question about springer install

My 2 cents to all this,the top nut holds what? The bearing nut holds the bearings together. That top nut basically just keeps the bearing nut and the springer shim from loosening.
Large, in most cases you would be right. However, with the type of springer fork he has, the plate that mounts between the adjustable race and the lock nut is the plate that one end of the spring attaches to. It needs to be locked in place securely.

Cherrybombking - if you can't get much more threading to extend above the plate than currently shown, an extra measure of caution would be to use blue Lock-tite on the lock nut. Don't overtighten and chance stripping the nut. Tighten firmly and let the Lock-tite do the rest.
 
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more images, a per request.

you can see that the steering tubes on both stock and new fork are about the same. seems like the springer would have been designed a bit taller, considering the spring plate?

you can also see that both top and bottom races seem to seat on their bearings nicely. movement is smooth, for sure. i applied some pressure to the bottom bearings while they were just sitting on the crown race, i feel there is merit to the statement that these will seat up more as it is ridden. something i will watch.
 

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If you installed the bearing on the bottom as shown in the second photo at the start of this thread ? Then the bearing is installed upside down, and needs to be flipped over. the balls need to contact both the crown race and the cup race. In the photo at the beginning of this thread the bearing retainer is what is making the contact with the crown race. When installed properly the retainer essentially floats in the middle of the two races and bears no load. I think you will find that when you flip this bearing over the bottom of the crown race will be flush with the bottom headset cup. This will give you an additional 2-3 mm of thread for the top nut.

ocscully
 
I don't think I like the looks of that too much. It appears there might be too little thread screwed into the nut. On the other hand it might be ok. In picture five above, you might consider sanding down the top of that spring attach flange around one third of the way. The depth of the sand or grind down should be no more than about a quarter to a third and the grind diameter should be large enough to accommodate the nut diameter. That would give you more threading contact.
 
am going to try flipping the bearings this weekend and see what happens, will update pics. i also have an email in to spookytooth, these are the same frames and forks that they use. i would be curious to know what their solution is, as it seems they would encounter it fairly regularly?

had also thought about grinding the spring retainer shim down some, but didnt know if weakening it by removing material was the best idea, considering the spring tension. but i suppose that if i gain enough threads, the lock nut would support the thinner shim.

sweet. i love grinding.
 
That's odd- I have a springer that looks very similar, but the head tube was almost 9" long and I had to measure up and cut it off. I don't like the looks of that either. If that plate moves up should the nut come off, you won't lose the wheel and you can still steer, but the wheel would go forward and the bike would lower at the front...it could very well make a problem.
 
sweet link, adding to favorites.

i locked the spring retainer shim with the small allen bolt that runs though it, and then tightened up the lock nut. seems solid enough, was going to give it a test ride just to see how it would hold. but then wrapped my finger around a drill press. not pretty, but i still have the finger and the hand specialist said it will heal normally. anyway, pics of the bike as i left it.
 

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Geez- glad to hear you'll heal up.

Sounds like you found a pretty safe solution.
 
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