Questions & Answers

[Quenton Guenther]

Several times a week I receive emails, phone calls, and PMs with questions about the later edition Whizzer heads.

The most often asked question concerns the torque specs of the head bolts.

The second most asked question is about milling the head and the average cost.

The question in next place would be about the copper head gasket.

A new question has now surfaced and is moving up the list. Questions about the automatic compression release.

Here are the answers.........
Head bolt torque
175 ~ 180 INCH pounds 8 MM bolts
205 ~ 210 INCH pounds 10 MM bolts.
I suggest only ONE thick flat washer, and make special washer for under the 10 MM bolts, as they are "missing in action".

Milling the head is a good thing!
Not sure why the combustion chamber in the average Whizzer head is so deep, but reducing it will add a lot of low and mid range power to the equation. I used to charge $35.00, now I charge $45.00 plus shipping, I am only telling everyone this to give an idea of price. I suggest using your local machine shop, and if it costs a little more remember to deduct shipping cost in the final money spent.

Copper head gasket......
A no brainier, if you can find one you should use it. There are several types [of course]. Recently I saw a newer version, but hopefully I won't be a victim of it. The most recent version [I don't think Whizzer USA has this type] is a copper gasket with a pressure groove. Gaskets with the groove are one-time events. The current copper gasket can be used over and over and saves a lot of bucks in the process. Sadly none of the gasket matches the combustion chamber, and some are worse than others, however they are better than the original steel versions [they didn't match the combustion chamber either]. The steel gaskets are. .010" and the copper are .020" [there goes your compression again].

And now the answer that everyone has been waiting for.

Information on the compression release mounted in the head, known as the automatic release. When the exhaust pipe on my 2008 Ambassador turned a deep blue about 1" from the manifold, my first thought was "Houston we have a problem" [actually Dallas we have a problem would have been more accurate]. It managed to turn blue during a short 15-mile ride. Of course I know that is the warning sign about the motor running lean, you know I will need to invent a phrase for this problem. How about "Pipe turning blue, Is a big clue". Funny things happen when the compression assembly opens during normal operation, including causing an instantly lean motor. After I purchased a quantity of the new compression release assembly for stock [wish I didn't] I found out all of them are scheduled to fail. Looks like someone forgot that the spring had to be of quality and not lose all it temper after a few runs over 500 degrees.

Get that release out of there if you own an electric start Ambassador! My bike stats much easier without the release, period. A bolt from ACE hardware worked well for me. I purchase a 10 MM bolt, cut off the end so that it was even with the inside of the combustion chamber, and all was well. I sold a bunch of the special heads with the extra 10 MM hole and usually made a custom bolt and included it with them.

If you have the new NE-r, I guess converting back to the manual compression release system would be a workable option.

Have fun,

 

[Kep1a]

Thanks Quenton!

And Mod can we get a Sticky please!

 

[buddyearl]

Joe from Taiwan is offering a double ignition kit for the Ambassador. We talked about this in one of our phone conversations. I think others would be interested in your comments
on adding this device to a Whizzer Ambassador.

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi buddyearl,

It might be wise to start this post with a few facts. Looks like someone is offering a solution to a problem that may not exist. It would be best to cover the description concerning the new ignition...........

The shape of burning cavity of cylinder head is more irregular than the current 4 stroke engine should be, which caused the gasnot to be burnt completely. The Double Ignition Coil can increase the burning efficiency and increase the engine performance..

I must agree with the information concerning "shape of burning cavity of cylinder head is more irregular than the current 4 stroke engine should be". The question should be, who brought us this irregular piece of art? I find it less than funny that the same company that produced the head is now willing to sell us a fix [I personally will pass on the fix].

Does it work? When I tried it on my Ambassador it ran much worse. I remember the craze in the late 60s and 70s to use 2 spark plugs on our race bikes, and it didn't take long to scrap the idea and get back to some serious racing.

A word of caution, and please be very careful, it is important to note that during my racing career, I watched many motors die from using a spark that was too hot. I myself totally wasted a 250 Ducati [very hard to break a Ducati single] by using 2 spark plugs at a race in Hamilton, Ohio. When I removed the head I was treated with a large hole in the top of the piston.

Sorry, but with the less than stellar engineering in the past , including thier re-designed combustion chamber, I would want to see real data [test results] before I would invest in their latest fix.

The question might be, what would happen if I located a spark plug tip into the combustion chamber to disrupt the pattern? Another question might be, why did so many companies over the last 100 years locate the spark plug in a certain area on a flat head motor, and suddenly someone tells us it might [no data supplied] work better located in a new area? How about this question..... The motor already runs really , really, really hot so when we add a second spark plug, might the head temp go even higher?

Sorry but ignition on a Whizzer hasn't been a problem, and the only reason the fuel doesn't burn well is because of head design and over jettted carburetors.

My stable of "quick" Whizzers only use one plug and a completely stock CDI, and coil.
Using the special IRD plug only added a few RPMs to my motors, usually less than 50.

Hope this information helps,

 

[Don Brown]

Hi Quenton, The last time I talked to you was probably 2 yrs.ago. I live in your old "stomping grounds" Dayton Ohio. To make it short I have a WC1 (2000) and at this point it is still running great. I installed an automatic clutch and now it has 1020 mi. total. I read a message that the NE5 conversion kits are getting scarce. How long will it be before you will no longer have the $375 upgrade? I have put off getting one because I don't know if I can tear it down and install the "kit" my self. I don't know how much longer I will keep the bike either as I just turned 80 last week but still "putting around" on the bike. Let me know what you think. Thanks

Don Brown

 

[Quenton Guenther]

Hi Don,

Due to the demand I doubt the inventory of upgrade parts will last much longer. I am down to the last 8 [of the rare early NE cylinders], although I was planning on keeping them for my personal use, I have now elected to sell a few of them. Installing the kit is basic and isn't to difficult to do. There are approx. 7000 WC-1 motors that will need upgraded, therefore the demand will easily outpace the supply.

If a Whizzer WC-1 is used on a limited basis and the valve seats work loose you can always locate a new WC-1 cylinder to prolong the life of the motor. The average life span of a WC-1 is normaly between 400 to 600 miles, and I have enough new WC-1 cylinders on the shelves to keep many motors running for years if needed.

Have fun,

 

[btr]

Holly %*#@$! early NE cylinder

Mr. Guenther I do not understand! It's the same size cylinder, but after I got off the phone today, cleaned off the red silicone like you said, and took it for 2nd test ride....This is what I was hoping for...@ Top throttle on flat to LIGHT downhill 45 to 48 mph (b4 35 to 41) on steep uphill 38 to 41 mph (b4 24 to 30) more importantly take off from dead stop is much better keeping up with flow of traffic and sounds louder and meaner. I really hope it stays this way. At last, this Saturday I am taking this beast for ride to downtown Atlanta at my favorite watering hole (FADO-Irish pub). I finally found the source of oil leak, it was the hose between the lifter cover and breather which I just replace with new steel braided hose. I definitely want to install your high-fin milled head to keep the performance way it is. People keep driving next to me taking photo with their cell phones, I see the kids screaming at their parents with their hands pressed against the window and so far 3 police officers have stopped me to ask questions about my bike.
I'll send the video of the motor you asked for tomorrow. Much Thanks, Henry

 

[john hamilton]

What year whizzer do you have? What have you done too it? I have a 1998 and bought a head from Guenterand a auto clutch. I am still trying to get it to go faster. Any help would be appreciated. John

 

[btr]

2008 Ambassador 2

Hey John, just came back from riding my bike. I have Ambassador 2, you can see my bike under Picture Gallery 7-28-2009. I had the head milled by Mr. Guenther and replaced the cylinder that came with the bike with Mr Guenther's High Performance Early NE cylinder. Now I have the power and speed that I wanted. I just found out last night that I should take off the head and clean it every 150 miles. There were clumps of rock-hard carbon which I had to break off with a screwdriver then clean with sandpaper and a rag. The bike ran much better today roaring at 45 to 48 mph. I'm waiting for Mr. Guenther's High-Fin milled head which will help to keep the performance consistant with lower running temperature. Don't get fooled by parts with same labels and lower price, he only sells quality parts he worked on and inspected and throws away parts that has any blimish. You can trust his advice to make your bike better.

 

[btr]

Speed

and FASTER