Questions & Answers

Quenton Guenther

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Aug 2, 2007
Messages
2,125
Hi Beachflyer,

Mushroom lifters are a must for the NE series of motors. The camshaft lift was increased from .150" to .186" on the NE motors and the increased lift causes the 10 MM lifter to cut into the camshaft lobes. The solution is simple, just increase the lifter base size to .500" and the lifter "rolls" over the lobe instead of "dancing" down the ramp. Early NE motors employed softened lifters in an effort to match the metal hardness and managed to save the camshaft, but the lifters wore quickly. The later NE motors had mushroom lifters, however they were way too heavy and often the base wasn't level [lifter clearance varied as the lifter rotated]. The factory mushroom lifters can be modified to work well. I have had several hundreds of mushroom lifters made for the earlier motors, and still have a few sets left from the last run of chromeoly mushroom lifters somewhere in the stock room. Most likely all motors with the aluminum intake manifold also had the factory mushroom lifters.

have fun,
 
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BeachFlyer

New Member
Joined
Mar 24, 2013
Messages
2
Quenton, Thank you, I'll take a look to see which are installed and contact you if I need the chromemoly lifters. According to the magnet test the intake is aluminum. Also I appreciate your thread on the auto clutch it was very helpful and I am almost there. Next fine tuning idle speed. So far pretty fast with the modifications made.

Thanks again,
 

BlueWhizzer

Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2012
Messages
49
Quenton, a couple of questions about a vintage "H" engine i am rebuilding. The head has some fins broken off, do the new wc1 heads fit?

Also, my friend that is helping me rebuild this engine suggested we make a custom aluminum gasket for the head and not use the copper one? i think you wrote somewhere that the copper gasket helps keep the engine cooler?

Thanks Scott
 

Quenton Guenther

Motored Bikes Sponsor
Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Messages
2,125
Hi Scott,

The WC-1 head has a differet bolt pattern and won't fit. I wouldn't want to use a WC-1 head on a vintage motor anyway as it isn't anywhere near the quality of the vintage unit [aluminum is much better on the vintage head].

Whizzer made a aluminum gasket for the vntage motors, however it didin't take long to move to copper for many reasons. The copper can be used over and over, whereas the solid aluminum gasket has issues sealing if reused. The copper gasket will also lower the cylinder and head temp.

There are Re-pops of the vintage head and are so good, few experts can tell the difference.

Check with Memory lane Classics or CRYSTL Enginering [both located in Ohio] for replacement head.

Have fun
 

BlueWhizzer

Member
Joined
Mar 5, 2012
Messages
49
Quenton, i will probably just go with the stock head for now and replace the head when i have more funds available.

Thanks again,

Scott
 

HseLoMein

Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2008
Messages
175
Hello Quenton,

I am a new owner of a 2003 whizzer panther. i believe it has a wc1 engine in it that may have been moodified by the previous owner. He did add a manual belt tensioner for the front belt. Is this engine a good candidate for a wc1 to ne5 conversion? I also found a ne5 cylinder kit on ebay. Do you thing this would work as a bolt on solution?"

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cylinder-Kit-fits-NE5-and-newer-Fits-all-Whizzer-Motorbikes-/301121592044?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item461c3edaec&vxp=mtr
 

Quenton Guenther

Motored Bikes Sponsor
Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Messages
2,125
The 2003 Panther does have the WC-1 motor.

It isn't wise to purchase the current junk from Taiwan, as it is nothing more than rehashed defective parts. Look at the cylinder in the picture and you will see the "valve block". The valve block was nothing more than a failed attempt to upgrade defective cylinders. The head shown in the listing is also the failed "Block head" and over heats, and leaks compression near the rear center bolt hole. The kit pictured also needs the intake system revamped to use the original WC-1 carburetor.

Please also note the WC-1 cylinder can be fixed to work by simply using set screws in the side of the valve seats [have modified over 250 cylinders without any issues].

Hope this information is helpful.

Have fun,
 

HseLoMein

Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2008
Messages
175
How would you go and install the set screws in the valve seats? What other mods would you recommend for the WC-1? I would love to have better low end torque and get it up to a real 40mph.

Also what is the purpose of the belt tensioner on the front belt?
 

Quenton Guenther

Motored Bikes Sponsor
Joined
Aug 2, 2007
Messages
2,125
Basically the WC-1 motor has top end problems, but the balance of the system is very good.

There are a lot of small issues that should be attended to, such as removing the flywheel and Loctite the screws holding the stator plate to the crankcase.
Another issue that will need some TLC is the crankcase oil vent system [there should be several posts about the fix].

As far as installing set screws on the valve seats, I made special fixtures to mount the cylinder to my mill table, and would be required if someone else made the upgrade.

I drill & tap 4 areas, two on each seat. When done I also "peane" the aluminum around the seats for extra insurance.

The WC-1 motor if setup correctly should reach about 40 MPH, and with a little port work it can find it's way to 45 MPH or slightly higher.

Restrictor must be pulled from intake port, and the remaining surface should be polished. The top of the exhaust port should be "rounded" for better flow.

Head needs to be milled [.045" to .060"], and consider "up-sizing" the head bolt size from 6 MM to 8MM [or 5/16"].

Exhaust baffle is by far "terrible" and should be replaced with a later or aftermarket version.

Camshaft must be advanced ONE tooth.

Head gasket should be replaced with a copper version.

Lifters should be set at .007" ~ .008" intake, and .008" ~ .009" exhaust.


Belt tensioner is to make the poorly designed clutch system to work. The 4L290 front belt is a stupid choice, as it is a FHP [fractional horse power] belt and stretches and becomes sticky when hot. The correct belt has serious cords internally and has "notches" to allow it to go around small pulley without overheating. AX series or automotive wedge belt should be used to make the clutch work better. The correct front belt is an AX27 [29" long], or a 15275 automotive wedge belt. We use AX or automotive wedge belts in all our Q-Matic drives, and is supplied with the current automatic clutch we make for the Whizzer Motorbike, therefore we have used hundreds of them and not a single failure.

You should be able to purchase the needed belt from most auto parts stores.


Just a final comment, the motor design, mainly the camshaft reduces the low end torque for a higher revving motor, therefore an automatic clutch is much faster as it allow the motor to build up additional revolutions to access the torque quicker.


Hope this answered your questions, if not ask again.


Have fun,
 

Joe Andulics

New Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2017
Messages
28
What'a all involved in modifying the newer Whizzer piston to fit the older H & J models? Or what are the piston alternatives when rebuilding an original engine. Thanks
 
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