this and holds tightly, I wouldn't be concerned. However, if it doesn't go all the way down, and there are visible threads in the nut, then you have a problem. If not, I wouldn't be concerned about how many treads it's locking on to. Sure, if you have some threads from the fork showing that wouldn't be a problem, but I think most bikes don't have any.

Can you use the old headset from the original fork? The new headset may have a different stack height. The stack height is how high the combined length of all of the nuts, when installed, is on the fork. They vary by make and brand. I assume both forks are true 1", so you can probably find a new headset relatively easily. Just measure the new fork with calipers to make certain it's a true 1" and not a BMX 7/8".
 

KilroyCD

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Dec 3, 2007
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You have the same type of springer that I have on my '46 Columbia motoredbike. I was looking at the bottom bearing sitting on the bearing race in the one photo. Try turning that bearing over, and see if it sits any lower on the race. I've had that happen to me before, where I put the bearing in upside down and suddenly everything is spaced incorrectly. Good luck!
 
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Feb 21, 2008
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the image of the bearing and crown race (thank you for the correct terms) was taken with the bearings barely sitting on there just so that i could get the picture. the bearings, bottom and top, seat up just like the stock fork did, as the they were both pulled from it. which is a 1" just like the springer.

is the "top nut" the round piece that threads onto steering neck (again, my not be the right term) and sits on the top bearing? (see pic) if so, what do you call the hex nut that threads on top of it? i may have the terms confused.

upon measuring, the lengths (from bottom of crown race to top of steering neck) are identical. the addition of the spring plate into the stack is really what causes there to be so few threads left on top, which makes me wonder why the springer wouldnt have a slightly longer neck? but it does lock down nicely and moves smooth, just on less threads. i will try flipping the bearings, just to see what happens.
 

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turkeyssr

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The 'top nut' is what threads on top of the 'nut' that sits against the bearing. It holds this in place to adjust the bearing. You hold the knurled piece and tighten the top nut once you have the bearings adjusted so it doesn't go out of adjustment.

I think you're correct that adding the springer may be causing the decrease in threads on top. I would like to see a picture of the top nut installed from the side and the top, with no handlebars/stem installed. A picture of the the bottom would be helpful to, in order to see that the bearing is installed correctly.
 

KilroyCD

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cherrybombking;109961... said:
is the "top nut" the round piece that threads onto steering neck (again, my not be the right term) and sits on the top bearing? (see pic) if so, what do you call the hex nut that threads on top of it? i may have the terms confused.
The "top nut" is known as an adjustable race, and the hex nut that threads on top is the lock nut. One thing that I have noticed with a number of my bike rebuilds, is that many times the bearings don't seat all the way until it's ridden. Once ridden, I've had to go back and tighten the adjustable race and lock nut again because the bearings seated a little better. This might allow for some more of the threaded part of the steering tube to stick up above the springer's attachment plate.
 
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Joined
Feb 21, 2008
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let me just say, you people are beyond helpful. if we ever meet up, i owe you drinks. or whatever your vice of choice is.
 
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Large Filipino

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My 2 cents to all this,the top nut holds what? The bearing nut holds the bearings together. That top nut basically just keeps the bearing nut and the springer shim from loosening.
So the biggest job here is keeping that springer shim on line.
That's really not a whole lot of stresses. Even if the top nut loosens off and the springer shim goes south,you still have full control of your bike.
Steering is handled by your gooseneck.
That should be enough threads.
 
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turkeyssr

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It would probably be okay. However, IMO, it should go all the way on. Otherwise, it's half-way, and halfway, is, well, half-way. Ultimately it's up to the Cherrybombking, but if they designed it to go half-way, they would all be that way. Just my $.02.
 
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