Like everybody else, (until MB.com came along and answers could be shared from the get-go), I didn't arrive at the 12 gauge steel solution the easy way, and when you break 2 or 3 aluminum spokes 5 miles from the house, hobbling home on foot, it gives you a lot of time to "
think about it."
Early on I read how BMX trail bike racers welded their spokes together, and that kind of wear and tear was the closest thing to racing thru potholed areas at 30 plus miles per hour.
If the BMX boys weld the spokes, I guess that means they can't adjust them, and live with a bit of wobble.
Likewise, if I zip-tie a brand new steel wheel, and make sure my spokering notches are lined up before snapping it on, so none are bent on the installation, that seems to be the best I can do, more or less "adequate".
Not perfect, but
never having another broke spoke is the primary goal, and trying to "flatproof" the tire so a fix on the side of the road is extremely rare, is the secondary goal.
Wobble would be third on the list, and when the combo of steel wheel, industrial tube and Mr. Tuffies weighs 9-10 pounds, even if you did everything nearly perfect, there would still be a slight wobbling.
I've never tried to "true the spokes" once I've got the thing up and running, just think steel and zip-ties give you the best chance to keep the bike between the ditches.
Some of my premontitons about using heavier spokes is confirmed in Wiki, and the wheel I built for the Denver run is still clicking along with no noticible alignment problems.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bicycle_wheel
Just my opinion, but I don't think perfection can be achieved thanks to the sorry state of the roads these days, and "prevention" of broken spokes and flat tires is all I can do to have carefree rides.
When a customer comes to pick up the bike, we take a ride around the neighborhood, and if both of us are satisfied the belt is centered, nothing is rubbing, putting a splash of fingernail polish on the axle threads signifies "this horse is ready to ride", gas and go.