Several times a week I receive emails, phone calls, and PMs with questions about the later edition Whizzer heads.
The most often asked question concerns the torque specs of the head bolts.
The second most asked question is about milling the head and the average cost.
The question in next place would be about the copper head gasket.
A new question has now surfaced and is moving up the list. Questions about the automatic compression release.
Here are the answers.........
Head bolt torque
175 ~ 180 INCH pounds 8 MM bolts
205 ~ 210 INCH pounds 10 MM bolts.
I suggest only ONE thick flat washer, and make special washer for under the 10 MM bolts, as they are "missing in action".
Milling the head is a good thing!
Not sure why the combustion chamber in the average Whizzer head is so deep, but reducing it will add a lot of low and mid range power to the equation. I used to charge $35.00, now I charge $45.00 plus shipping, I am only telling everyone this to give an idea of price. I suggest using your local machine shop, and if it costs a little more remember to deduct shipping cost in the final money spent.
Copper head gasket......
A no brainier, if you can find one you should use it. There are several types [of course]. Recently I saw a newer version, but hopefully I won't be a victim of it. The most recent version [I don't think Whizzer USA has this type] is a copper gasket with a pressure groove. Gaskets with the groove are one-time events. The current copper gasket can be used over and over and saves a lot of bucks in the process. Sadly none of the gasket matches the combustion chamber, and some are worse than others, however they are better than the original steel versions [they didn't match the combustion chamber either]. The steel gaskets are. .010" and the copper are .020" [there goes your compression again].
And now the answer that everyone has been waiting for.
Information on the compression release mounted in the head, known as the automatic release. When the exhaust pipe on my 2008 Ambassador turned a deep blue about 1" from the manifold, my first thought was "Houston we have a problem" [actually Dallas we have a problem would have been more accurate]. It managed to turn blue during a short 15-mile ride. Of course I know that is the warning sign about the motor running lean, you know I will need to invent a phrase for this problem. How about "Pipe turning blue, Is a big clue". Funny things happen when the compression assembly opens during normal operation, including causing an instantly lean motor. After I purchased a quantity of the new compression release assembly for stock [wish I didn't] I found out all of them are scheduled to fail. Looks like someone forgot that the spring had to be of quality and not lose all it temper after a few runs over 500 degrees.
Get that release out of there if you own an electric start Ambassador! My bike stats much easier without the release, period. A bolt from ACE hardware worked well for me. I purchase a 10 MM bolt, cut off the end so that it was even with the inside of the combustion chamber, and all was well. I sold a bunch of the special heads with the extra 10 MM hole and usually made a custom bolt and included it with them.
If you have the new NE-r, I guess converting back to the manual compression release system would be a workable option.
Have fun,
The most often asked question concerns the torque specs of the head bolts.
The second most asked question is about milling the head and the average cost.
The question in next place would be about the copper head gasket.
A new question has now surfaced and is moving up the list. Questions about the automatic compression release.
Here are the answers.........
Head bolt torque
175 ~ 180 INCH pounds 8 MM bolts
205 ~ 210 INCH pounds 10 MM bolts.
I suggest only ONE thick flat washer, and make special washer for under the 10 MM bolts, as they are "missing in action".
Milling the head is a good thing!
Not sure why the combustion chamber in the average Whizzer head is so deep, but reducing it will add a lot of low and mid range power to the equation. I used to charge $35.00, now I charge $45.00 plus shipping, I am only telling everyone this to give an idea of price. I suggest using your local machine shop, and if it costs a little more remember to deduct shipping cost in the final money spent.
Copper head gasket......
A no brainier, if you can find one you should use it. There are several types [of course]. Recently I saw a newer version, but hopefully I won't be a victim of it. The most recent version [I don't think Whizzer USA has this type] is a copper gasket with a pressure groove. Gaskets with the groove are one-time events. The current copper gasket can be used over and over and saves a lot of bucks in the process. Sadly none of the gasket matches the combustion chamber, and some are worse than others, however they are better than the original steel versions [they didn't match the combustion chamber either]. The steel gaskets are. .010" and the copper are .020" [there goes your compression again].
And now the answer that everyone has been waiting for.
Information on the compression release mounted in the head, known as the automatic release. When the exhaust pipe on my 2008 Ambassador turned a deep blue about 1" from the manifold, my first thought was "Houston we have a problem" [actually Dallas we have a problem would have been more accurate]. It managed to turn blue during a short 15-mile ride. Of course I know that is the warning sign about the motor running lean, you know I will need to invent a phrase for this problem. How about "Pipe turning blue, Is a big clue". Funny things happen when the compression assembly opens during normal operation, including causing an instantly lean motor. After I purchased a quantity of the new compression release assembly for stock [wish I didn't] I found out all of them are scheduled to fail. Looks like someone forgot that the spring had to be of quality and not lose all it temper after a few runs over 500 degrees.
Get that release out of there if you own an electric start Ambassador! My bike stats much easier without the release, period. A bolt from ACE hardware worked well for me. I purchase a 10 MM bolt, cut off the end so that it was even with the inside of the combustion chamber, and all was well. I sold a bunch of the special heads with the extra 10 MM hole and usually made a custom bolt and included it with them.
If you have the new NE-r, I guess converting back to the manual compression release system would be a workable option.
Have fun,
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