Is this new kit going to be used in conjunction with the GP460?
Yes it is.
Methinks friction drive can tame the powerful 460 engine without breaking parts like other experimenters using GEBE, Staton chain drive and Scooterguy's chain drive. It's probably the least efficient but the simplest and least likely to self-destruct.
The engine channel can easily be strengthened with 3/8" allthread and four nuts. Three braces positioned front, middle and rear makes for a superstrong housing. An extra pair of struts positioned midship would also help, as well as another front U-bracket bolted onto the seatpost.
vegaspaddy, remove the bearing off that fat friction roller. Lay the engine channel on its back and position the roller. Now push each bearing into the channel from the outside. When you do this both bearings will begin to slip onto the roller.
Now get a large C-clamp and press the bearings into place.
To remove the large roller, reverse the procedure.
NOT!!!!!
Try as I might, I couldn't figure a way to remove the 1.375" or 1.5" rollers from the Staton engine channel. A machinist charged me $30 to do it.
NOWWWW if you had a BMP friction kit, the bearings are a SLIP-FIT!!! onto the engine channel. Unfortunately both vendors' bearings PRESS-FIT onto the friction roller for Staton and driveshaft for BMP.
It's the plating on the new Staton roller that makes the bearings a press-fit. On a used roller the plating wears away and the spindle becomes a SLIP-FIT onto the inner race.
Sooo, if you have your local machinist clearance the bearing holes in the Staton engine channel ANNND machine the new roller's ends, then you'll be able to install and remove your friction rollers "Quick And Easy Staton"!
If not, it's time to pay the machinist each time you decide to change rollers.
Ask me how to easily remove the clutch drum.
Then ask me how to clearance the drum spacer so the engine mounting bolts bolt on easier.
Then ask me about machining the clutch drum spacer for a 46% increase in clutch surface area.
